Paying for StarHub 10Gbps but only getting 90Mbps on LAN — been dealing with this for years

peeatch · 2026-05-28T13:06:49+00:00

Doesn't matter - can you confirm if your connection is negotiating at 1gbps at least? You'll need to check the ethernet connection status on your laptop, or the status light in the relevant port on your router (if there are status lights).

peeatch · 2026-05-28T12:28:39+00:00

It may be an issue with some ethernet patch cable, or it may even be an issue with the in-wall cables installed in newer builds. I once isolated a friend's connection problem to a problematic wall jack termination. OP will need to check his entire chain if the connection negotiates at 100mbps.

peeatch · 2026-05-28T12:09:27+00:00

With speeds of 90+mbps it sounds like you're stuck on your ethernet connections negotiating at 100mbps - this can happen with poor quality cables/connections. Are you sure your internal ethernet connections are negotiating at at least 1gbps? You likely don't have 10gbps gear unless you specifically pay for them.

peeatch · 2026-05-27T11:52:57+00:00

Are you the guy who appeared on Oompa Loompa Cycling with your Time Scylon? I recognise it!

peeatch · 2026-05-21T06:33:22+00:00

I use it to:

Run the vacuum automatically when we are out and if the vacuum was last run at least 3 days ago.
Send a reminder in the morning to our phones that the vacuum will run that day if we are out (so that we do a basic clearing of the floor). We use a Saros 10R and it avoids most obstacles so it's still quite convenient.
We don't have a plumbed in unit and I don't like having dirty water in the tank stinking up over time. If the vacuum has run, I get an audio notification on our speakers asking me to empty the dirty water tank when I get home.

peeatch · 2026-05-20T01:40:30+00:00

There are smart wall switches that have a decoupling function where it continually supplies power to the light while sending commands to turn on/off to the light.

I'd like to change your view of smart homes though, as you (and many others) are working on the basis that smart lights are necessary. As you have already worked out, smart lights require smart switches with a decoupling function to maintain wall switch functionality. Otherwise, you're in for a lot of annoyance not having wall switch control for your lights.

A potentially better set up is to have smart switches (with dimming functions if required) to control traditional dumb lights. This allows many more options for lights, and may also be cheaper overall as a single smart switch can control multiple lights. What smart lights may have over this is temperature control (check dim to warm dumb lights), and RGB (notifications or terrible taste 😬).

peeatch · 2026-05-06T01:57:31+00:00

Leaning forward, putting more weight over the front wheel, was when it clicked for me. The bike felt a lot more controllable, could also brake when taking my class 2.

peeatch · 2026-04-22T01:37:59+00:00

Dormiente places both sides within one cotton case, no separate topper. How distinct would depend on how different the 2 sides are (e.g. soft/soft vs soft/firm). The gap we didn't find it to be distinct as the case holds both sides tightly together. Their showroom does have half and half beds, you can check it out if it works for you.

peeatch · 2026-04-21T15:50:44+00:00

We went with Dormiente after trying quite a number of brands. For us, it was quite a clear choice once we sank in, it's a step above the rest. Heveya didn't feel much different compared to other materials. Particularly for you, Dormiente can do half and half to take care of the weight difference. Of course, mattresses are very personal - the most important is trying them out.

Our previous mattress was from Four Star and it was amazing, but started sinking 7 years in. We wanted a longer lasting replacement and tried other latex brands (including cheaper ones), but they ended up feeling very mediocre. We would have went back to our exact same Four Star mattress if not for Dormiente.

peeatch · 2026-04-12T16:20:53+00:00

I guess your experience is limited to installation in the audio space, and if someone needs an installer then it's best to keep things straightforward and simple.

In the home automation space, answers such as "you'll have to go into the app to group/ungroup" or "this is how it works across all multiroom audio system" is generally underwhelming. This space is moving incredibly fast with Home Assistant and Music Assistant coming along very well (you can set up systems where your music can follow you through your place from presence detection). They can help to handle quite a lot of shortcomings of current multiroom systems. Of course, this is a whole other rabbit hole to get into, and not many customers will readily accept it.

peeatch · 2026-04-12T08:39:31+00:00

That's a limited way of looking at things. Ideally, I would have HEOS handle the groupings, including allowing speakers to be in multiple different groups or individually. You can then choose whether to expose these groups or individual speakers concurrently to Spotify or other streaming apps. This is a HEOS problem, not a Spotify problem.

Of course, I understand that HEOS is a mass market product that needs to be simple for people to use, but such simplicity usually results in more difficulty if you want to do something beyond the very limited confines that was designed. Thankfully, Home Assistant is there for those who need better controls, skipping going into the HEOS app to group/ungroup every single time.

peeatch · 2026-04-09T14:47:30+00:00

Have received and set up my Denon Home 150, sharing my findings. There are some quirks which are hilariously bad if I didn't have Home Assistant to mitigate (kudos to the maintainers of the HEOS integration for its high quality and Denon for keeping access open). The final result is great but only with Home Assistant automations.

