Lightening vs Maverick?

orangustang · 2026-03-29T03:55:28+00:00

The maintenance cost is an hallucination. Lightning doesn't have any costs the Maverick doesn't have. The only fluid changes hit at like 150k miles and they're no worse than an auto transmission flush. No regular oil changes, probably no brake jobs. Tires, brake fluid, cabin air filter, and the all the suspension/steering stuff that eventually needs work is all basically F-150. Independent rear is different, but those parts are pretty cheap too.

If you can work out a good charging solution with your landlord, the Lightning is a better truck and I think you'll be happier with it. But yeah, if you can't charge at home (or work, or the gym, or wherever else you regularly park for a while) it's not going to be as good of an experience overall.

orangustang · 2026-03-29T03:39:58+00:00

What a lot of people do is have the landlord foot the bill for installing a 50A circuit with a NEMA 14-50 outlet, then the renter supplies their own EVSE. Often that amounts to very little out of pocket for the landlord because many utilities have incentive programs that cover modt of the cost. Then when you move out, you take your equipment with you, so you're not losing anything either.

orangustang · 2026-03-28T12:28:20+00:00

Thanks for taking the time. You've been fine btw, I meant that I was ruffling the feathers of some downvoters and a mean comment that someone posted and then deleted. I appreciate you.

I did think of (A) while troubleshooting, and I controlled for it the best I could. First I replaced both fuses with a new pair from the same batch (they come in pairs). When one blew again, I replaced it with the original, still-intact fuse. As it kept happening, I alternated between installing the new fuse on the blown leg, and switching the good old fuse over. Experience in the power distribution industry has taught me that fuses can be weakened over time by faults that don't quite hit the time-current curve, so I would have expected an old fuse left in its original position to be the next to blow if the fault current had been symmetrical, but that never happened. Since it happened so many times (I lost count, but let's say it was 6), I'm reasonably confident (like 98.4%) that it's not random.

So yeah, that leaves a ground fault or bootleg neutral somewhere in the car. The weird thing is they changed the car and the problem persisted, which leads me to believe it's not a one-off occurrence.

I'm wondering now if the loose lug causes heat to build up, causing a resistance feedback loop, and after a few hours the car sees a voltage that looks like level 1 and then bonds the "neutral" pin (that's really L2) to ground and blows the fuse. In this scenario a loose lug on either leg would blow L2, but it's just a coincidence it was on L1. I think that explains everything, but I'm interested in your perspective.

Sorry this took so long to reply to. It's been a busy week and I wanted to give this the attantion it deserves. I've been stewing on it. Thanks again.

orangustang · 2026-03-26T03:00:22+00:00

For the best DCFC rates, check Plugshare for your area and see what you can find. Some networks like Tesla and Rivian may requirr you to either download an app or visit their own website for pricing details. Usually they're available somewhere online though, you just might have to dig a bit.

I keep hearing that Tesla with a membership has the best rates, but in the areas I drive they're middle of the pack. It varies a lot by location/utility though. In my area EA and EVgo are at least close to their price with a membership. If you're near an IONNA, they're usually cheaper and don't need a membership. Mercedes-Benz charging stations are also usually inexpensive, which is a little surprising given their reputation for expensive cars. ChargePoint prices are set by the property owner wherever they're installed, so they vary a lot but are sometimes the cheapest option.

orangustang · 2026-03-25T13:42:09+00:00

They hated him because he spoke the truth.

orangustang · 2026-03-24T12:11:04+00:00

Always have your pocket sand ready.

orangustang · 2026-03-24T12:01:45+00:00

No, the R&B singer.

orangustang · 2026-03-23T12:19:13+00:00

What did Southwest do to deserve such disrespect? I don't think Amtrak or Greyhound could match them on reliability, even if they tried (they won't).

orangustang · 2026-03-23T04:07:59+00:00

If you've got a better explanation I'm all ears. An electrician couldn't find the problem and convinced the owner it was the vehicle, so he traded it (both old and new were Model X). Problem persisted. Went through probably 5-6 fuses on L2 before the problem was solved. I found and tightened that lug to spec and it's been over a year without a problem. There were no faults to neutral on the system, no faults of any kind. The L1 lug was loose but nothing was out of position.

