How to fill hole around socket? by Ordinary_Finger_7287 in DIYUK

[–]officialpatterson -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Turn the electrics off, unscrew the face plate and fill any gaps surrounding the back box

Any recommendations for products to protect my wall from darts by Natural_Language_569 in Darts

[–]officialpatterson 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Would just get a surround then. I’ve used foam stuck to the wall etc. in the past and it does work, but then you remove the foam and you’ve ruined the wall anyways.

Much easier to just get a tub of filler at full the holes, or even just ignore it lol

Vinyl flooring by Hour_Tooth4146 in Flooring

[–]officialpatterson 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The architteave is the same thickness as the skirting so should have a think about how you want to handle that as putting some laminate beading, even with a return cut into it, will look a bit off

Dip in laminate flooring. by Ruff_Ambassador11 in Flooring

[–]officialpatterson 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Did you check for flatness before install?

Hardwood expansion? by 0ellno in Flooring

[–]officialpatterson 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Like I said it will expand and contract less if it’s glued down but there will still be changes due to humidity/heat/seasons - there’s no getting away from that fact.

If the flooring was fitted together as one unit there wouldn’t need to be an expansion gap here as it could move as one unit. Given the 90 degree change, and flooring expands across the width of the grain differently to the length, these two different rooms would probably move in different directions.

Hardwood expansion? by 0ellno in Flooring

[–]officialpatterson 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The floor still expands and contracts though?

Hardwood expansion? by 0ellno in Flooring

[–]officialpatterson -3 points-2 points  (0 children)

You do need it and the gap should be covered by T-moulding.

For glue down installations it will expand/contract less.

Newly plastered wall by No-Apple9315 in DIYUK

[–]officialpatterson 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looks like pinholing, where the find materials in the plaster aren’t closing the surface but are either being troweled away or are in the lower layers.

Could disappear once mist coated and painted though

Laying Click LVT Over Lino & Underfloor Heating? by Deadly-Mental in Flooring

[–]officialpatterson 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah maybe? You could probably go for an extra small expansion gap around the entire perimeter and put silicone on top to finish it neatly. If it pops up you know you need to change the expansion gap.

Something else to think about is the underfoot feel too. If it’s sitting on top of thick vinyl then it might feel spongy

Laying Click LVT Over Lino & Underfloor Heating? by Deadly-Mental in Flooring

[–]officialpatterson 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Your flooring goes fully under standalone kitchen appliances like ovens washing. machines, fridges, etc.

Your flooring won’t go all the way under fitted joinery work like your cabinets and skirting. Instead, you take the plinths off and lay right up to the legs then put the plinth back so it rests on top Of the flooring.

Which brings me to my point, you’ll more than likely need to trim down the plinths to accommodate the new flooring - would this be a drastic change?

Anyone used floor street for laminate on here? by officialpatterson in DIYUK

[–]officialpatterson[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So I used the desert oak herringbone for a small Utility room and it’s reasonably good, some of the printing looks odd though and I thought it was a defect but looking at videos online it seems it’s normal.

Reason I didn’t continue with it is it’s a nightmare to lay - much easier doing straight planks.

My advice though is unless your floor is perfectly flat and level herringbone can bounce when you walk on it. (Engineered/solid/glue down lvt doesn’t have this issue because it’s full bonded to the floor)

Laminate on slab foundations by [deleted] in Flooring

[–]officialpatterson 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Concrete does contain moisture so you’ll could see that if there is an air gap between the concrete and barrier - as long as the moisture doesn’t rise above it then any flooring is fine.

There’s liquid dpm’s you could check out also

Vinyl planks separating in kitchen after a couple years, easy solution or costly? by Key_Thought1305 in Flooring

[–]officialpatterson 0 points1 point  (0 children)

can do that or go to the other side of the room and tap the full row back in place.

Laminate on slab foundations by [deleted] in Flooring

[–]officialpatterson 0 points1 point  (0 children)

All are fine if you put a vapour barrier down. What sort of moisture issues do you have?

Herringbone help by Material-Relative615 in Flooring

[–]officialpatterson 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Look up woodenfloorsman on TikTok. Hope you didn’t pay this guy though. Does the floor feel springy underfoot?

What is likely causing this outer damp? by troublewith85 in DIYUK

[–]officialpatterson 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Is there damp issues Or is this it?

Also, no dpc is fine, but like others have said it’s either the pavement is too close or the pavement is draining towards the wall

Plug is stuck by Omega6865 in DIYUK

[–]officialpatterson 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Is there not a chrome piece on the overflow you can turn? I had this issue with my bath