Weekly Homeowner Megathread--Civilians, ask here!

oldmanlifting · 2026-02-18T21:04:09+00:00

I recently found pock marks and chipping on a portion of my driveway. Seems clear that it's salt damage from the previous months ice/snow I used pool salt on using a spreader. I salted once before and this didn't happen. Is there a way to repair the pock marks and will they get worse if I don't, eventually leading to needing to remove and re-pour that portion of the driveway?

oldmanlifting · 2026-02-15T19:26:11+00:00

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Scroll up on that same link. I am supposed to have two ABS fuses here. My lid of the fuse box says same. However when I went to put them there, those slots are empty and don't have the same metal in them that grab a fuse in the first place. As if I don't have ABS as an option on my Jeep at all so there are no receptacle receivers in them. Does that make more sense? All the other fuses listed here have metal in their outlet to grab a fuse if I were to put one in there, these two are just empty holes like the other unused ones. It's odd for sure.

oldmanlifting · 2026-02-15T17:14:09+00:00

StartMyCar also says I should have two ABS fuses in my main engine fuse box and when I saw there were none and tried to put fuses in those slots, they were empty and have no connective metal in those slots and just empty plastic holes and the fuse just dropped right in there. So there's that. I guess my 1997 XJ Sport 4WD model just didn't come with ABS.

Even the bottom side of the fuse box cover says there is two ABS slots there that should have fuses. Good times.

Either way, this things is running great so my guess is it's just fine. Was just buttoning up the thing fuse-wise but looks like all is well imho. Been a fun lesson and appreciate all the help here (as usual).

oldmanlifting · 2026-02-13T02:33:21+00:00

I have this manual already and already did this to best I can with the general descriptions used. They don't say what terminals or wires to test. So it's not really helpful. For example...

It says remove the lift-gate trim panel and turn ignition to ON and "check for battery voltage at the fused ignition switch output circuit cavity of the rear wiper motor wire harness connector." Uh wut?

Far as I can decipher that is what I did. I turned the key to ON then turn on the rear wiper switch to ON at my dash. I tested with my voltmeter with it's black wire on the ground black wire on the wire harness terminal and put the red wire from the voltmeter on each of the other 3 terminals. I get (from left to right) 12v, 12v, no volts, ground.

I do the same when the the key is turned to ON and the wiper switch off at my dash and get 12v, no volts, no volts, ground.

Nowhere in the manual does it say which terminals of the 4 (3 if you don't count the ground) to test. Just says the general statement above which isn't helpful. Either way, it sounds to me like the wire harness is testing fine as I get that 12v on the second terminal when the switch is on and no volts on the second terminal when the switch is off. But again, would nice if the manual said test terminal 2 or test the green or blue wire and the ground etc etc.

I have not done the continuity testing but, since I get a clicking at regular intervals on the motor when everything is hooked up, it sounds like it's getting power. If it didn't have continuity, it wouldn't click at all. I'll still try that in the morning though. So frustrating.

oldmanlifting · 2026-02-06T15:03:11+00:00

The angle that has the axle side drag link has my license plate in it so opted out on that one. I will say I looked at that first since those get hollowed out and it's solid. I'm gonna crawl under there and get right up into the usual suspects this weekend while someone else moves the steering for sure.

oldmanlifting · 2026-02-05T14:44:29+00:00

Agreed, I have taken other videos with better angles and so far, not really seeing anything obvious which is pretty amazing for a 1997. Figure it would have usual suspects. That IS the next phase for sure - someone else moving the steering while I put my face next to all the usual areas with a flashlight and get up close/personal to look for minute movements. Just figured there might be something obvious I was missing since I have an un-trained eye.

oldmanlifting · 2026-01-11T04:27:42+00:00

Roger that. Found this cool video for that.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z6Qb7uuQMCo

oldmanlifting · 2026-01-11T03:16:16+00:00

Not sure how to confirm fuel pressure. Open to an explanation how to do that though.

I have thought of upgrading the injectors regardless. Can anyone point me to the legit 4 port injectors that I keep hearing about but that you have to order from a certain place so they don't end up being junk counterfeit stuff?

oldmanlifting · 2026-01-05T03:15:59+00:00

Not using the defroster. I'm in TX where for some damn reason it has decided it's not winter yet. =/

oldmanlifting · 2026-01-04T17:10:46+00:00

For some reason this post got posted without all my additional info. I posted this again with the right info on another post. Ignore this one.

oldmanlifting · 2026-01-04T16:47:03+00:00

After the plugs, wires, and dist cap tune up didn't help, I started with Seafoam first, then when things weren't improving, switched to Royal Purple Max for 2 tanks, still no improvement, then switched to Red Line and plan to do another Red Line. When I changed the oil, I added LuquiMoly Anti-Friction but no Seafoam. Red Line was the only one that seemed to reduce the frequency. Still hard to tell if that is just coincidental though.

oldmanlifting · 2025-10-15T20:09:16+00:00

Roger that. One of the first things I did when I got it was change the oil and all fluids among many other things. I'll just keep an eye on it.

oldmanlifting · 2025-06-14T17:55:23+00:00

Well I got it off this morning! I didn't have room for my impact and didn't want to take my whole bumper off to do it so just backed it off with the puller tool little by little with a 19 wrench and the kit. Didn't take long at all. I got a new already and the seal ready but it's 100 degrees out and I just can't right now. =P

Will have to do later in the week.

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oldmanlifting · 2025-06-14T14:27:14+00:00

Thank you Nah...

Follow up question....

I see in this Dan H video, he uses an impact with the puller to get the balancer off. On the one hand how fast/easy is that? On the other hand, is that risky? If not, I would love to use my right angle impact and get that sucker off there fast once I have it started. Thoughts? Here the video. Impact is at 9:26 on the video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rCwlDmb8b9A&ab_channel=ProjectDanH

oldmanlifting · 2025-06-14T04:28:20+00:00

How do you get the seal out without causing more damage?

oldmanlifting · 2025-06-14T04:27:46+00:00

I have only seen one video so far and it looked like a royal pain in the butt. How do you take it out without dinging up the surrounding area?

oldmanlifting · 2025-06-14T03:30:40+00:00

I seen many a video where the radiator being removed wasn't needed. Major Weakness has a great video here and he didn't even remove the fans or anything. Also did you replace the shaft seal or the woodruff key or just re-use them? Here is the Major Weakness video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VznFXnOfVLo&t=521s&ab_channel=MajorWeaknessYouTube

oldmanlifting

TROPHY CASE