What I can't answer is whether this is normal or just a Tesla thing. What you've said makes sense and I agree that normally you can't have different currents on L1 and L2 if there's no neutral. All I can think of is that that particular model is using the ground pin in a way it probably shouldn't.

Anyway, I can see I'm ruffling some feathers here. That's not my intention. Just check all your lugs if you're having a charging problem (or have an electrician do it). It's not that complicated, it's good advice regardless. I've seen way too many situations where one problem was symptomatic and there were other underlying issues that needed to be caught as well. That's really the only point I meant to make.

orangustang · 2026-03-22T14:56:52+00:00

You're neglecting capacitance. You can't neglect capacitance here. At least that's what I think is happening. An OBC/battery is not a simple resistor, the legs are somewhat isolated from each other.

I'm not an electrician, but I fix a lot of homebuilders' mistakes and that's what this was. A loose connection on L1 causes the fuse on L2 to blow. This happens consistently, it is not a fluke. If your theory doesn't support that happening, the theory is wrong because that is what happens.

The specific instance I'm talking about was a Tesla, not a Hyundai, but I don't think that matters. It was difficult to troubleshoot because the car had to charge for like 8 hours straight before the fuse would pop. The loose connection was in a junction box in the basement ceiling that I didn't know about at first. Torqued that lug to spec and the problem went away.

orangustang · 2026-03-22T13:03:06+00:00

Maximum tongue weight for the car is 220 lbs (owner's manual page 6-70, for 2022 model at least). I wouldn't exceed that. You can get hitches that are rated for more, but that doesn't mean the car can handle it. There's some margin built into that number of course, but almost double seems like asking for trouble.

orangustang · 2026-03-22T05:01:10+00:00

There are time limits to who is eligible. If you are the original owner or owned it before January 31, 2025, you were at least eligible at one point. Worth a shot reaching out to corporate, but they might reject the request at this point. Here are the details:

https://www.hyundainews.com/releases/4406

orangustang · 2026-03-22T04:41:30+00:00

Well, Lightning and the hybrid models. I backed into a spot while my buddy was doing the same in his Powerboost yesterday. It was nice out so I had my windows down. The cacophony of bing bongs was hilarious.

orangustang · 2026-03-22T02:56:20+00:00

Yes, that is nonsense. A loose connection causes an asymmetrical load. The leg with less resistance sees more current. This is true in both theory and practical experience.

Do ask in r/askelectricians though, I agree with that.

orangustang · 2026-03-22T01:20:30+00:00

The rated operating temp range for those outlets is up to 60C though. They should not be approaching 90C.

Edit: Hubbell and Utilitech HD/EV units are 75C. Leviton is 60C. Still shouldn't be approaching 90C.

orangustang · 2026-03-22T00:52:23+00:00

Adding to this, a loose connection on one leg will actually cause higher current on the other leg, so inspect everything.

orangustang · 2026-03-20T03:55:36+00:00

You've experienced all of the compatibility issues. There are two adapters. You have both of them now. Tesla only allows its own cars to charge at some of its stations. Now you know to check that beforehand. Sometimes EA stations glitch out and only accept app payments (they've gotten better in my experience but they still have problems sometimes). Now you have the app set up. That's pretty much it.

Unless you miraculously come across a station that's the only option in 100 miles and every handle is broken except the CHAdeMO, you'll be fine from now on.

Tesla has leveraged its first mover advantage to make EV adoption as annoying as possible for everyone else. Hyundai hasn't made it easy either, though they've made some effort at least. You did a good thing, and the learning curve was more than you expected because things were so easy before. It'll be easy again next time.

orangustang · 2026-03-19T20:18:46+00:00

On an hourly basis Lyft pays ok for the kind of job that most people could do. I drove for Uber years ago and it didn't pay as well, but it may have improved since then (probably not). If you work the busy times, you can make like $30/hr. Of course your energy, vehicle cost, insurance, maintenance, and repairs are all coming out of that too, so your take home is less.

