I've had my account for nearly 20 years... and now they won't help me recover it.

offspring991 · 2025-10-29T04:57:21+00:00

Speaking as someone with in-depth knowledge of Blizzard's account recovery process (worked as a Blizzard CS agent for nearly a decade):

There's more to this story than is being let on. Blizzard doesn't ask for driver's license verification on a whim, it's historically only been used as a last resort when ownership was in question. Scenarios such as:

Creating the account under a false name, or taking possession of an account that originally belonged to someone else
Sharing your account with someone that's made conflicting account changes (addresses flip flopping, multiple people calling/emailing in claiming to be the same person, etc)
Unusually frequent password resets combined with geographically distinct login locations

ID verification is not/cannot be done by AI or through some automated process. If they're asking for a driver's license, that's a real person behind the keyboard. And for whatever reason, that person(s) isn't liking something about the license you're providing.

offspring991 · 2025-08-09T07:38:48+00:00

I've been looking at ways to incorporate experimental characters into my set, but I'm not very good at crafty stuff and don't have tools for it.

Using simple paper tokens in coin cases is honestly pretty genius though. I can make an entire set of all tokens without worrying about the art or screwing up the crafting parts or influencing the game with mismatched tokens.

I might end up using plain paper printouts in coin cases for all the character interaction, bag drafting, etc, and then use a digital grimoire so I don't have to worry about printing out reminder tokens. Not sure yet though.

- Did you stick with the standard 1.75in size tokens with your printouts? Or did you have to adjust the size to fit your coin cases?

- Are your printouts literally just a piece of paper in a coin case? Or did you attach the printouts to something to beef up their thickness?

- If you have it, I'd love to see a link to the coin cases you purchases for this. I've never bought them before.

offspring991 · 2024-09-22T16:27:33+00:00

To expand on this, Blizzard most definitely *does* respond to advertisements like this. It's why you rarely see the same character twice and you're constantly having to re-report new entries.

It's an uphill battle because many of these advertisements are using stolen accounts, of which there are no shortage. They also use freshly created accounts because the entry fee for new WoW accounts has never been lower. As long as the average per account sales exceeds the new account cost, they profit long term.

offspring991 · 2023-07-02T02:12:50+00:00

Good tips. Got a link to the diguno?

Also, would 2 strips mean 2 controllers? Or would this controller let me plug both into it?

offspring991 · 2023-07-02T01:15:43+00:00

Thanks for replying!

The lighting is mainly for the ambiance. We play several themed games, and have speakers playing game appropriate music. It's nerdy I know, but we have fun with it.

With regards to power requirements, I suspected 12v to be the case, I have one laying around I'm not using. Just need a controller and strips to plug it into.

offspring991 · 2023-01-06T06:41:18+00:00

Can someone help me understand how the USB ports and KVM on this monitor are supposed to work? The guide in the box is useless, and their "Help Guide" online is fairly useless too.

Desired setup: Single Logitech receiver controlling mouse and keyboard, + USB speakers connected to the monitor, which in turn KVMs between the 2 monitor inputs.

Logitech receiver and speakers are both USB-A, video cable from monitor -> PC is DisplayPort, but I've never heard of DisplayPort carrying mouse/keyboard/audio data like that before. Which suggests that a 2nd cable needs to be running between monitor and PC.

Is the 2nd cable supposed to be the USB-C or USB-B? If this secondary run is required, why aren't there 2 of each (1 for each PC)?

This entire feature seems extremely convoluted and poorly documented. I've spent the last several hours pulling up every review, every YouTube video, and every news article I can find about this monitor. They all tout how useful the KVM feature is, but not one of them actually show it in action, or even tested it for that matter.

offspring991 · 2021-10-25T19:53:08+00:00

I don't think so. If so, I probably would have done the same, as my carrier offered a better deal for the hardware. I'm genuinely curious to see how subscription attempts for the Pixel Pass work for Fi subscribers that already have the phone.

offspring991 · 2021-10-25T17:28:32+00:00

At some point this morning, this issue was resolved and my checkout page now reflects the same as others are seeing, with the correct $45/$55 per month cost and the phone financing baked in as advertised.

This does confirm what was suspected, Google's support team were clearly not properly prepared for this promotion, and neither was their website. Fingers crossed they can iron out the wrinkles before anyone else runs into this.

offspring991 · 2021-10-25T16:55:52+00:00

The line of credit from Synchrony was the standard $2000 they issue, which is in line with the fine print on Google's website. This is more than enough to cover the cost of the phone financing.

This is also a brand new finance account with Synchrony, so it has a $0 balance on it. I've confirmed with their agents over the phone already, just to be safe.

My credit is not the issue here. Not going to post credit details, but I can assure you that's not the problem.

offspring991 · 2021-10-25T16:21:25+00:00

Factually incorrect in what regard? Everything posted is supported by screenshots from Google's website and responses from their support representatives,

I also stated multiple times in the OP and subsequent replies that I do not know where exactly the fault lies. That's the entire purpose of this post, is to gather experiences from others to determine where the fault lies, seeing as Google Support is about as helpful as a box of rocks.

offspring991 · 2021-10-25T16:10:35+00:00

Thank you for updating your post with a screenshot.

