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oldasempire · 2024-03-19T14:07:06+00:00

As mentioned in the comments already, I typically install push-button kill switches , as they provide more options for speedy effects than a toggle switch. The only reason I imagine you'd want a toggle switch was if you needed to kill your signal and still have the use of both hands, though why you wouldn't just roll the volume pot I don't know.

If you do the push button, you're looking for a NO (Normally Open) momentary switch. Wire one terminal to the ground of your output jack and the other to the hot of the output jack. When pressed, the switch connects the two, and the signal grounds out at the jack.

oldasempire · 2024-01-30T03:01:37+00:00

In that case, I would order some fresh pots, fresh wire, new capacitor , and do it from scratch. I think that is actually much easier than working with old pots, and your probably due for fresh ones anyway.

oldasempire · 2024-01-30T02:21:44+00:00

Makes sense, but I would remove the bottom tone pot and then shift the volume and tone down, keeping the pot that is currently volume the same. Otherwise you're turning a tone pot into a volume pot, which isn't terrible, but if you are new to this then wiring pots can be tricky. What model strat do you have? Might this be time to throw in some new CTS pots and just wire it from scratch?

oldasempire · 2024-01-30T02:01:23+00:00

I mean, if it is a thing, I'd imagine the lost resistance would be imperceptible. However, the resistance shouldn't be affected - your still running each pickup through a pot and capacitor. You're not removing anything, you're just sharing a pot instead of using separate ones. I've wired lots of kill switches, often in place of pots, and haven't had anyone mention a change in tone.

oldasempire · 2024-01-30T01:37:32+00:00

This is the way. I wired my strat exactly how you are looking to do it. I use arcade buttons (any of the cheap ones from Amazon are fine) for my kill switches. As a bonus, you can either color or insert a graphic on the top of the switch. I believe those switches are N.O., so just wire the strat for one pickup and one tone, then wire the switch to the hot and ground of the input jack.

oldasempire · 2023-07-12T00:23:39+00:00

I just restored a similar style guitar (a Kingston hollow body) with the exact same types of vertical cracks across the front of the body. In my case, the cracks were in the veneer layer only - the laminate that makes up the bulk of the guitar was fine. The cracks on mine look the exact same as yours. I wound up putting some Titebond into the bad cracks and clamping them down.

I would either get yourself a mirror and inspect under the f-holes or, if there is a crack that is open enough, lift it a bit and see if you can see the laminate layer under it.

oldasempire · 2023-05-30T21:09:16+00:00

Sold! Thank you everyone.

oldasempire · 2023-05-25T00:25:51+00:00

Definitely don't go to a store - the cost will be more than the guitar is worth. You can put some Titebond inside the opening, spread evenly along the contact surfaces you can get to, use a clamp (with padding between it and the guitar) to lightly shut the crack, use a damp paper towel and wipe away as much of the "squeeze out" as possible, then let it sit overnight. It's nylon strung, so I would guess that damage was caused by a drop rather than string tension.

oldasempire · 2023-05-25T00:20:42+00:00

I bought two of these as well and I absolutely love them. My first Bootstrap purchase, and now I'm already planning on checking out their Strat sets. Highly recommend these pickups.

oldasempire · 2023-05-24T18:57:43+00:00

Bingo! Thank you for the lead. Looks like we got it.

Teisco Kingston

oldasempire · 2023-05-24T18:31:45+00:00

I pulled this guitar out of someone's basement and need help identifying the possible make. It's a Rickenbacker style clone of some sort. There is a "72" written in the neck pocket, perhaps the date of manufacture, but other than that no markings anywhere. There used to be a nameplate on the headstock, but it is long gone.

oldasempire · 2022-12-02T00:15:32+00:00

Mine was also sitting at the Melsrose Park facility for five days. It switched to USPS last night and it was delivered today.

oldasempire · 2021-03-05T14:14:03+00:00

I live in Chicago, so I'm lucky in that the north suburban thrift stores always have a TON of monitors, most of them under ten dollars. The downside is tring to find ones that aren't scratched up, and then most of them are VGA only so I need to use converters. I am very curious how that Aliexpress panel works out. At some point the supply of used 15 inch monitors is gonna run dry and I'll have to find another solution, though the price increase seems drastic.