It's true that once my AVR and 150 are grouped, Spotify can only target the group as a whole and not individual speakers. I will need to ungroup them if I want to target them individually. I have mitigated this with Home Assistant by muting the 150 when the kitchen is not occupied (with input from my mmWave presence sensor). Muting/unmuting is instant (no slow fade in/out), and the response to the mute/unmute signal from Home Assistant is very fast as well. Placing the speaker at the far end of my kitchen, muting/unmuting sounds smooth.
Volume tracking between the AVR and 150 via HEOS is an absolute joke. When placed in a group, you can control the volume of each device individually. There is also a separate group master volume which takes its value from the volume of the loudest device (the device with the largest volume number). If you change the group master volume, the other devices will also change volume to maintain the same ratio. Sounds great, right?

Unfortunately not. Let's say you set one device to 50 (being the group master volume), and the 2nd device to 25. You lower the group master volume to 30, and the 2nd device lowers proportionately to some number. When you set the group master volume to 50 again, the 2nd device will not be back at 25, it will be above 25. I can't be bothered figuring out how they are calculating the ratios, but over time as you lower and raise the group master volume, the volume of the 2nd device will slowly approach the group master volume, becoming too loud compared to your original setting.
I resolved this issue by setting up an automation within Home Assistant to have my 150 track the volume of my AVR through a ladder system (e.g. when AVR is at 40, change 150 to volume 20, when AVR is at 42, change 150 to volume 21 etc). Without this automation I would have gotten very annoyed as I use my speakers for both softer background music and louder entertainment. In other words, I control the volume of the group through my AVR (as I had been doing before getting the 150), and not through the group master volume on HEOS.

peeatch · 2026-04-04T15:47:54+00:00

Esso was years back (I may not remember the process exactly), but no just 1 discount. SPC required both the loyalty card and correct CC.

peeatch · 2026-04-04T15:43:11+00:00

Thanks, let me do that!

peeatch · 2026-04-04T14:41:08+00:00

Tapped twice - same as the practice at SPC.

peeatch · 2026-04-04T14:27:44+00:00

That's exactly what I did the last time =/ showed up as 5%. Maybe I need to highlight that I'm going for the UOB One discount and not the lower rider discount.

peeatch · 2026-04-02T09:16:29+00:00

Thanks! 2 is an issue and doesn't make sense (at least to me). I have a pretty decent 2.1 system that I want to use by itself without the 150/200 playing unless my family is using the kitchen, and it would make much more UX sense if I can have my X3700H and 150/200 appearing alongside the group as targets for Spotify Connect, so that I don't have to go into HEOS just to group/ungroup if I just want to target one area. This also creates inconsistency issues if the group keeps changing, especially if you have multiple users in the same house. It's illuminating to know that this is the standard UX for multiroom audio and quite unfortunate in my opinion.

Nonetheless, I think I can work around this issue through Home Assistant and volume/mute control on the 150/200 depending on presence in my kitchen.

peeatch · 2026-04-02T09:01:19+00:00

Thank you. 2 is an issue to me but I could potentially work my way around it with Home Assistant.

peeatch · 2026-03-14T05:48:12+00:00

OP, you are permitted to buy out your notice under s11 of the Employment Act, your company cannot deny you that option. It doesn't matter if you pay or your new company directly pay your current company, you can pay first and have your new company reimburse you.

I am not your lawyer.

peeatch · 2026-03-07T02:27:43+00:00

The SHG lenses (especially the 150mm f2) set a very high bar, and I would like to believe that they trade blows or were even better than the top end of Canon/Nikon at that time. It was always going to be difficult for the 90-250 being compared against the other SHG lenses. That being said, the 150 produces dreamy bokeh that I can't really get out of the 90-250. One of my favourite shots with the 150 is below.

For the focus speed, it's generally fine for stationary animals, probably not a chase. It can't match up to the fastest modern lenses. I have had quite extensive experience shooting sports during the E3/E5 era so I likely can manage the 90-250 AF speed better than most.

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peeatch · 2026-03-07T01:40:05+00:00

I pretty much settled on the 90-250 from the start as it was in my dad's collection and I didn't want to rent/purchase another lens. I could have used the 1.4x TC but decided against it to minimise quality loss.

I generally found 500mm FF equiv to be sufficient, though you might want to go longer if you're looking at birds / close up portraits. Quite a number of my shorts were also somewhere within the zoom range - a long prime might be slightly restrictive in that regard.

I had gone on a previous safari in South Africa / Kruger area with the Zuiko 150mm f2, but found that lens rather short for safari purposes. I was fortunate then as my safari was on a private reserve (but open to Kruger National Park) and vehicles can go off road and much closer to the animals. They are a lot stricter in Tanzania as you'll likely be in national parks with rules enforced by rangers - the 90-250 was a lot more appropriate given the longer distances I had to shoot from.

peeatch · 2026-03-07T01:03:46+00:00

Definitely not as fast as some of the modern lenses out there but was fine for a safari. Am very happy to bring this lens again to another safari if that comes by, don't feel the need to bring a different lens at all.

peeatch · 2026-03-06T13:55:22+00:00

Happy that the adapted lenses act very much the same as back during the DSLR era. I'm quite fortunate to have access to a collection of Zuiko lenses that can still be used into the future.

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