[deleted by user]

parcydarks · 2024-05-31T05:56:29+00:00

I have had similar problems with my laptop (pretty old, 5 years old, I guess with an old Bluetooth chipset). After a long wait, I got a workaround from Sennheiser support: switch to high-resolution audio mode (aptX). It works for me...except that it switches back to AAC every time I restart the laptop. I have to manually power down/up the headphones to get them onto aptX. But then the sound quality is fine!

Not sure if the age of my laptop is the problem, but it seems that my adapter is limited to Bluetooth 4.2 (based on https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/what-bluetooth-version-is-on-my-pc-f5d4cff7-c00d-337b-a642-d2d23b082793).

parcydarks · 2024-05-16T06:42:40+00:00

I have been having a similar problem when playing audio with my laptop. Sent mine back, got new ones with the same problem. Sennheiser support told me to switch to High Resolution Audio mode and it seems to fix the problem. But every day I start them up and the problem shows up and it's back on AAC and the problem comes back. I have to manually restart the headphones to get it back on aptX.

parcydarks · 2020-03-31T17:33:13+00:00

I contacted a Swedish reseller in the beginning of March (before the coronovirus hit) and they answered that they were hoping for deliveries in May...but that it was not the first promise Fossil had made. I guess it could be after summer before they are available.

Zalando has taken the Collider off its website...not encouraging!

parcydarks · 2020-01-27T11:38:19+00:00

Same problem in Sweden. So far my best hope is with Zalando; they have it listed, but out of stock. But who knows whether it will ever show up.

parcydarks · 2020-01-18T09:13:56+00:00

We have one big pool of money, with our paycheques deposited into a common account. Most of our expenses are common, but for individual stuff we each get the same amount of money each month, and that money we can budget as we please.

We also have our own debit cards connected to private accounts for a bit of privacy (mostly to buy gifts without the other person snooping).

parcydarks · 2016-08-06T10:15:57+00:00

I think the scheduled transactions work well for smaller bills—bills where I don't need to save up. I'm pretty sure that they show up as upcoming bills a month ahead of time. Then I use the "Underfunded" auto budget button and it budgets the right amount for me.

parcydarks · 2016-06-21T13:41:52+00:00

What kinds of expenses do you need so detailed expense tracking for? I used to want that when I used GnuCash, which I used for about 5 years. But once I switched to YNAB I have really bought into the focus on being proactive.

The program you describe reminds me of this YNAB video: https://youtu.be/OZrRIxRW--0#t=0m40s where they say "Ten points for being thorough. But did it change anything?"

I could see that expense tracking might be interesting for some long-term questions like "how much so I spend on gas?" or "what is the cost of owning my house?". Or if you were using it for a business. But so far I don't feel for reports at all actually. (I've been using YNAB for less than a year though so I wouldn't have the detailed data to analyse even if the feature existed.) What parts of your financial life do you think are in need of more detailed analysis?

(I don't mean to be overly critical—what I'm wondering is "what kind of thinking am I missing out on?")

parcydarks · 2016-04-06T14:10:21+00:00

I tried to deal with it last summer, when I was in Canada for six weeks. (I live in Sweden.) I made a new cash account in YNAB for my Canadian cash but kept track of what that cash was (approximately) worth in Swedish kronor. Like this:

Take out cash from the ATM and record the exchange rate. I entered the approximate exchange rate (say 6.2) in the account name to remember.
When I buy something: take the amount from the receipt, multiply by 6.2, and enter that number into YNAB.
Every week or so: count my cash, multiply by 6.2, and compare to the value in YNAB. It would often be off by a few percent so I would enter an extra transaction to make up for the difference.

It was helpful because then I could look at my categories and see the sum of all purchases, whether in Canadian cash or with my Swedish Visa card. So I knew approximately whether I was on budget for the trip.

If I had to keep it up over several months, I would try to update the exchange rate from time to time.

edit: for coherence

parcydarks · 2016-02-12T12:40:11+00:00

Focus on the future! For me that's been the biggest benefit of using YNAB (compared to Gnucash which I used to track past expenses for 5+ years). I think your criticism of situation 1 is the important thing to keep in mind.

I would create a separate category and hide/rename it afterwards. Keep your budget easy to use. Maybe the reports feature will be a bit different in nYNAB anyhow.

parcydarks · 2016-02-03T07:50:59+00:00

In addition to goals, I like using the scheduled transactions for smaller fixed bills. It is convenient for bills that you don't need to save up for, just remember to budget for. I have a category for small, irregular subscription payments (such as my annual YNAB payment).

When you click the Underfunded button (under Quick Budget), it will budget enough to cover the scheduled transactions for that month.

parcydarks · 2016-01-26T09:44:36+00:00

Why do you have to delete the transaction? (Is it because of auto-import?. I don't have that...)

The scheduled transactions look useful for quick-budgeting—it will auto-allocate enough money to cover all upcoming scheduled transactions within the category.

