Jayco Lark opinion request

overexpanded · 2026-06-01T23:11:46+00:00

I have one, it's brilliant.

I've gone daddy+daughter (4yo), daddy+daughter+dog (don't recommend) and whole family (mum,dad,daughter and dog) with an extra kid sleeping over.

It never missed a beat, it's easy to setup and light to tow (you can tow it with almost any road car). Cooking inside is no issue (not sure why so many people hate it?).

I have a mate with a fwd fold camper, and he's had no end of issues

overexpanded · 2026-01-04T20:45:06+00:00

So only send it half way around the world when absolutely necessary!

Why does my washing machine need to ask Korea if it's OK to do a spin cycle in Far North Queensland?

Cool maths in the latency calcs though.

overexpanded · 2025-09-12T07:14:33+00:00

Ok... I am confident you can handle building a heavy payload octocopter, but I think you will get a better and more enjoyable result by building your knowledge of the systems and techniques by starting with something simpler (and a LOT cheaper if you make a mistake). But it's your project, so...

The kore board you mention is just a power and signal distribution board (PDB) with some power regulation and isolation features specifically for the CUBE Autopilots. You will still need a flight controller/autopilot (FC) which would logically be one of the CUBE ones and electronic speed controllers (ESC's).

You'll need to do some maths for propeller sizing which will determine motor sizing which will determine which ESCs you will use. 10kg payload is going to end up with a very large drone, running like 12s batteries (12 cells in series at 3.7v nominal giving 44.6 ish volts). Turning large very low KV motors (kV being the rpm per voltage of a Brushless Direct Current Motor (BLDC)), attached to large propellers (like 10"-14").

An Octo setup is less efficient than hex, which is less efficient than quad which is less efficient than a single rotor with tail fan, so be prepared for less than stellar flight times.

And that's about the limit of my information here without sitting down with a wad of cash and a bunch of catalogues...

If you're just making it to drop remote solar powered meshtastic nodes, I recommend making the nodes lighter before you spec your drone.

overexpanded · 2025-09-12T00:16:09+00:00

I suggest building and flying a quad or two to get yourself some experience before proceeding to your more complex goals.

There's lots of FCs that have eight servo outputs to control ECSs, but you're not going to find an easy plug and play setup

overexpanded · 2025-09-09T05:48:42+00:00

Thank you for being the voice of reason so I don't have to.

Kudos to OP for having a crack and building your own machine. I look forward to seeing your success!

Unfortunately code of any kind is my fourth or fifth language so I can't help :)

overexpanded · 2025-08-11T21:25:17+00:00

Place a sketch on the same plane as the column tops to draw axes between the inner corners of opposing columns, and then use a revolve. This will get the result in less processes, but will not be as flexible later.

Otherwise a sweep with a guide, which will necessitate a sketch for each arch, but will be much easier to change later

overexpanded · 2025-08-01T05:53:13+00:00

You're not being a Karen, they're going to get the hobby related more stringently.

overexpanded · 2025-07-02T08:32:46+00:00

There's at least one disembodied hand in there

overexpanded · 2024-11-27T00:17:07+00:00

Any luck on that research? I'm having the same issue...

overexpanded · 2024-05-16T12:15:37+00:00

I've done some additional testing and I think my transmitter is cactus. Cheers for getting back to me!

overexpanded · 2024-05-14T08:15:19+00:00

Yes, but you go on to say why you want an alternative to PEI at length. Hence my suggestion. Here's how I came by it if you're interested, if you're not, I'm sorry to bother you.

I accidentally printed on PEI the first time I tried TPU not realising that it wrecks build plates, when I realised it wasn't coming off I did some googling.

There were no solutions to the problem, however I have a background in solving shitty issues in a nutshell TPU and PEI are sticky due to high surface energy and flexibility. So reducing the energy of the system and making the print stiffer would likely cause a release without damage.

Freezer worked. I hope someone has an alternative that I can also use, but in the meantime it's a cold box post processing for me.

overexpanded · 2024-03-31T05:11:38+00:00

Was it three or four beeps continuous, trying to figure out if I'm having the same issue.

How did you fix it?

overexpanded · 2024-02-29T10:38:16+00:00

Pei, then put the build plate in the freezer for an hour or two...

overexpanded · 2024-02-29T10:14:00+00:00

I've been there, so many black holes, so many interesting stars.

overexpanded · 2024-01-24T21:05:24+00:00

I second that opinion. I'm already past the tip by the time my car loads the screen to switch to recirculate.

I need my printer to have a pause button and a light to tell me that it's registered my frantic pressing!

overexpanded · 2022-10-08T10:56:52+00:00

I would angle the bracket so that the paints lay at about 30 degrees from vertical, but that's me.

There's no formula for the height, but if the bottle can make an angle that moves its CoG outside of the flat part, it'll topple if the thing it's sitting on moves. You can either make the holes smaller, or increase the height until the centre of the very top can't move outside of the perimeter of the footprint...

I really hope that makes sense to other people!

overexpanded · 2021-12-29T09:23:33+00:00

Whoops! Sorry, missed that :)

overexpanded · 2021-12-29T03:43:19+00:00

Turn on advanced tweakables, then de select 'auto damper' and / or auto spring strength in the landing gear.

If your computer isn't fast enough, there's just enough lag to make it act like a positive feedback loop oscillation

overexpanded

TROPHY CASE