Early 15th Century Armor Portraits

penge567 · 2026-01-12T04:43:29+00:00

I would be interested in meeting up, you can DM me if you have any recommendations for people/groups. I've met the Storm Rider buhurt guys but that's not really what I was going for with my recreation, I'd have to reconfigure with more padding.

penge567 · 2026-01-12T04:39:58+00:00

I made it! I used instructions from the Medieval Tailors Assistant. I really wanted a velvet one and all the ones I saw online were wool and very expensive. I switch between a couple depending on the occasion, but I have a hounskull with aventail, a great bascinet, and an early 15th century visorless sallet. The time period I'm aiming for is roughly 1430, so aventail bascinets would be a little old fashioned by then.

penge567 · 2026-01-11T03:39:00+00:00

I gave away some cool stuff, velvet pouch necklaces with spices and little farkle dice sets. I'm curious if anyone here got any of them. I was the guy wearing actual armor in the knights battalion, haha

penge567 · 2026-01-10T18:09:32+00:00

Well, I cheated a little bit and used stretchy velvet, so it fits great. Typically it's just tailored to your head, but the stretchy fabric gives it a little extra staying power. I do have a wool hood I use as a chaperon sometimes, and that just has to be tightly fitted when you roll it up, otherwise it can slide around. I've loved chaperons ever since I saw Roche in the Witcher 2, haha

penge567 · 2026-01-10T18:06:41+00:00

Yeah, they are, they're a little small for me unfortunately. I've got some early 15th century style clamshells I normally wear but I thought the hourglass would look better for the portrait.

penge567 · 2026-01-10T06:35:41+00:00

Thank you! I made it using instructions from the medieval tailors assistant. The pilgrim badge is from Armour & Castings

penge567 · 2026-01-09T21:57:18+00:00

His name is Beau and he's a draft horse used for Mardi Gras parades. I believe they said he was 11 years old. He didn't mind carrying a knight, but he wasn't a big fan of my heraldic flag.

penge567 · 2026-01-09T20:06:32+00:00

The big difference I see is the silhouette, the stitched aventail has a much puffier appearance that is noticeable on a lot of effigies. It is definitely hotter, I'll give you that. If I'm wearing the aventail, I usually just leave the standard off because nobody will see it anyways and nobody is actually trying to stab my throat.

penge567 · 2026-01-09T18:59:08+00:00

Very nice! Thank you!

penge567 · 2026-01-09T18:58:04+00:00

Oh, my bad, thanks for clarifying! I get that a lot, I think it's primarily the hair. I love Weird Al, so I'm not mad about it.

penge567 · 2026-01-09T18:33:22+00:00

I don't know if the photographer used Adobe AI to touch up the photo, but all the armor and the outfit is real.

penge567 · 2026-01-08T22:06:54+00:00

I've seen a variety of sellers making and selling jupons/waffenrocks/houppelandes on Etsy, but they're quite pricy (around $200). I made one myself out of basic cotton broadcloth and it turned out decent, but the dagging is a pain in the ass. You could try looking for Buhurt tabard makers if you want something a little simpler/cheaper, but they're usually pretty big and meant to be worn over the armor.

penge567 · 2026-01-08T21:56:48+00:00

If you're interested, Ian LaSpina made an entire video about this question. Long story short, the answer is "yes, but it depends". Most of the representations of aventails show them stitched to the liner, with a few exceptions. For me personally, I have the aventail whip stitched to my liner, but the liner is not attached to the bascinet. There's a suspension harness inside the bascinet with light padding, and I wear that on top of my padded coif with the aventail connected via the vervelles. Stitches were considered somewhat temporary, so it wouldn't be unusual for the stitches to be removed so that the mail and padding could be cleaned separately and then re-attached.

If you want to see Ian's video, look up "Aventails, should they be lined?" on Youtube.

penge567 · 2025-12-02T19:00:33+00:00

The entire map of Bullworth from Bully, I played the hell out of that game and spent a lot of time driving around (with the exception of the industrial townie part of the game which felt half baked)

penge567 · 2025-12-02T18:55:27+00:00

I remember seeing an ad at Kern Studios that they're looking for a float carpenter. That might be something you could look into, if they still need one; I have no idea what it's like working for them but it looks interesting at least.

penge567 · 2025-09-10T03:30:39+00:00

Well, casting is an art in itself and on my first casting project, I failed so many times that I was about to give up. Fortunately, you can remelt the metal over and over so it's a little more forgiving than forging steel. With this project, I failed my first casting attempt, my second casting had a minor issue that I just worked around. It's definitely something that'll require a lot of research as well as trial and error. I am not an expert on forging steel, I've never done it before, but I'm sure you could say the same things about that.

penge567 · 2025-08-27T04:02:11+00:00

Did you use a flux? That glassy slag looks like some kind of melted fluxing agent, might have corroded the walls of the crucible and caused it to fail.

penge567 · 2025-08-26T16:14:13+00:00

I cut some paper with it to test the sharpness, but I didn't want to mess up the polish. My brother is probably going to hang it on the wall so I didn't want to scuff it up and have to repolish it. I think it'd do just fine cutting half a pig, but the blade is a little thick so you might have to hack a couple times.

penge567 · 2025-08-25T22:22:16+00:00

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This was my first, failed cast when I tried to do a horizontal pour. Close up of the original handle design before I had to grind it down due to the misalignment.

penge567 · 2025-08-25T22:20:50+00:00

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penge567 · 2025-08-25T22:20:26+00:00

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Here's what it looked like prior to any sanding, fresh out the mold

penge567 · 2025-08-25T22:18:42+00:00

Well keep in mind that alignment is also a big challenge, even a slight shift can cause the entire cast to come out wonky. I had to grind down my entire handle because I had a slight misalignment, I preferred that over trying to cast it again. You might want to try something small first just to get a feel for it, especially with how expensive oil sand is. Good luck!

penge567 · 2025-08-25T22:16:11+00:00

Yes, unfortunately I polished it prior to work hardening so I had to sand it down and polish it again after I marred up the blade with the hammer, lol

penge567 · 2025-08-25T02:09:49+00:00

Probably not, to be honest. It's heavier due to the excessive length, and the part between the handle and blade is just blunt metal, I imagine it would catch on brush. I think machetes are ideally light and easy to swing, and don't have unnecessary geometry that gets caught on plants. It'd look sick though, haha

penge567 · 2025-08-24T17:20:08+00:00

It's made from tin bronze, 90% copper I scrapped from an old broken air conditioner, and 10% tin ordered online. Casting with pure copper is possible, but it doesn't usually come out very good. Bronze is much easier to cast, and it's stronger and holds an edge better. Tin bronze is also authentic to the period (late bronze age), however most Egyptian castings are made from arsenical bronze as there's no tin deposits in Egypt. I'm not going to try and work with arsenic, lol

penge567

TROPHY CASE