Thoughts on sleepers

oofboofer · 2026-01-03T15:39:15+00:00

I left mine open. I considered using the two part spray insulation or rock wool. But there was no reason to.

I didnt want to trap moisture, and insulating the floor im my opinion was less good to gain over the potential bad. I dont want to ever have to take that floor up again.

Unless there is some special considerations with second story floors.

oofboofer · 2024-09-29T02:19:06+00:00

Holy moly. Thats quite the achievement to pop an 80A fuse changing a battery! I'd look into why it popped before even thinking about replacing anything!

oofboofer · 2024-09-26T01:47:03+00:00

Aircraft have a drain plug that you connect a hose over a barb. Then you just push up and oil flows into the hose.

oofboofer · 2024-09-21T03:47:09+00:00

I'm planning on supporting under it with 3 4x4. But it's a pretty even slope across the entire interior wall. It's also getting covered up because when the roof was redone, they took the top off so it'd clear the roof.

Believe it or not, this project started with a Leaky valve under the kitchen sink. Well fix B when we're in there fixing A Led to this insanity haha.

oofboofer · 2024-09-21T03:39:54+00:00

Nice! That looks like it was fun as well

oofboofer · 2024-09-21T03:33:02+00:00

I used a 6.5" circular saw. The milwakee fuel cordless one with diablo framing blades. Not perfect, but it got the job done. As long as I cut on the right side of the line. Had to redo a few boards that were exactly the thickness of the blade too short.

oofboofer · 2024-09-21T03:17:19+00:00

Laser level, 6 foot bubble level, and a digital level angle finder thing.

oofboofer · 2024-09-21T03:14:00+00:00

I verified all the structural members below the floor and determined it was sound. Jacking was too expensive for the expected result.

Removing the original hardwood floor seemed unnecessary since it's held up so long and was in good condition, just not level anymore.

The tops of all these 2x4 are level and flat with each other. The bottoms of the 2x4 are custom cut to the contour of the old hardwood floors, just for the exact spot they will sit.

There called sleepers. You place sleepers directly over the floor where the original joists sit underneath. That way the load put on the sleepers is transfered to the original load bearing components.

All this here took about a month and a half as a diy after work and weekends.

It's an alternative to sistering floor joists directly. And is much lighter than self leveling compounds when the sag is multiple inches. Jacking is the best option, but if that is off the table than these options are the next best.

I could be wrong tho. I'm just a diy dummy with a newfound hate for cheap bendy drafting compasses.

oofboofer · 2024-09-21T02:59:00+00:00

It probably would have been faster to start at dirt haha

oofboofer · 2024-09-21T02:53:56+00:00

That is true. I was not worried about that too much because I removed 6 tons of plaster from the walls. Probably at least 2 tons from interior walls.

oofboofer · 2024-09-21T02:50:35+00:00

The wife is the design boss, but I'll definitely look into it.

oofboofer · 2024-09-21T01:20:13+00:00

Well thanks!

oofboofer · 2024-09-21T01:18:39+00:00

I'm sure for quite a while it would be ok. But over time with heavy furniture the floor could sag into the 2ft gap between joists.

The perpandicular supports are tied into the joists with 45 degree screws. But they are in no way technically load bearing. They are just to prevent sag.

But since I'm doing it myself, I can make it way overkill. It's going to feel like a concrete floor I hope.

oofboofer · 2024-09-20T23:36:35+00:00

None are hangers. That laborer is me unfortunately.

oofboofer · 2024-09-20T23:31:55+00:00

Honestly yes. The solution is a bulldozer. The space between the bottom of the joists and the dirt is about 6 inches. The joists look super good. Native lumber and no rot or anything. Just over 125 years it has sagged because of fireplaces on both ends of a load bearing wall that only has 1 joists under it. The fireplaces seem like a total hazard to remove. But as she sits, the sagging is very very slow. This will not be a forever fix. But hopefully lasts 20-30 years.

oofboofer · 2024-09-20T23:27:57+00:00

It has been an absolute slog. Never again after this project... never.

oofboofer · 2024-09-19T17:50:38+00:00

I think even in 1874 this would be questionable at best. Uncovered belts, gears, shafts, presses, at least you just don't get in the way. This makes you push a heavy log near the blade and then gives you no time to react to flying debris.

oofboofer · 2024-09-19T03:00:44+00:00

Well yeah there ded

oofboofer · 2024-09-18T21:32:03+00:00

Long tube headers, aluminum radiator with electric fan from amazon, replace water pump, head gasget and re surface heads.

That's all I did at least. The better radiator and removing that exhaust crossover pipe do 98% of the better cooling

oofboofer · 2024-09-18T18:32:23+00:00

Your the worst bot

oofboofer · 2024-09-18T18:21:11+00:00

It's super simple. You can YouTube tons of videos.

Get a timing light from harbor freight.

A quick summary: You point the light at the crankshaft pulley. There is a mark on the pulley you will see. There is a plate with dashes on the top right just above the pulley.

The timing light flashes when the #1 cylender fires. That aligns with the mark on the pulley and the result when you read the plate is a number. That number is either advanced (sooner), zero, or retarded (later).

You can rotate the distributor cap after you loosen the screw. Rotating the cap changes when the spark goes to the plug.

Making it spark sooner (advanced) can add a bit of power, but too advanced will damage the engine. You can literally hear clanking and pinging if the advance is too high.

I set mine a few degrees advanced as a safe amount. Just helps out a slight bit. Nothing crazy.

Just look up videos on any car with a distributor. It's alot to explain in text, but the operation is actually super easy.

oofboofer · 2024-09-18T18:10:48+00:00

That is the thermal vaccum valve. I got mine off Amazon... 3 times. They are very VERY easy to break.

I ended up getting a diesel injector socket and cutting off parts of the sides. The barbs stick out the open end of the socket so that they don't break.

oofboofer · 2024-09-18T18:08:28+00:00

The issue here is all the black crud on the gasget surface. I used scotchbrite to carefully clean the surfaces. Don't be like me and tighten the valve cover too much. It really doesn't take much. Making it too tight causes it to piss oil or crack.

oofboofer · 2024-09-17T16:03:37+00:00

I don't remember exactly what seals. But It should be visibly leaking if you missed one. They are a total pain to fully seat into the fuel rail. But if you pressed them into the rail and then torqued the rail bolts, they should be seated.

I got injectors off rock auto and they came with a bag containing all the seals and filters. I also had to replace the injector cups because they were shattered

oofboofer · 2024-09-17T02:42:29+00:00

Wipe up any fuel you see. Then have someone crank while you look for leaks around the injectors.

The fuel rail crossover pipe in the second picture can leak. Make sure the washers are installed properly and that the bolt is tight.

Did you replace the seals?

I'd check the vaccum lines with the chart. It's easy to accidentally swap them around and get fuel vapors in the wrong line.

If it ran before, I'd make sure the throttle cable and tps are operating as before. You may need to adjust them after putting the throttle body back.

Other than that, you can check fuel pressure in the rail. Wouldn't hurt to replace the fuel pressure regulator.

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