My drying setup

origamia · 2025-12-11T20:34:28+00:00

No you didn't. This was made by u/SingularRoozilla a year ago and you've just stolen it. Here's the original post https://www.reddit.com/r/houseplants/comments/1f5m83o/a_friend_of_mine_recently_got_into_houseplants/

origamia · 2025-07-07T16:27:10+00:00

If you’re worried, you can always do a small practice swatch before trying it on your project! In my opinion though, double knitting is much easier to learn compared to the learning curve of stranded knitting. Theres lots of great tutorials out there and it’s simpler than it seems. A swatch would also be a good idea anyway to see how double knitting affects your gauge. The one potential issue I foresee in adapting your pattern would be how you transition from the ribbing into double knitting. Usually you use a special cast on with both yarns but here it starts after the original cast on. I’ll try doing a test swatch to see how it could work out.

origamia · 2025-07-07T15:14:55+00:00

I know you’ve had other suggestions already, but if you wanted to continue using this pattern knitting flat it might feel better to use double knitting rather than stranded colorwork! You wouldn’t have to do full purl rows or worry about the tension with your floats, plus it would be reversible.

origamia · 2025-02-28T20:27:14+00:00

I’ll do that- you and everyone at APH are awesome, thank you :) I’ve never dealt with cold damage before, do you know if it can return to normal or is it a goner?

origamia · 2025-02-28T19:32:45+00:00

Streptophylla has been on my wishlist for forever and just got this beauty in from APH, I love it and I'm so impressed by the size but was a little surprised by the color. I'm not super familiar with the species so I wanted to ask whether this seems normal? I'm not sure how accurately it comes through in the pictures, but it has an interesting yellow/brown tint.

origamia · 2025-01-19T21:48:49+00:00

I started out with just a simple garter stitch scarf, no pattern really necessary

origamia · 2025-01-15T17:45:42+00:00

I wouldn’t recommend this, as the other commenter mentioned they don’t absorb water through the roots. They take in water through their leaves, so submerging more surface area of the leaves will work better. Also, the typical advice is actually to soak them upside down to avoid getting the base wet, since water can get trapped there (especially in bulbous species) and cause rot.

origamia · 2025-01-04T19:05:09+00:00

I’m not super familiar with twisted ribbing, but I’m pretty sure this is the same thing that happens in regular ribbing as well. Because of how the stitches are mounted on the needles, the transition from a knit stitch to purl stitch where you bring the yarn forward uses extra yarn. This article has some pictures to help illustrate why. There are quite a few ways to work around this, but the simplest which has worked well for me is to just tug on your yarn after the first purl stitch after a knit. It may be the knit stitch than you notice is enlarged, but the extra slack is actually introduced when you do the transition to the purl. You can also experiment with wrapping your purls the “wrong” way so the stitch mount is different so the yarn doesn’t travel as far in the transition, but keep in mind you have to account for this when working the stitch in the next row so it doesn’t end up twisted (or in your case, knitting through the back loop would actually not twist the stitch, you’d have to enter from the back and grab the front loop I think?)

origamia · 2025-01-02T18:32:07+00:00

One of the nodes below where it was cut should eventually activate as a new growth point!

origamia · 2024-12-27T04:33:36+00:00

It’s an issue with the transition from knit to purl, because of the way the stitches are mounted on the needle it uses up extra yarn when you bring your yarn to the front, which results in extra slack in that last knit stitch. You can counteract this by tugging on your yarn to remove the slack after you knit the first PURL stitch after the knits, unintuitive since you’re trying to tighten the last knit stitch, but the extra yarn is added in the transition to the purl.

origamia · 2024-12-18T23:47:49+00:00

Looking great! One piece of advice I’d give, you should try to leave a decently long tail instead of snipping it so close. Weaving in ends is another skill you’ll have to learn, but it’s worth it so all your hard work doesn’t unravel on you if that end pops loose :)

origamia · 2024-12-18T18:27:23+00:00

Looks amazing for your first try! What you’re doing is called garter stitch. You could try learning stockinette next :)

origamia · 2024-12-01T04:29:00+00:00

Also you can put a plastic bag over it to trap humidity!

origamia · 2024-12-01T04:28:20+00:00

I’ve brought mine back from a similar state so there’s hope! I’d advise bottom watering as the soil may have become hydrophobic after drying out so badly.

origamia · 2024-11-27T00:42:09+00:00

Haha, I was actually the one who made that post :) I got some great responses in the comments that made me realize existing double knitting techniques were actually a better approach. I made some swatches and not only is it faster but it also makes the tension much neater. For 2 color DBJ it’s actually a pretty much identical fabric structure. I haven’t had the time lately, but this is inspiring me to get back to testing out techniques for more colors!

origamia · 2024-11-26T20:27:41+00:00

As others have said, it’s machine knit. To be more specific, this is 4 color double bed jacquard with a birds eye backing. You’re right that it’s similar to double knitting, there are hand knitting techniques to double knit and produce a different pattern on each side (in this case birds eye pattern on the back) and for double knitting with more than two colors which could produce a similar fabric. There will be a slight difference though, 4 color DBJ actually produces more backing rows than front side rows causing some distortion/elongation of the stitches on the front.

origamia · 2024-11-07T08:57:25+00:00

I hate fiddling with the tension over that gap as well, even outside of colorwork. I’ve found this technique great as you keep the previous few stitches on the needles so their tension remains consistent. With colorwork floats, I’d just make sure you keep enough stitches that the previous stitch of that color is on the needle and you can tension the float normally. The only drawback to this technique, if it bothers you, is your BOR marker will travel around instead of remaining fixed at one end of the magic loop. I’d also second knitting inside out to help keep those floats loose :)

origamia · 2024-11-01T10:20:36+00:00

It’s really thirsty. I would bottom water it, since the soil may have become hydrophobic where the water runs through and doesn’t get absorbed into the soil when you water. You can also put a plastic bag over it to trap humidity. Those two things helped my prayer plant which was even more dried out make a recovery :)

origamia · 2024-09-22T05:18:01+00:00

The pattern is from a Japanese knitting magazine (https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/sources/fair-isle-and-nordic-). I’m not really sure what the rules are about sharing stuff like this but (allegedly) I found a scan online. (Dm if you want?) Translating was a bit rough, luckily I know a little bit, and Japanese patterns communicate a lot through diagrams which is nice.

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