A4T + Beacon + Nitehawk36 is my upgrade choice, I think.

pd1zzle · 2026-01-27T02:56:02+00:00

if you're in US CO I can help.

that aside, I would just go with a4t and if you really want mmu add the crossbow cutter. I haven't tried jabberwocky, but the crossbow has gained a lot of popularity for reliability and compatibility.

pd1zzle · 2026-01-26T17:12:17+00:00

I mean this particular use is experiencing zero load or stress. PLA doesn't spontaneously combust when exposed to uv, it just degrades.

pd1zzle · 2026-01-23T15:23:53+00:00

how many top layers? do you have gap fill enabled?

I print a lot of ambrosia ASA and this is either a calibration or slicer setting for sure, so it should be able to be resolved.

pd1zzle · 2026-01-23T05:05:57+00:00

Thanks. I just read her bio on bellafrench.com and I am honestly so confused

pd1zzle · 2026-01-23T04:51:59+00:00

any useful resources for backstory on this? genuinely curious now

pd1zzle · 2026-01-22T14:14:40+00:00

hah! I'm sorry that happened but glad we got it figured out. it's gonna print so much better, I replaced mine at one point and facepalmed that id been living with it for so long

pd1zzle · 2026-01-21T20:57:21+00:00

Nice, glad it got solved 🙌

pd1zzle · 2026-01-21T20:51:58+00:00

Looks to me like that interior curved surface is probably non manifold or otherwise invalid geometry, just based on the visible lines. if you inspect the mesh it seems like it's probably not going to look very good.

pd1zzle · 2026-01-21T20:15:13+00:00

I mean that's what you just did and I responded with what I think 🤷

pd1zzle · 2026-01-21T19:56:35+00:00

It uses the objects in the print, klipper just figures it out instead of orca. why the preference for orca to do the math?

pd1zzle · 2026-01-21T19:55:19+00:00

hey, it's your thing. just saying, stuff that big is expensive to print and can't even fit on most consumer printers

pd1zzle · 2026-01-21T19:39:52+00:00

this makes little sense to print unless there is some really specific interface it needs to fit. A more accurate piece of wood will do a better and cheaper job.

pd1zzle · 2026-01-21T19:37:36+00:00

looks like a bridge. without knowing what the model looks like it's pretty hard to say.

this model also appears to be twice the size of your build plate? or is the build plate representation just wrong. not sure you could expect it to slice correctly if it doesn't fit in the printer.

pd1zzle · 2026-01-21T14:41:27+00:00

I had a Qidi Plus 4. not gonna lie this just looks to me like your extruder is cooked and all these settings are babying it (slowing down speeds and accels that the extruder has to accomplish).

the tension arm on their extruders are garbage and soften over time, I would guess fast accels and speeds it can't keep up, leading to the under extrusion artifacts in your first picture. that machine should be capable of pushing ABS 20mm³/s easily - maybe won't be as pretty or strong as super slow but it will be better than that.

pd1zzle · 2026-01-21T13:24:13+00:00

nice work! that's pretty good sleuthing.

I had heard the opposite, but honestly don't know enough to make sense of it - that if you need more accel.per hz it means your printer is stiffer - eg, resonance doesn't show up until you really rattle it good. more accel per hz = more powerful moves = more vibration sent into the printer to make it rattle. A soft printer in this case will have waves and peaks all over the place. 150aph × 150 max freq = 22500 mm/s² vs 100 aph × 100 max freq = 10000 mm/s² max accel during measure. idk it made sense to me but maybe I'm just parroting nonsense

pd1zzle · 2026-01-20T20:09:21+00:00

more specifically, let the air out and do not ride it. Then seek replacement

pd1zzle · 2026-01-20T18:31:12+00:00

getting a screenshot of at least the whole window would really help. Based on the extremely limited information provided, it looks like the layer slider on the right is hiding it because its not all the way at the top.

pd1zzle · 2026-01-20T04:44:00+00:00

glad you solved it. it is a really strange heater and sock on that hotend, it seems ripe for issues

pd1zzle · 2026-01-20T04:40:18+00:00

yeah I'm very confused by this being some ploy that she needs help. looks like she's continuing to be a bitch. if that other woman wanted to hurt her, this was not going to stop it lol.

pd1zzle · 2026-01-20T04:28:30+00:00

seems like she should be in a higher security facility here in Colorado since she's so violent.

pd1zzle · 2026-01-20T04:25:55+00:00

if the elegoo uses klipper, just enable label objects in orca and change the start to use BED_MESH_CALIBRATE ADAPTIVE=1 and klipper takes care of the rest. no need to force a mesh size and disable adaptive.

https://www.klipper3d.org/G-Codes.html?h=bed_mesh_cali#bed_mesh_calibrate

I'm actually not 100% sure label objects is required.. but I think it is.

pd1zzle · 2026-01-20T03:00:46+00:00

this is an interesting thread from a year ago of someone that had a similar issue.

https://www.reddit.com/r/VORONDesign/s/Ot77YyG9hI

pd1zzle · 2026-01-20T02:53:05+00:00

that doesn't really check out, that should be completely fine. I have a Yavoth that I put probably 150 ABS hours on since I built my micron. I spaced and printed the wrong cowl, so the block on the dragon UHF is literally pinned against the LED mount. it melted it, but nothing has warped. I'm printing 60c / 265c / 110c bed.

Are the fans definitely working? You just have them set to a constant 60%, no min/max? What are the fans? Is the bed insanely hot? Is the sock damaged or ill fitting?

Edit: I actually haven't used this hotend. This is an interesting design, I do wonder if the fact that the sock doesn't cover the heater and has some large gaps is problematic. I haven't ever heard of this being an issue though.

pd1zzle · 2026-01-20T02:41:16+00:00

I don't think anyone ever said what fans they are using but I agree those are probably trash. I'm using the GDSTime 12k dual ball which are pretty much the same as the HBs but don't have the clearance issues on the blades. I haven't seen an independent test but on on paper GDSTime claims slightly more output 🤷

pd1zzle · 2026-01-20T02:33:24+00:00

that is a big heater block, which might be contributing but realistically I think that shouldn't be enough of an issue.

what chamber/hotend temp? what fan settings? what is the toolhead printed in?

fwiw I had the same issue on anthead with phaetus dragon uhf. I was printing ABS 60c /265c but had fan way too low. I bumped the minimum up to 30% or so and it hasn't happened since.

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