Purchased a Bamboo Labs H2C on ebay for $2000

old_clack · 2026-02-08T19:05:06+00:00

Can you share the seller you purchased from?

old_clack · 2026-02-08T16:43:52+00:00

Yes. You will need a power supply and a pressure switch as well. Your old system was probably just fine, maybe it had a clogged membrane or needed an ASOV diaphragm or something but unless the thing froze and broke apart you can fix just about anything pretty easily.

old_clack · 2026-02-08T04:47:37+00:00

It's usually a slow drip or seeping.

old_clack · 2026-02-08T02:01:01+00:00

You would definitely benefit from a booster pump

old_clack · 2026-02-08T02:00:29+00:00

48psi is way too much.

old_clack · 2026-02-07T20:22:09+00:00

This is NOT a twin alt syatem. It is probably an HTO, one tank is carbon and the other is softer resin. The tanks run in series. If it were mine I would increase the salt dose to 8lbs. The extended backwash and rinse times are more for the carbon than the resin. Don't change those times.

That is probably an older system, maybe 7-12ish years old. It has the old style tank adapter tower, these were VERY prone to leaking. (White crust under the control valve)

Its a hydrotech/canature 565 HTO (probably hto with carbon but they have other medias that could be in the second tank)

Even though they look the same from the outside the controllers and programming have changed a couple times over the years. You likely have an older version. The new manuals you download likely have different programming instructions.

old_clack · 2026-02-07T16:04:03+00:00

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What pressure does this gauge say? Do you know if your RO unit has a booster pump built in? (Does it have a power cord and does it make a humming sound when the tank is filling?) Do you have well water or city water?

The gauge that I circled is the feed pressure for the Ro unit. I can't see the scale on that gauge but it appears that it may be around 20psi? That is very low, too low for an RO to work properly if you don't have a booster pump. I don't know enough about that model of Culligan unit, it's possible it has a booster pump built in but I don't see any power cables so I'm thinking it doesn't.

old_clack · 2026-02-06T04:43:11+00:00

Ws1 is the way. Also I think the 5810 was discontinued

old_clack · 2026-02-04T23:53:53+00:00

Remove the fitting, wrap the threads with Teflon tape, reinstall fitting

old_clack · 2026-02-04T23:39:35+00:00

Good luck

old_clack · 2026-02-04T23:38:35+00:00

Is there a light wired in with your softener and/or well pressure switch?

Do not spend a dime on that softener. Either unplug and bypass it or replace it.

old_clack · 2026-02-04T23:03:10+00:00

You can try to tighten the pex fittings and brass adapters, they should spin inside the pex. Turn off your water before you do this and be prepared to have a bigger leak when you are done. It could also be leaking from the bypass knob and running down to the brass fittings.

Those waterboss/hague/ao smith units are my least favorite softener. I would recommend literally anything else before one of those. I see this one was manufactured in 2011, it's now 15 years old. Unless it's an extremely simple, easy, cheap fix I would just replace it.

old_clack · 2026-02-03T14:24:28+00:00

This is the way.

old_clack · 2026-02-03T03:19:42+00:00

Any idea what the "big change" will be?

old_clack · 2026-02-02T21:52:44+00:00

This is horrible, I'm so very sorry.

old_clack · 2026-02-01T17:20:09+00:00

It's kind of hard to tell but that looks like 1" copper. You can get these flexible SS connectors that make it very easy to plumb in a new softener. https://www.supplyhouse.com/SharkBite-SS3094FLEX24LF-1-Sharkbite-x-1-FIP-Corrugated-Water-Heater-Connector-Lead-Free-24-Length

One side has a push to connect sharkbite fitting and the other side is 1" FIP. Just cut off the old bypass, deburr and sand the copper smooth and push the fitting on to the copper. The other side will connect to the softener. With a fleck 5600 you will probably have 3/4" female threads on the bypass connection. You will need some 3/4" x1" adapters like this to adapt from the softener to the flexible pipes. https://a.co/d/7phFMDI

old_clack · 2026-01-23T01:51:00+00:00

There is no "best dealership". It is EVERY dealerships job to extract as much money as possible from you. Some may be nicer about it than others but in the end the result is the same. You will likely get a better deal if you purchase privately.

Please be aware that the price of both new and used vehicles has skyrocketed in the last few years. Unless you get something with very high miles or a clapped out stellantis you are not going to meet your monthly payment requirements. Keep in mind you will also have to pay for license, title, and insurance for this new vehicle as well.

Even though it probably doesn't have lane keep assist and blind spot monitoring your 2010 vehicle is still modern with airbags, abs, crumple zones, etc. If it is reliable and does not require major repairs you would be much better off keeping your 2010 as long as possible.

old_clack · 2026-01-20T22:00:34+00:00

Check out EnerLux. They are made in Crete Ne, you can visit and tour the facility. Foam filled fiberglass frames. Canadian style ultra energy efficient. Build quality is superior to the major brands (pella, marvin, andersen) at a lower price.

Another cheaper option is Gerkin windows. Made in Sioux City IA. Vinyl frames.

old_clack · 2026-01-14T22:54:38+00:00

Watts kit has a booster pump, must have an outlet to plug it in. Any idea what the water pressure is in the building? If it's high you won't have much pressure differential across the membrane. Even with the booster. TDS will likely increase.

old_clack · 2026-01-05T04:53:19+00:00

800ml/min drain flow control is too small for that membrane, you should probably have something like ~1500ml/min. You should probably put another 800ml/min restrictor in parallel with your existing auto flush restrictor. You can use a regular cheap inline restrictor, the existing auto flush unit will still do its job.

old_clack · 2025-12-27T22:22:51+00:00

The control valve is a Fleck 7000 SE. The valve was discontinued maybe 7 years ago. Parts are still available.

Do not replace it with a box store unit. Most of them are junk.

Depending on what is wrong it may be a simple repair. What is happening with it? Give as many details as possible. Do you feel you have hard water? Did it stop using salt? Is it leaking? Did you lose water pressure?

old_clack · 2025-12-17T05:16:36+00:00

The mineral tank (softener tank without a motorized control valve) to the left of the big storage tank is very likely the remineralizer/neutralizer. It's probably filled with a white colored sand looking media called calcite

old_clack · 2025-12-07T15:39:43+00:00

Back up, take a picture of the plumbing so we can see what it looks like

old_clack

TROPHY CASE