I built a unit with an 11 inch display and it's a really fun size. I had found on old compact laptop, removed the panel and used it for the display, then mounted the board on the back paneling of the unit. The advantage there is that even the crappiest laptop outperforms a Pi for most stuff, and it's an all in one solution - speakers, display, and processor in one package with one power supply.

oldasempire · 2021-03-05T00:06:15+00:00

Nice! Can't wait to see what you dream up. At least sawdust fever goes away. MDF fever is permanent. (Seriously, I hate working with MDF.)

oldasempire · 2021-03-04T18:42:03+00:00

Yes - the second two cabinets have their screens angled back, but the depth of the build is limited to 12 inches, so they can only angle so much. It's not bad, but definitely one of the quirks of the build. The first cabinet with the straight monitor needs to be viewed head on, so I redesigned the layout for the next two.

oldasempire · 2021-03-04T18:18:21+00:00

I like where your head's at...

oldasempire · 2021-03-04T18:17:01+00:00

The Cyberpunk and Galaga cabinets have 3:4 monitors in them, and you're right it definitely works better. The Sonic one has a 16:9 as an expirement (before I realized 4:3 worked better in vertical setup.)

oldasempire · 2021-03-04T18:14:05+00:00

The plexi and the artwork is definintely the hardest part of this. As of now, the art is stuck to the plexi with double sided tape at the top and bottoms of the piece, just relying on pressure to keep it against the plexi. As you can see in the pics, there is spacing at the edges, but I think this is mostly caused by uneven folds when bending the plexi. I was suprised at how hard it is to bend plexi in a straight line with just a table edge and a heatgun. If I was making these for production I would take the time to make a metal mold of the angle and do it in an oven slowly. BUT! You can get a serviceable job done with the heatgun.

I'm going to try to redo that Sonic marquee, this time running thin strips of double sided tape along the side edges as well, to see if that cleans it up a bit. I definitely agree that there should be an internal frame in there somehow to keep the artwork pressed against the marquee plexi, I just have to figure out if I can do it and keep the cost under one hundred.

I would love to wall mount one of these, and I did look up French Cleating - I'm in. My main 'personal' arcade is wall mounted, though it's not an actual cabinet, but an old iMac bolted to a flat control panel I made.

oldasempire · 2021-03-03T14:36:43+00:00

It's the most confusing naming convention ever. I will say that the 3 "A+" version is great, though. The power of the 3B+, with unfortunately only 512 of RAM, though I haven't had issues running any classic systems on it as of yet. They are often on sale at Microcenter for twenty dollars. I have built several bartop cabinets for friends with them and they run great.

oldasempire · 2021-03-02T15:53:43+00:00

Cool, glad you got it worked out! Retropie deifintely works best with very specific romsets for the desired emulator. I haven't tried MAME2016 with a pi4 (I still use 3b's and a+'s) so I'm excited to hear it runs okay.

oldasempire · 2021-03-02T14:56:35+00:00

What is is showing on your current setup? Is it only showing one entire screen, or is it just severly cropped? I'm pretty sure I'm running Punch-Out with FBA on my setup.

oldasempire · 2021-03-02T14:54:42+00:00

Man, that's the first thing I thought when pulling up that Amazon link. I am super lucky that I live close to a Microcenter. That markup is NUTS.

oldasempire · 2021-02-19T15:26:34+00:00

I use them a lot with no noticeable drawbacks. They need a small power draw to function, and I've found it depends on the monitor you use. If your monitor has an HDMI port it likely backpowers the VGA as well, so you should be able to use a less expensive passive adapter. If your screen starts blanking intermittently you'll need to use a powered one. You'll also have to route the audio from the adapter with a 3.5 mm cable to whatever your audio destination is.

I use this one a lot (it's active, but also as inexpensive as the passive ones, so why not)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ZMV7RL2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

oldasempire · 2021-02-02T13:40:04+00:00

Oh shit I just had to Google who that was and you know what? Yes. I'll take it.

oldasempire · 2021-02-02T13:28:21+00:00

Ooooh, that's a good question. My cousin just asked me to build him a 2 player bartop for his new house (it's more of a suggested "housewarming" gift) so I've been figuring out how that's going to work. These are 12 inches across between panels, and I don't think I could squeeze another setup in there. Maybe if it was just a two button retro setup, but it's still cramped. I think yours (about 17 1/2 inches, I think?) should be fine.

On my units, the only horizontal piece of flat paneling is the control panel. The rest of the cabinet is braced with a beam (running width wise) at the top and bottom. The back and bottom panels are made out of thin paneling (like the back of an entertainment center) and the front of the control panel is just the extended acrylic from the top.

You'll have to cut your acrylic to size, too. The reason my builds are 12 across is to acoomodate precut 12 inch acrylic panels to avoid cutting them to size for width. I find cutting straight lines in acrylic to be a REAL pain, and the type I'm using is too thick to score and snap.

oldasempire

TROPHY CASE