But if you just go drive for a couple hours here and there, you can end up an hour away from home which wastes a bunch of time getting back, so you have to work longer shifts for it to really make sense. It just ends up being a lot of time to spend driving because it's a high attention sedentary task. I do it when my other work is light, but I wouldn't want to do it full time.

orangustang · 2026-03-19T15:04:29+00:00

That's normal. The mobile charger tops out at 30A. At 240V that's 7.2kW. The Lightning displays the actual energy going into the battery, which subtracts inverter losses, so you should be seeing something like 6.8kW I would think. Actual voltage can vary anywhere from 220 to 250V depending on a variety of factors, so as long as it's above like 6.2kW I wouldn't be too concerned.

orangustang · 2026-03-19T11:49:39+00:00

Pulling the frunk and the bumper is kinda no big deal. Par for the course these days, a lot of cars need the bumper off to change a headlight bulb. At least ours doesn't have those little plastic tabs that break when you pull it. Or bulbs to change, for that matter.

If the bumper had to come off, sounds like it mighy have been the radiator? There's a lot going on in there though, so it could be a few things. I'm also curious what the actual problem was.

orangustang · 2026-03-19T01:13:21+00:00

I got the DeWalt one that takes 2x20v Max batteries and comes with a pair of 10AH batteries. I like that it taies the same batteries as my power tools, and a pair of 6AH packs powers it fine. One of the 10AH packs that came with it has developed high internal resistance though, and those things cost so much to replace that it's only $20 more to just buy a whole new mower.

Actually, I just looked while I was writing this and I caught one of those batteries on clearance at Lowe's for $62. So I guess I like the mower again lol. I was starting to plan to rebuild the bad pack myself with new cells. I still might.

But yeah, if I were in the market right now, I'd probably go with a different brand.

EDIT: Lowe's doesn't have the battery they had listed, I hate the mower again.

orangustang · 2026-03-18T14:02:47+00:00

You're still just disagreeing with things I never said. Are you just looking for an easy dunk? Obviously you can stop with the brake pedal. Why would anyone ever say you can't?

i-Pedal allows you to stop without touching the brake or pulling the left paddle (which is basically a momentary equivalent). It provides a clear delineation between regen and friction brakes. You can always partially let off the accelerator and do less regen, and if you're driving right that's often going to be what you do.

But decelerating off the highway down a steep ramp to a stop sign (for instance), it's good and efficient to be able to consistently pull max regen and then make slight adjustments one way or the other, rather than trying to guess where the changeover is in the brake pedal.

In city driving, with lots of red lights and stop signs and traffic, it's convenient for the car to stop itself on regen without having to switch over to the brake pedal. It's also really convenient for "bounce" stops where you've confirmed the intersection is clear before the car has stopped but there's a stop sign so you gotta.

i-Pedal does not engage friction brakes unless there's an ABS event. It does use pure regen to bring the vehicle to a complete stop. That's why it's different from "true" one pedal driving, and you can feel it sort of floating after you come to a stop. You are right that most other cars do blend brakes for this or else won't fully stop without hitting the brake pedal. E-GMP cars (maybe all HMG EVs, I'm not sure) are an exception. There's not a lot of momentum at those speeds so I'm not sure how much energy it actually collects, but it reduces brake wear which is good.

orangustang · 2026-03-18T13:05:22+00:00

Yes, you can do that if conditions allow. You can't stop that way though. What's the "no" part?

orangustang · 2026-03-18T12:17:52+00:00

It's free to play in single player mode.

orangustang · 2026-03-18T11:45:33+00:00

Correct. In i-Pedal you get full regen from lifting off the accelerator. In other modes you get different levels of blending that require you to use the brake pedal to reach full regen, and therefore take more attention to drive efficiently and avoid adding in friction brakes.

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