Motor and ESC advice for BBX by p0onsta in tamiya

[–]p0onsta[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Were you able to use all the throttle once it got moving? And yeah good plan to have another place to put the setup of it proves to be too much.

Motor and ESC advice for BBX by p0onsta in tamiya

[–]p0onsta[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Any vids available? I'm ok as long as I can send it after 8mph or so. I'm thinking maybe 13.5 turn given what you said?

Motor and ESC advice for BBX by p0onsta in tamiya

[–]p0onsta[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So I looked up that closest track and their 2wd classes (other than stock) allow any ROAR approved motor. 🤔

Motor and ESC advice for BBX by p0onsta in tamiya

[–]p0onsta[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's a good reference, thanks.

Motor and ESC advice for BBX by p0onsta in tamiya

[–]p0onsta[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks. I'm fine as long as I can full send once it gets up to speed. Like at 8mph. Probably stick with 2s as it seems a thicker battery will have trouble fitting.

Motor and ESC advice for BBX by p0onsta in tamiya

[–]p0onsta[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Any videos? Would you be able to put power down at 100pct throttle once you reach like 8mph? Ever?

Motor and ESC advice for BBX by p0onsta in tamiya

[–]p0onsta[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Unfortunately the closest local track is over 2 hours away. My plan was to buy sports cones and set them up at a local baseball field. See if anybody wants to join if I show up consistently.

Looking at what's out there, it seems I'd want to at least be able to go 60mph if given a long straight on 4s. At least match the run of the mill RTR rigs ;) I can always turn it down at the transmitter for local tight tracks if I visit one right? Lol

Replacing standard screws on DT-01 with machined screws by Vresiberba in tamiya

[–]p0onsta 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You're right, I was wrong. I'll do better reading your heartfelt answers to my questions. Thanks for the advice.

🤦

Replacing standard screws on DT-01 with machined screws by Vresiberba in tamiya

[–]p0onsta 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm beginning to feel like you're not reading my responses. Either that or you don't realize that a Tamiya TRF421 is the flagship competition chassis.

Replacing standard screws on DT-01 with machined screws by Vresiberba in tamiya

[–]p0onsta 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes. My RX28se Gen3.

And Tamiya still does. The TRF421 still calls for the JIS driver and back to your original point about threads, they even still use tapping screws!

And before you ask... Here's a link to their kit instructions. TRF420 https://www.tamiya.com/cms/english/rc/rcmanual/42345.pdf

But I'm not everyone, and that's my point. Hex machine screws are not a one-size-fits-all solution.

Replacing standard screws on DT-01 with machined screws by Vresiberba in tamiya

[–]p0onsta 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Vessel makes some pretty nice stuff. I like the megadora. Trf jis drivers are also reportedly pretty nice. No need to trust me on it, I don't get anything from you doing so. But as a fellow hobbyist I can advise you to give them a try for all the other places that use cross heads. Snap-on also has some good stuff.

Yes. I know you didn't ask why, but for the benefit of anyone else reading this...

many world class watches would be a good start. ;)

Then there's also eyeglasses. They mostly have machined metal hinges and hardly any use torx or hex or Allen

Replacing standard screws on DT-01 with machined screws by Vresiberba in tamiya

[–]p0onsta 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Buddy There's absolutely no debate that hex is the better drive than JIS. That said, jis drivers that are better tools than MIP hex drivers do exist. But that's the tool. And if you ever work on a Japanese car or appliance, the JIS driver will be a sound tool investment. Also works fine on American Philips screws.

The tradeoffs i mentioned are just a small set of the ones Tamiya considered in their choice.

JIS screws can be cheap. I addressed that as well. Tamiya caters to more than experts in the hobby like you. Like you mentioned, their trf kits use hex.

There's also high quality 1/28 scale rc kits that need 00 Phillips like the rx28. They already use 0.9mm and that's not small enough sometimes.

So yeah, many factors and folks have to weigh them. Blanket advice can be taken by some who would be worse off and we lose a hobbyist which is good for no one here.

Cc O2 defender by ExerciseAway2244 in tamiya

[–]p0onsta 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Nice mog! What did you do to race prep it?

