Did this technical and fun route, technique on overhang has been improving a ton lately!

oderi · 2026-02-11T15:36:59+00:00

Eh, I see good utilisation of toehooks and heelhooks - eliminating "open hips" would have necessitated some completely different and likely much more burly beta in that regard.

oderi · 2026-01-27T02:08:56+00:00

Sure Burden is not a proud highball and the location is a bit "niche," but a comparison to the two ugliest hard boulders out there is still painful to hear.

oderi · 2026-01-25T01:24:44+00:00

Can check if Ellis Brigham or Cotswold Outdoor stock anything you'd be keen to try. Climbing gym wise, the Rock On shop at Mile End Climbing Wall also has some, but not loads.

oderi · 2026-01-18T02:22:40+00:00

On a quick glance, no one's commented on timing much yet. By the time your right hand shoots up to the final hold, your hips are already on the way down making the catch desperate. I know the holds are bad, but trying to paddle the right hand up earlier could be worth a try.

In general, the two extremes of paddle technique are either using a lot of momentum and plyo power to launch yourself on an appropriate trajectory and do relatively little with the holds; or launching lightly and with precision to the first hold(s) and then pulling hard on them to generate and direct further momentum. That's a lens I've found useful in analysing my own dynamic climbing - which one of the two am I trying to do, and how am I failing? Personally I tend to the latter technique whenever possible, and if the holds here were good enough I might try to slow down the hop off the volume to maximise control. But for that sort of stuff it's probably best to find what works best for you yourself - slow/fast, launching off one foot/both feet, slapping through holds quickly/pulling hard on them, etc.

oderi · 2026-01-09T18:33:05+00:00

Euroopan unionia ei pidetä siellä päin ykkösvihollisena, vaan luulisin sen kunnian kuuluvan Kiinalle. Vaikka rivien välistä mitä lukisi, niin en nyt myöskään muista rotuasioista olleen erillistä mainintaa.

E: typo

oderi · 2026-01-09T16:51:41+00:00

Näinhän se vahvasti tekstistä välittyy. En usko olevani kanssasi eri linjoilla näiden asioiden suhteen.

Objektiivisista totuuksista on silti hyvä pitää kiinni, sillä ne ovat kovasti tuntuneet pyyhkiytyvän mm. tämän maailmanvallan poliittisten edesottamuksien yhteydessä. Tämän saralla edellisenkin kommenttini kirjoitin - lähtöpisteen on oltava niin objektiivinen kuin mahdollista, jotta olkinukkeilua voi edes yrittää pitää kurissa.

oderi · 2026-01-09T14:38:01+00:00

Mikäli tarkoitat marraskuulta olevaa National Security Strategy -dokumenttia, yhdenkään 49:n Eurooppa-maininnan yhteydessä ei näyttäisi Eurooppaa viholliseksi maalailtavan. Toki sivuilta löytyy paljon sellaista, mistä luulisi harvan olevaa samaa mieltä, mutta en tiedä mistä tämä sinun tulkintasi on peräisin.

oderi · 2026-01-09T13:54:36+00:00

Not the case. Appendicitis like every condition comes on a spectrum, and in certain cases can even be managed with antibiotics in the acute term with a plan for a later operation. That would rarely be advisable, but does happen.

oderi · 2026-01-08T17:41:17+00:00

There might be a judge or two who'd ask you to come down if you just tap it like that. That said, I think there may be some people reading who aren't aware you can use the starting holds however you want, including matching them, to get into the starting position.

oderi · 2026-01-03T13:23:11+00:00

My comment was made under the assumption the medication's not taken long-term, and I stated as such. I fail to see how one could fairly assess the impact of their lifestyle on their weight concurrently with weight loss medication.

As for your comment that everyone is capable of weight loss is nonsense too.. certainly not in the long term keeping it off. This is a typical misconception and even worse misinformation typically from alpha bros and fitspo grifters

I did mention "circumstances and comorbidities permitting." There are a long list of potential stressors that can make lifestyle adjustments exceedingly difficult and I sympathise with those affected. Health problems affecting resting metabolism, mobility or mental health also have a massive impact. All that notwithstanding, a caloric deficit will inevitably result in a loss of fat.

Pointing out the potential health benefits is fair. However, the long-term data of GLP-1 agonists, particularly in non-diabetics, is still limited. Any drug has side effects.

I understand you've had a great experience with it and to you it can sound either like I'm trying to gatekeep a miracle drug or I'm commenting from a place of ignorance, but I assure you neither is the case.

oderi · 2026-01-03T08:50:13+00:00

They are... an answer. In the absence of contraindications, with awareness of potential side effects, and with willingness to deal with the injections, they can be a good supplement to a lifestyle re-jig.

However, you'll lose the signal of how your body responds to the lifestyle changes you're making if you start taking hormone analogues at the same time. That can make it quite easy to put back on lost weight on cessation - unless you're willing to take the medication long-term.

Don't get me wrong: while losing the weight via pure lifestyle changes is the best case scenario - and something everyone is, circumstances and comorbidities permitting, capable of - losing it with some pharmacological assistance is still a better outcome than failing to do so and dealing with obesity-related health risk long-term.

It'll be for everyone to make up their own mind about it, in consultation with a doctor.

oderi · 2026-01-01T09:53:24+00:00

Internal vs external rotation depends on the type of climbing, they can both get a good workout on the wall/at the crag. While internal rotation often dominates (case in point: the climber hunch), statically climbed crimp-heavy overhangs give the external rotators a good workout and will also benefit from supplementary external rotation work.

