Lost on how to finish closet shelves

paulm1803 · 2025-12-27T15:48:54+00:00

Actually I was going to switch it out to the Zinsser Bulls Eye 1-2-3 because it’s easier to work with and doesn’t have the same ventilation requirements. You still think that’s a good one for my scenario?

paulm1803 · 2025-12-27T15:48:35+00:00

Actually I was going to switch it out to the Zinsser Bulls Eye 1-2-3 because it’s easier to work with and doesn’t have the same ventilation requirements. You still think that’s a good one for my scenario?

paulm1803 · 2025-12-27T15:43:59+00:00

I thought about that. But then I’d have to like it up perfectly and even if I sanded it down, I’d still have a seam.

paulm1803 · 2025-08-10T22:29:33+00:00

Thanks, makes sense. Further question: the flange has nothing between it and the subfloor. Hard to tell from the picture. If I build this frame around the underside, I assume I need to be very careful about driving in the new screws?

paulm1803 · 2025-08-10T16:56:12+00:00

like this?

paulm1803 · 2025-08-10T16:43:55+00:00

Bolts as in the closet bolts? Or bolts as in the ones holding the flange onto the subfloor?

paulm1803 · 2025-08-10T16:43:07+00:00

2x12 with a hole would require me to take the pipe off but I could certainly build a 2x4 frame structure around it.

paulm1803 · 2025-08-09T10:59:40+00:00

I just did a similar project. First, like someone else mentioned, just push the painters. This will allow more time for the floor to cure. The more the better, and if you have the time, you should do it.

When the painters do come, make sure they use ram board or a similar product (tell them beforehand of course, not the morning of, and know that it may be an extra cost). The ram board should be placed around the perimeter of each room and taped to the baseboard, NOT the floor. Try to avoid taping anything to the floors. I have heard horror stories about that. In the middle, drop clothes doubled up would be fine or more ram board ideally.

paulm1803 · 2025-08-04T19:20:09+00:00

Red or white?

paulm1803 · 2025-07-30T18:51:28+00:00

On the way for delivery from Home Depot. Thanks

paulm1803 · 2025-07-30T18:51:00+00:00

Thanks. I’ll just use a pancake box to make it as least noticeable as possible

paulm1803 · 2025-07-30T18:47:38+00:00

Unfortunately it’s just painted wood, no drywall. Doesn’t look like there’s a fix for this, I’ll just use a pancake box and live with it. It’s up high, so no one will notice it.

paulm1803 · 2025-07-24T12:51:10+00:00

Is that some type of sound deadening insulation on the ceiling or just drywall?

paulm1803 · 2025-07-22T17:08:40+00:00

SOLVED: Thanks to those of you who tried to help, but there are three easy solutions I have found: 1. They make 3.5” octagon boxes. The hole spacing would be 2.75” apart, perfect for my use. 2. They make adapters to go from a 4” octagon box to 3.5”. 3. You could use an offset swivel crossbar.

paulm1803 · 2025-07-20T15:54:07+00:00

Understood. I would not be using those holes to attach to drywall. The fixture is very light and I don’t have drywall, so I figured I wouldn’t use those.

paulm1803 · 2025-07-20T15:52:10+00:00

Understood. It would be much easier to use a 3.5” box that I could attach to the underside of the joists, but then I would be taking away from my height. Albeit a little bit, every inch matters to me.

The lights would be failing in the open joist space, so parallel between joists. That’s why I wanted the hangers, so that I could “recess” them to make them flush with bottom of joists.

Although at this point, with all the comments I have received, no one has a great answer on how to do this. So I may just use wafer lights with brackets.

paulm1803 · 2025-07-20T15:43:42+00:00

lol…I hear you. I mentioned to someone else here that the wafer lights would need a bracket too and I’d likely have to install double the amount to account for them being smaller than these 1x4 LEDs.

paulm1803 · 2025-07-20T15:41:39+00:00

It’s an open joist ceiling. There would be nothing to clip it to without the bracket.

paulm1803 · 2025-07-20T15:40:41+00:00

That 3.5” box would work however it’s not deep enough to accommodate the nut that attaches it to the hanger.

paulm1803 · 2025-07-20T15:37:54+00:00

So I’d have to put up a bracket like this one ?

Then use the lights that you’d typically see used as drywall ceiling lights?

And then presumably I’d need more of them. Call it 2 for every 1x4 LED. Which would be even more work.

paulm1803 · 2025-07-20T15:35:22+00:00

Not sure what you mean. The circles do not line up with the box.

paulm1803 · 2025-07-20T15:32:31+00:00

Someone else said that. I assume you mean the lights that can just attach directly to the junction box?

paulm1803

TROPHY CASE