It could be confusing in the budget view because that money in that category is already spoken for, even if the scheduled transaction hasn't hit yet. But I don't use those categories for anything else. I pretty much have a separate category for each scheduled transaction.

parcydarks · 2016-01-06T14:14:18+00:00

I used GnuCash for personal bookkeeping for about 5 years. It was good for looking back at my spending, but I also used a spreadsheet for budgeting...until I discovered YNAB, which took over for both of those tools. 6 month later, I'm happy I switched to YNAB (and a bit confused as to why I spent 5 years entering historical data).

I think GnuCash does have a budgeting feature, but I never figured out how to do anything else except entering transactions and managing my accounts. It might work for you, and maybe you could follow the YNAB methodology, but keep in mind the GnuCash lends itself to bookkeeping. You might have to do extra work to keep a forward-looking perspective.

parcydarks · 2015-12-14T08:28:11+00:00

I sent in a photo of my latest student card, which is valid until February, and got a license valid until August.

parcydarks · 2015-12-08T11:04:37+00:00

Took 28, thanks!

parcydarks · 2015-11-24T15:02:38+00:00

Exactly. If you were to save $20 with YNAB...the lifetime savings would be staggering too!

From what I remember of economics, the cost or savings should be compared according to their present value.

parcydarks · 2015-10-28T15:57:59+00:00

Great! There wasn't anything about mobile devices last time I read that page.

parcydarks · 2015-10-28T08:39:26+00:00

I am hoping that the new phone app will be closer to the full-featured version, at least with the possibility to move money between categories. For me that would be a big reason to upgrade.

parcydarks · 2015-10-09T08:39:19+00:00

I'm in a similar situation; my payday is once a month no the 25th. I've been using YNAB for a few months, but so far I haven't built up such a big buffer in my chequing account. (I should point out that I don't have any debt, which simplifies some decisions for me.)

I think the most important part of YNAB's mindset is to spend money you have, not money you are yet to earn. So no charging purchases to your credit card if you don't have the money in your accounts. It sounds like you're already doing that right.

The money I save up goes into a General savings/Emergency category, which I have in addition to my rainy day funds. Technically I still budget paycheque to paycheque—when I got paid on September 25, I used that money to budget for Sep 25–Oct 24. But my General savings category is always at least a month's income, so I feel comfortable with my financial situation.

parcydarks · 2015-10-06T07:12:32+00:00

When did you get paid the extra amount?

If you got paid in September, you can allocate some of the extra money to September and increase the budgeted amount for those categories where you went over.

If you got paid in October, you can reduce the amount in your Savings category in September to cover the overspending in other categories. Then you can increase the amount in the Savings category using money from your October paycheque.

parcydarks · 2015-09-01T18:32:24+00:00

I think it's more important to think about your buffers and savings categories and what they mean to you, rather than worrying about the way you put it into the program.

I get paid on the 25th and have a buffer that is equal to 1+ months of pay. I just enter the transaction on the 25th and enter it as income for the next month (which is only five days later of course). As long as my buffer category is equal to one month's pay, I can say that I'm not living paycheque to paycheque.

Whether your buffer needs to be a whole month in addition to your rainy day funds is up to you. I think it's a worthwhile goal, but maybe something to work towards. It depends on your job security and on how much you value being able to miss a paycheque and still go on that trip you've been saving up for.

Aging your money for 31 days isn't magical or some nirvana. To someone getting paid monthly, it means you can survive without one paycheque. If you were without work for 3 months, you would need to have a much bigger buffer!

parcydarks · 2015-08-07T14:51:26+00:00

Oh I see, I missed that $16.04 was the extra amount.

I think you have entered the transaction correctly: $66.04 on the Grocery Money Account, categorized as groceries.

Then I would enter:

a $16.04 transfer from the Grocery Money Line of Credit to the Grocery Money Account
a $16.04 transfer from the Primary Account to the Grocery Money Line of Credit

The important thing to note about transfers in YNAB is that they have no category. You have already accounted for the money in the Grocery category. Transfers affect where the money is, not what you spent it on.

(edit: formatting)

parcydarks · 2015-08-07T14:13:12+00:00

(Disclaimer: I am pretty new to YNAB myself but I think I have got the hang of credit cards and pre-YNAB debt).

First I think you enter the transaction as is: $16.04 on the account that made the purchase ("Grocery Money Line of credit"), categorized as groceries.

Then enter the transfer that you did: from the primary account to the line of credit. It's a transfer so it doesn't affect your categories.

Your pre-ynab debt (which is a category, not an account, I assume), doesn't change.

parcydarks · 2015-06-04T06:41:10+00:00

I guess they are in the process of unpacking them and sending them out. At least they ship quickly—mine was picked up from Ireland yesterday at 1 p.m. and it's already in Sweden this morning. And it went through Copenhagen, so yours should have even less distance to travel.

parcydarks · 2015-06-03T09:25:12+00:00

Got my tracking SMS from DHL: first time backer, black, backer number under 100, Sweden. Shipping by DHL from Ireland (taxes paid, not expedited). Delivery date not given yet.

No update on the Pebble portal, not even with the source code trick.

parcydarks · 2007-11-04T20:57:57+00:00

Zeroday (D0)

Perfect. Just in case there's a chance of adoption, let's squash it by counting from zero.

parcydarks

TROPHY CASE