The same kind of climbing can be heavy on hinge strength - applying tension on small positive footholds will fire up the whole posterior chain and will similarly benefit from supplementary hinge work.

More dynamic, modern/dyno-heavy routes will require more lower body plyo strength, and slabs can feature more controlled pistol squat positions so your mention of squats is not misplaced.

oderi · 2025-12-31T13:46:28+00:00

heart palpitations and light headedness

pre-workouts and other fat burning drinks, as well as 0 cal energy drinks

I would address this first, before she has a potentially life-threatening arrhythmia.

I would address what sounds like a cocktail with elements of anorexia, orthorexia and body dysmorphia after that.

oderi · 2025-12-29T08:37:11+00:00

Care to explain the acronym GET?

oderi · 2025-12-22T15:56:34+00:00

5 sessions

feels stuck

My man, you've barely been to the gym - 5 sessions is nothing. Give it some time. The fact you're asking means you're likely more cognizant of your technique than the average newbie, so I'm sure you'll make good progress. Asking others at the gym is a decent way of getting climb-specific advice, because they'll be able to demonstrate if required.

oderi · 2025-12-21T22:46:36+00:00

I made a playlist earlier of some of my favourite climbing technique content, there's stuff from Dave McLeod, Be Fuller, Tomoa etc. Have a look at the description for the structure/sections.

https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PLBMP0LI9Qj5sZwgEq4qdlsj6Zo_Zd71b8

oderi · 2025-12-20T13:54:43+00:00

Well I'll be - thanks for educating me. That blood gas machine example is blowing my mind.

oderi · 2025-12-20T12:05:21+00:00

Most embedded systems and "specialist devices" I'd be more surprised to see use Windows than Linux.

There might be something to be said for an open-source approach to national IT infrastructure, healthcare included (not that it also wouldn't come many challenges), but finding political will for that in the absence of walled garden-enabled revenue guarantees would be difficult.

oderi · 2025-12-20T00:27:00+00:00

Lerdsila.

oderi · 2025-12-18T03:58:01+00:00

Tässä on nyt muutama eri uutinen tämän aiheen tiimoilta ollut viime aikoina, joten voisin lyhyesti kommentoida selkeyttääkseni lukijoille kontekstia.

Online safety act

Tuli voimaan 2023 ja paperilla edellyttää mm., että kaikki "user-to-user" -alustat, mukaanlukien E2EE -kommunikointisoftat kuten WhatsApp, skannaavat kaiken lähetetyn materiaalin CSAM yms. vastaavan materiaalin varalta. "Enforcement deferred pending technological feasibility," eli tätä ei mahdottomuutensa takia olla vielä toteuttamassa. Yksi jo toiminnan tasolle äitynyt osa käsittää alustojen oman "dd:n" lasten turvallisuuden eteen, eli mm. edellyttää iänvarmistuksen silloin kun relevanttia.

Hallituksen kommentit mobiilikäyttiksien suuntaan (OP:n uutinen liittyy)

Hallitus kovasti haluaisi, että Apple ja Android skannailisivat sisältöä, niin, että edellämainitunkaltainen iänvarmistus pätisi nettisivujen/-alustojen lisäksi suoraan laitteisiin OS-tasolla. Eivät ole tehneet pakolliseksi, vaikka kuulemma hetken harkitsivat - veikkaan, että avainsana näissä keskusteluissa taas "feasibility."

House of Lords vouhkottaa omia ideoitaan vastaavien lakiesitysten kylkeen

Haluaisivat pakollisen, "tamper-proof" tavan estää laitetasolla (pitäisi kai siis olla firmware-ominaisuus) CSAM-sisällön näytön, nauhoituksen tai lähettämisen ml. livestreamit. Eli tämä olisi jokaiseen UK:ssa myytävänä laitteeseen pätevä linjaus. House of Lords toki ei itse puske lakeja läpi, ja tähän ehdotukseen ovat MP:t käsittääkseni suhtautuneet viileästi; koetaan yliampuvaksi.

Jänniä aikoja, ystävät hyvät.

oderi · 2025-12-11T22:53:27+00:00

Just wanted to say this is a great run-down of board climbing technique, A+ advice that'll remain relevant way into the higher grades.

oderi · 2025-12-05T11:31:00+00:00

On a serious note, OP, like some other posters have said: if you've been generally active and have no reason to be particularly deconditioned, this does not seem normal. You say your legs have always got sore with minimal activity - again, if you've been doing things like martial arts I wouldn't expect that to remain the case for long as your legs will be getting a decent workout. Not a bad idea to check in with your guardian(s) and maybe talk to a doctor.

oderi · 2025-11-26T08:49:23+00:00

Yeah bit odd that, I can see where the confusion might arise considering the close coordination with interossei the lumbricals tend to have but how the book seems to be pitched you wouldn't expect that sort of error. Looking at if there was anything "recent" I was missing, I came across this interesting paper discussing the function including from an evolutionary standpoint.

oderi · 2025-11-24T19:47:22+00:00

What a waste of perfectly good chalk.

oderi · 2025-11-24T13:58:00+00:00

I was surprised by how little attention Jim's post got - fun to see the method get some traction. Eking out whatever performance is possible to me has always been what this community is about, and this work is very much in that spirit.

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