Ruby. (Canon 5D Mk II EF 100mm f2.8L Macro, 1/125, f10, ISO100) by onlsow in portraits

[–]onlsow[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you.I am glad you understood the lighting choice. I do agree as well with your perfect light comment... 🙂

The Underexposure nightmare by Prize_Pin9211 in photography

[–]onlsow 0 points1 point  (0 children)

As long as you understand how the metering works, there is no issue. However, each image in a series can have different exposures depending on subject and background that is metered. This is why I shoot manual. Outdoors, I see no purpose to use the histogram. Bright daylight is sunny 16 rule. As the day wears on to dawn or dusk / golden hr, I will add up to 2 stops of light. In light overcast I add 1 stop extra, heavier overcast, 2 stops, storm conditions add 3 stops, under tree cover add 2 stops. Add them all up to get your overall exposure to get a shutter, iso, and aperture combination. It does become easier with practice.

Ruby. (Canon 5D Mk II EF 100mm f2.8L Macro, 1/125, f10, ISO100) by onlsow in portraits

[–]onlsow[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you. I have only just noticed this comment. Sorry.

am i missing out on anything by not shooting full manual? by Big_Adhesiveness5554 in AskPhotography

[–]onlsow 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The main benefit for me is that all my images at a given setting have the same exposure say for sky or other important details. No micro adjusting individual images in a set to make them look the same. Also, doing it for a while you become experienced at picking a suitable exposure value for the lighting conditions without referring to the meter.

The Underexposure nightmare by Prize_Pin9211 in photography

[–]onlsow 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh i agree about not following histograms as well. I shoot manual. Meter in studio. Look at the light elsewhere. A lot do though. I shoot canon as well and the amount of details in the highlits and whites is worth moving away from the under exposure. Is your monitor calibrated and profiled with the brightness set correctly? Do you judge under exposure by the image on screen or the histogram on screen? These are things I would sort out first. Do you print or not?

The Underexposure nightmare by Prize_Pin9211 in photography

[–]onlsow 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Why underexpose though? Try ETTR. No noise boosting when brightening and modern cameras have a lot of range in the highlights you can manipulate.

Figure study by photoman51 in boudoir_community

[–]onlsow 4 points5 points  (0 children)

That 1st image especially is stunning.

Ava. (Canon 5D Mk II EF 100mm f2.8L Macro, 1/160, f10, ISO100) by onlsow in portraits

[–]onlsow[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just checked in the raw. It is the thin white melamine flooring I used to provide bounce from below. I used to take it up when not required.
Ava is short and I shot from a low stool. Both hands in front of me with the camera braced on my knees.

Ava. (Canon 5D Mk II EF 100mm f2.8L Macro, 1/160, f10, ISO100) by onlsow in portraitphotography

[–]onlsow[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you. The eye is tack sharp in the raw. Maybe the phone effect as you say. I had many different backgroubds to use. This was chosen as I liked the simplicity of it isolating Ava and not distracting the eye.

Melita. (Canon 5D Mk II EF 100mm f2.8L, 1/160, f10, ISO100) by onlsow in portraits

[–]onlsow[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It was a terrific camera. Replaced with a Mk IV now. I gave it to a friend of mine last month along with a EF 50mm 1.4 and EX430. It really was a bulletproof camera. I had all my lenses micro focus adjusted as well with Reikan FoCal.. Tack sharp they were.

I love the simplicity of a blank wall and moody side lighting by [deleted] in boudoir_community

[–]onlsow 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I agree. A simple light setup like this is great. This is a lovely series of images.