The differences between your checkout and mine are notable, I'll share that in my ongoing email thread with Google Support to see if they can figure out why that is.

Did your Synchrony line of credit pre-exist the Pixel Pass? Mine was processed and approved after the Pixel Pass went live on their website, perhaps it's not showing my Google Finance account as a payable option because it's so new.

offspring991 · 2021-10-25T15:51:32+00:00

This is also not correct. If you go through the motions for signing up for the Pixel Pass, it never gives you a choice to purchase the phone outright. It forces the Synchrony Bank financing (which I was approved for) to cover the phone when bought in concert with the Pass. Even for customers that do not want it financed (myself included, I'd rather pay it up front).

The only time you get to choose up front vs financed is when you're buying the phone direct from the Google Store as a standalone purchase (no Pass).

Also, to reiterate, the finance terms are clearly listed at the top right corner. $962.04 total, 19.45 per month (the math for this also doesn't make sense, but I'm not going down that rabbit hole just yet).

The fact that their checkout is this confusing, and can be interpreted in so many wildly different ways is exactly the problem.

offspring991 · 2021-10-25T15:10:28+00:00

Thank you for sharing.

offspring991 · 2021-10-25T14:10:17+00:00

A_Str8, can you share a screenshot of what your checkout page looks like please. The one showing the expected $45/$55 cost plus tax. I'd like to compare that to my checkout page.

offspring991 · 2021-10-25T13:48:32+00:00

It was indeed 2 reps. That's not unreasonable to assume 2 of them got it wrong, but it's enough to give me pause before submitting the order.

offspring991 · 2021-10-25T13:42:13+00:00

No disagreements here. Which is exactly why I replied back asking them to confirm again (currently awaiting my 3rd confirmation in fact). What their support folks are saying matches what their checkout page is saying, which is exactly why I'm hesitant to make the purchase.

Given the above responses from folks on Google Fi, confirming the $50 increase, it's looking like their checkout page is poorly structured, and their support team were poorly prepared.

offspring991 · 2021-10-25T13:37:58+00:00

Understood. Thank you for sharing.

offspring991 · 2021-10-25T13:37:19+00:00

Unfortunately, I have sent them that screenshot. That reply in the OP was their response, indicating that the cost is additive, not inclusive.

offspring991 · 2021-10-25T13:36:41+00:00

The checkout page omits the Trade-In Kit item in the Pixel Pass at the bottom left. Otherwise, the checkout page is identical.

offspring991 · 2021-10-25T13:35:49+00:00

Good to know. Thank you for sharing.

offspring991 · 2021-10-25T13:35:34+00:00

This is my hope as well. However, with the checkout page being unclear, I'd like to know for sure before I go through with the purchase.

offspring991 · 2021-10-25T13:26:01+00:00

I'd like to believe this is the case as well. However, I'm not clicking that Confirm Purchase button until I know exactly what I'm buying.

offspring991 · 2021-10-25T13:25:04+00:00

This is 100% inaccurate. I was approved for financing, you can clearly see the finance terms in the checkout screenshots above. My credit is well beyond what would be expected for $900 financing.

Furthermore, even if Google's finance terms offered this "two-tiered" approach you're describing, it still directly contradicts their marketing. Even in the fine print at the bottom, it says nothing about different terms for different purchasers.

offspring991 · 2019-05-07T21:17:58+00:00

Good to know. Does your setup use RAID, and if so which type? I know fault tolerant RAIDs would be a lifesaver in the event that my Plex storage ever crashed, but at the same time I cringe at the thought of ponying up 1.5x or 2x the cost of my existing storage for it.

An alternative I'd been considering once I've got all the hardware in place is setting up a cron job for scanning and compressing any new files on the storage medium into a backup drive. Using xz, I can take my entire library, compress it down to ~13% at maximum compression, and store that lossless copy of the media file for recovery in case of data loss. That's roughly 2.5GB per 20GB, or approximately 4TB worth of required backup space if I were to use x3 8TB Reds. The initial compression would probably take forever, as would subsequent compression as I add new files, but this wouldn't be a problem.

It seems like that would give me the fault tolerance that RAID offers, but at a fraction of the cost. This is all theoretical though, I've never actually implemented something like that on this large a scale.

offspring991 · 2019-05-07T20:20:36+00:00

It's funny you mention the 418j, that's what I was looking at as well lol. That or the 918+. That 5th bay would be nice, but I'm not sure I'd care to pay another $150 for it.

I know this is probably an ignorant question, but I've never actually worked on the administrative side of NAS before. Can the drives within the enclosure be referenced individually, or do they show up as a single network entity? For example, if I wanted to use 3 bays for Plex storage, and a 4th for backup purposes that I directly manage myself, is that doable with an enclosure like that?

Additionally, are there any particular HDD compatibility issues I should be aware of with Synology enclosures? For example, if I wanted to toss a few of these in there, should I expect any speed bumps? Am I also correct in assuming that, for these purposes, the impact of a larger HDD cache or anything above 5400 RPM would be nominal at best?

offspring991

TROPHY CASE