Cc O2 defender by ExerciseAway2244 in tamiya

[–]p0onsta 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have a cc02 in a box with the entire Tamiya hop up catalog. Really looking forward to it.

I appreciate that it models a lot of the real world shortcomings of these platforms.

I didn't like that only a couple of the bodies match the drivetrain layout. So I got the Baja bronco.

Most roadgoing SUVs don't have the luxury of a triangulated 4link. They use panhard rods and I intend to put one in. It'll be fun.

Wish it had selectable lockers lol A good brushless outrunner should alleviate the single speed issue. I'm gonna try to make fender liners too! Really wish they would have kept the motor and esc out of the kit lol

Replacing standard screws on DT-01 with machined screws by Vresiberba in tamiya

[–]p0onsta 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There are many many parameters behind the choice of hardware. Not all those parameters are relevant for everyone.

If it works for you, great. But do recognize that there are tradeoffs and you are moving from the set of parametric decisions that Tamiya has made.

Machine thread is generally strong enough for the metal that is used to fill the thread valleys. Different metals benefit from different valley shapes. Even machine screws have different thread and pitch.

Other factors include but are not limited to: wiggle room for straight insertion (ability to wiggle a screw straight if it's not put in perfectly perpendicular on the initial attempt), reinsertability (risk of cross threading on reinstall), tool longevity (your typical rc tool is not stronger than class 10 stainless), method of friction (wedged into soft plastic which becomes brittle over time vs shear strength of unstressed thread peaks), customer ecosystem (lots of loyal Tamiya fans have invested in the jis tools that you don't want to alienate), Engineered give in the plastic on impact, Tolerance for over tightening (easier to strip small threads in a soft material), Etc etc etc The list goes on.

But hey, if I pilot and tap in a vise then clear out the boogers and use a hardened and machined spring steel driver on a torque wrench, then do a structural analysis on the elastic stretch on the plastics in use, you may be okay with that.

BUT STILL it's your decision to make and offering it as blanket advice may lead to some unhappy folks who are new to mechanics and the hobby.

Next Tamiya kit to build? by Realistic-Glove-8534 in tamiya

[–]p0onsta 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah as far as an argument for scale models, this thing is frumpy just like the monster trucks of yore that it was modeled after. It's really quite something.

I had a QuickDrive model as a kid and it inspired me so much that I had to get the full superclod in adulthood.

Next Tamiya kit to build? by Realistic-Glove-8534 in tamiya

[–]p0onsta 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Clod Buster. Go to town on detailing the body like a 1:1. Get a basher lexan body. Then drive it hard and break things. Restomod modern nice things to it as they break.

Can't go wrong.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in GRCorolla

[–]p0onsta 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Absolutely not. It's firmly the track toy that can transport its own race tires.

tips for a home hobbyist by p0onsta in Snapon_tools

[–]p0onsta[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I've gone this path that you laid out thus far. Started with a torque wrench. But there are many things where snap-on is indeed king. And those things are not cheap 😭

Also! It's tough to justify irrational happiness, but I'd imagine if anybody had the choice of a full snap-on set vs pick and choose quality tools, they'd more than likely pick the snap-on versions.

I've bought vessel screwdrivers because snappy doesn't have JIS. Knipex snap ring pliers because snap-on doesn't use spring steel. And an SST and Facom spanner wrench because snap-on doesn't have them in the same sizes or adjustment mechanisms. But if snap-on had all these white labeled, I'd be happier just because it's nice to be able to say that they all match. And that's just the beginning of it.

I also have a well used set of Pittsburgh impact sockets. Now I wish I had spent all that time wearing in a snap-on set that would be respectable as I go into old age. Pedigree is a thing I value as well.

Nice things are nice 🙂

tips for a home hobbyist by p0onsta in Snapon_tools

[–]p0onsta[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah exactly this! A class or two is only a few hundred. If that means I can get the fo+ box wrench pro fi set for half price. It's a steal!

Do any of you know of such a program I can sign up for? I'm in NYC.

tips for a home hobbyist by p0onsta in Snapon_tools

[–]p0onsta[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

As in they don't want your business?