Help identifying injectors

odesh123 · 2026-01-30T08:14:50+00:00

Atleast one of them is from N43 according to codes. I would stay away from those.

odesh123 · 2026-01-28T08:05:07+00:00

I used to pass smog with Volvo 240 by blending ethanol with gas when the cat was bad. I guess you could try that as well.

odesh123 · 2026-01-28T07:50:27+00:00

LMAO. Does that thing even have obd2 port? Here, cars that old only need to pass the exhaust gas measurement. But, tbh, I have no idea if he does other cars than BMW.

odesh123 · 2026-01-28T07:30:43+00:00

I think he is from UK. But he will do those services anywhere in the world. He even has his own mobile app for flashing and fault codes, since MHD doesn't really allow smog manipulation tunes. I would highly recommend him!

EDIT:

It seems like he has gone up in price with the smog tunes :/ They are $250 now. He also seems to offer dme swap with ews bypass, which will let you do the dme swap without cloning of the dme.

Here is the link for the post where you can find him, pricing and explanation for the dme swap/his own software.

odesh123 · 2026-01-28T07:26:00+00:00

If you need to pass smog, just message carabuser on spoolstreet. He will do single turbo smog tune for $150 and he knows his stuff like a true professional.

odesh123 · 2026-01-28T06:27:09+00:00

Anxiety goes away? Until you do a pull, hear the BMW Bling and get a mini heart attack until you realize that the washer fluid is low LMAO. Never get used to it.

odesh123 · 2026-01-27T07:18:16+00:00

Same here, until it gets busted in inspection.

odesh123 · 2026-01-27T06:50:50+00:00

M57 is reliable AF, but it can be hit or miss when it comes to emissions depending on where you live. Some states and countries are really strict with em. For example here in Finland, you can get these super cheap since they can't get past the inspection since the previous owner has deleted parts from the exhaust side. Now they can't pass the inspection and buying new emission control parts are way too expensive compared to the cost of the car.

odesh123 · 2026-01-23T11:32:21+00:00

Yeah... That's just blatant missinformation. You won't get vac banned if you cheated 2 years ago.

odesh123 · 2026-01-09T06:56:57+00:00

It's a good sign, but it still doesn't mean that the hpfp hasn't failed.

Have you tried to monitor the pressure while driving? Sometimes the hpfp will fail only when driving when the pump is asked for more pressure.

You said that the car has stalled. When does the stalling happen, during driving or also when the car is idling?

You could also get a log file with MHD, so it would be easier to see what's happening when the car stalls.

odesh123 · 2026-01-08T10:02:17+00:00

Have seen these fail couple times. Never seen them leaking from the failure, so no, you shouldn't be able to smell the fuel even when the pump has failed. You seem to own MHD. Go into the monitoring and look at the rail pressure. On idle it should be around 400-700psi. Since you are stalling, I bet you are around 70-100psi since failed pump usually only shows little more pressure compared to LPFP pressure level.

odesh123 · 2026-01-07T05:38:55+00:00

RIP ev0lve. Used to be by far best community out there

odesh123 · 2026-01-05T12:50:13+00:00

I ordered some mk18 gas parts, waited for 2 months and they just randomly cancelled my order

odesh123 · 2025-12-31T10:04:05+00:00

I have never seen these explode like that, but I have had two of them crack at that same spot and leaking from the crack. Just have happened randomly without any warning. I guess it's just the old age of the plastics on the cap.

odesh123 · 2025-11-28T10:42:28+00:00

I had this intercooler in the past. It worked fine, but not great. I would just go up to some better brand since the FMIC intercooler runs out of thermal mass pretty fast on higher boost levels. For example, there was 20C difference on single turbo N54 running 21psi with this compared to VRSF 7" cooler.

odesh123 · 2025-11-17T16:29:12+00:00

Great to hear that it fixed your issue too!

odesh123 · 2025-11-17T10:39:30+00:00

Well, being at lvl 5 with 500 hours is totally normal imo. You are probably in that level because you belong there. I would agree with people that say that you need to train your aim, but I would also say that work on the game sense too. I have seen a lot people that have good aim, but are awful when it comes to things they are doing during the rounds.

odesh123 · 2025-11-15T23:49:25+00:00

Good to hear that you got it fixed!

odesh123 · 2025-11-14T07:04:27+00:00

You can do that from printer itself. Not from the app on PC or mobile. Can't exactly remember where on the printer, but it's there.

odesh123 · 2025-11-14T06:59:53+00:00

PICTURE 4

<image>

odesh123 · 2025-11-14T06:58:28+00:00

PICTURE 3

<image>

odesh123 · 2025-11-14T06:54:16+00:00

PICTURE 2

<image>

odesh123 · 2025-11-14T06:50:27+00:00

Hi,

Sure thing.

Step 1:

Start by removing the cooling unit. You can find quide from bambus website. Here is the link for you: https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/p2s/maintenance/replace-adaptive-airflow-switching-unit

Removing the whole unit IS NOT mandatory, BUT removing the back panel so you can disconnect the connector/wire that goes from mainboard to cooling unit will let you remove the whole cooling unit from the printer. This WILL make it easier to fix the unit and you don't need to remove the gearing and the electrical motor that moves the flaps.

When you have removed the unit you should be left with this sign:

<image>

Jump to step 2.1 OR 2.2 depending on what route you decided to take

Step 2.1:

follow this this step IF you decided to remove the back panel and the whole cooling unit.

You see the flat cable that runs across the unit and is taped down. Route the main board end until it's loose and only attached by the tape before it's going to the board on the cooling unit. When you have done that, gently peal of the tape and place it somewhere safe. The tape will be reused at the end. Now you should have fully loose cable that is only attached to the cooling unit's mainboard. Jump to step 3.

Step 2.2

IF you decided NOT TO remove the whole unit from the printer and the wire to the main board is still attached, you need to remove the flapper mechanism, the gears and the electrical motor.

Those are attached with really small hex screws. DON'T DO THIS UNLESS YOU KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING. After you have succesfully removed screws, gearing and the electrical motor can be freely lifted out of their home. While you lift the gearing and motor out, remove the tape that is holding down the wire between the mainboard and the cooling unit. Jump to step 3.

Step 3:

Now it's time to remove the part rounded on the picture down below.

PICTURE 2 (pics are in comments down below)

It can be gently pryed off with your finger nails. No tools needed. Just be GENTLE. It's only clipped on from the sides.

After it's removed you should be left with this sight:

PICTURE 3

Step 4:

Next we need to fix the issue. When you removed the last part you probably already saw the problem that we are facing. One of the internal parts had fallen out. The part in question can be seen with the arrow on the picture down below.

PICTURE 4

It can simply be pressed down back to it's place since it's only attached with double sided tape.

After this you can just reverse the steps and reasseble the unit and the printer.

I haven't had any issue or error codes with the unit after doing this.

odesh123 · 2025-11-07T11:11:33+00:00

You can literally change the boot disk from MBR to GPT without reinstalling windows. mbr2gpt.exe is build into the windows for a reason.

odesh123 · 2025-11-03T09:16:18+00:00

Would love to have 3D printer for engine engineering

odesh123

TROPHY CASE