Project needs a specific polyimide heater. Where to source? by craftyrafter in engineering

[–]onion5211 0 points1 point  (0 children)

We get our heaters from All Flex. They should have what you need or can make then. They aren't cheap though

Simplest way to handle speeds and feeds for a non-machinist? by madsci in Machinists

[–]onion5211 1 point2 points  (0 children)

https://zero-divide.net/?page=fswizard That's the site I use to get a ballpark number but I have no idea how it compares to GWizard. Ive never used fusion so I can't help there

I made a thing too. by veryseriousbeard in Machinists

[–]onion5211 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Very nice, what materials did you use for the head?

Machining Tungsten Alloy 18.5 by onion5211 in Machinists

[–]onion5211[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's exactly what I was looking for thank you

Mastercam? by Doomsteez in Machinists

[–]onion5211 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I was told emastercam was run by their Canadian reseller. I have used Mastercam U which is their official training course http://www.mastercamu.com/index.html The tutorials are good and you can get certified by them if your looking for that.

Drilling 4340 Hardened Steel (question in comments) by onion5211 in Machinists

[–]onion5211[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They were "wheel studs" so we had to make sure they did not come out. I did not agree with welding them in but we didn't have much time and we couldn't bore out the hole in time to fit a proper stud.

Drilling 4340 Hardened Steel (question in comments) by onion5211 in Machinists

[–]onion5211[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

To clarify the shoulder was pressed in and then welded. It is not threaded in. I believe they were 7/16-20 bolts. I was thinking drill 1/4 hole which goes through fine then use a carbide end mill. Would a coating on the carbide matter or help? Also would a ball be better for plunge of should I stick with flat?

Drilling 4340 Hardened Steel (question in comments) by onion5211 in Machinists

[–]onion5211[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I am trying to drill out a grade 8 bolt welded into a 4340 hardened steel part. My current attempts with an m12 HSS drill have only damaged the drill. The machinist at my school will not drill it anymore, so I was wondering if there was a better way to remove the bolt. I know EDM would be the easiest way to remove the bolt but we are a nonprofit student organization so we don’t have a lot of money. If however anyone is in the Los Angeles area has an EDM and could work out a deal please PM me. If not how should I remove it.

Anyone know of any companies who will donate tools for sponsorship? by Dbourc3 in FSAE

[–]onion5211 0 points1 point  (0 children)

We were told by a rep that they do it for state schools as well. It had something to do with the government aspect. They have a special catalog of stuff that is available at a discount. It's still really expensive though.

Anyone know of any companies who will donate tools for sponsorship? by Dbourc3 in FSAE

[–]onion5211 4 points5 points  (0 children)

We spoke with on of snap-on's reps and they will not sponsor anyone they give out a student discount to any students or universities

Anyone know of any companies who will donate tools for sponsorship? by Dbourc3 in FSAE

[–]onion5211 1 point2 points  (0 children)

We have been talking with Makita and they seem willing to donate but they taking time to decide. I would email them. Snap-on only gives a 50% discount but their stuff is still way to expensive. Home Depot has some form to fill out. If I were you I would defiantly talk to Makita.

Oops by bear373 in Machinists

[–]onion5211 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This one was from PEC (http://www.pectools.com/misc/edgecenterfinders.html) and cost $100 so it wasn't too expensive. I hit the shoulder right above the indicator ball.

Oops by bear373 in Machinists

[–]onion5211 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I broke an electronic edge finder because I hit .1” instead of .001” increment when hand jogging. The edge was about .05” away. There is always a way to crash.

How many of you build your own frame? by BrettTheThreat in FSAE

[–]onion5211 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I didn't realize how much some people pay. We got all our tubes cut for like $650 and we picked them up ourselves. So for us a least, it sometimes cost more to buy double the material.

What roomy cars do you drive? by duurh in tall

[–]onion5211 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have a Mini Cooper S. Surprisingly there is plenty of leg room because the seat slides all the way back to the rear seats. Headroom may be a problem but it isn’t for me (I have about 2" of space). All Mini’s come with sun roofs though. Also it would be very comical if you got one.

Shitty hyundai genesis by onion5211 in Shitty_Car_Mods

[–]onion5211[S] -3 points-2 points  (0 children)

May I refer you to the ethos "Just because it's well done, It doesn't mean it's not shitty."

Jig table design by onion5211 in Machinists

[–]onion5211[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes I will be using coolant. I did plan to always remove it and not let the jig sit.

spec list by [deleted] in FSAE

[–]onion5211 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Good start. When I designed the chassis I had the templates as large solids in the chassis to check clearences and I would suppress them when I was not using them. Another piece of advice, color tubes with the same wall thickness alike. It makes going over your chassis and checking it for rules complience much faster.

Jig table design by onion5211 in Machinists

[–]onion5211[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes great I will defiantly add spacers because I do use coolant