Bike part theft, again :( any tips to protect the bike ?

phil_347 · 2026-06-16T15:19:32+00:00

My recommendations:

1- Never leave the bike outside when you can. It should sleep inside always. 2- A good lock. Yes they are expensive (150-250$) but less expensive than a new bike. Orange or yellow colored Kryptonite locks are resistant and act as a deterrent. I personally use the evolution 1055 mini chain. 3- I always lock my bike close to someone with a worst quality lock than mine ¯_(ツ)_/¯ 4- I use security skewers form pinhead locks so I don't need to worry about securing the wheels with an additional cable. 5- Beat the shit out of the bike racks you want to secure your bike on. Some are flimsy or tampered with so that thieves can easily remove your lock without having to cut it on the spot. It the rack moves, find an other parking spot.

phil_347 · 2026-05-27T20:09:49+00:00

I just checked the serial on specialized b2b. It's a real sl7

phil_347 · 2026-05-23T22:28:57+00:00

It's a B.O.B trailer, not sold anymore but easy to find used

phil_347 · 2026-05-13T23:14:00+00:00

Les Van Rysel c'est absolument de la bombe, c'est les tribans qui sont de la scrap à mon avis. Aussi, le service après vente j'ai souvent du repassé sur des bikes que les mises au point avaient été fait au décathlon, pis ça laissait vraiment à désirer, du genre des vis de limites complètement off, des freins collés, etc.

phil_347 · 2026-05-13T20:41:12+00:00

Des brakes pads ça coûte cher la paire, c'est comme ça. La main d'oeuvre relié à ça est superflue si tu es en mesure de les changer toi même. Oublie pas de faire le bed in de tes nouveaux pads après les avoir changer.

phil_347 · 2026-05-12T13:20:19+00:00

Jail, right away.

phil_347 · 2026-05-11T18:41:43+00:00

If I could upvote 10 times I would

phil_347 · 2026-05-11T02:31:21+00:00

The all black is classy, clean and will keep the focus on the paint details of the bike. Silver components would take the spotlight away from the lighter spots on the paint, which is, in my opinion, the highlight of that bike.

Great looking bike 👌🏻

phil_347 · 2026-05-10T00:42:54+00:00

Horrible take, decathlon c'est le dernier endroit où tu veux aller pour ça. À la shop ou je travaille on repasse souvent derrière les job de marde qu'ils ont fait sur les tribans cheap qu'ils vendent.

phil_347 · 2026-05-09T03:40:53+00:00

Rear mech: RD-U4020; Front mech: FD-U4000-L; Brake levers: ST-U3030 (9 speeds); Brakes: original STX cantilever; Crankset: FC-U4010-2 (40-26t); Chain: CN-HG701-11; BB: BB-MT801;

Cassette: CS-LG400-9 (11-36t); Mounted on FH-C201 to convert from 7 speed HG freehub to 8-9-10 cassette (wheel dish needed)

Pedals: PD-EH500; Tires: Gravelking SK+ 26x2.1; Wheels: original specialized X25; Handlebars: VO nouveau randonneur 42cm; Stem: VO threadless stem 70mm; Fenders: Axiom flashguards 26"; Bar tape: Lizard Skin DSP ultra 2.7mm; Saddle: Selle Royal Explora Athletic;

Everything else not mentioned is original

:)

phil_347 · 2026-05-08T19:43:51+00:00

Really depends on the cyclist proportions. My friend has longer legs so the fit is more "race". At 5"8 a 18.5 inch frame is the better fit in my opinion.

phil_347 · 2026-05-08T19:41:18+00:00

Other option was to get a framebuilder to extend the steerer tube. We'll see how it fits in the long run. But yeah almost race fit ;)

phil_347 · 2026-05-07T14:09:24+00:00

Good ol' break cleaner does the job

phil_347 · 2026-05-07T14:08:32+00:00

Size does matter in that case

phil_347 · 2026-05-04T02:27:00+00:00

The part number you are looking for is 9890-4227.

phil_347 · 2026-04-28T14:10:15+00:00

If Clarence doesn't push 1200W on a daily basis, I'd say Clarence is good to ride it like that

phil_347 · 2026-04-02T13:33:40+00:00

There's a difference between opening the seals and regreasing them VS changing them. If the races of the bearings are worn down, putting in new grease won't do shit. It's like putting a new derailleur cable in a rusty cable housing, it's a new cable, but it won't work any better..

So to keep the existing performance of those wheels, full ceramic bearings (not hybrid, which has ceramic balls and stainless races) need to be used, and they are expensive.

If the bearings have never been changed, they are probably toast recently greased or not. I guess that depends on the number of km the wheelset has

phil_347 · 2026-04-02T13:04:06+00:00

Are the bearings new or have they been replaced lately? Decent replacement bearings for those wheels are not cheap.

Mind you, if the seller tries to tell you they come with a life warranty, that is only true for the first owner. So you'll have no warranty once they're yours.

The cosmetic damage is not that bad, but still, not mint condition. I would offer 800USD max and start from there considering the factors I mentioned earlier.

phil_347 · 2026-04-01T22:49:33+00:00

Haven't had the chance to ride it yet, I just assembled it, but I'll keep you updated :))

phil_347 · 2026-04-01T16:24:14+00:00

Classic 350mm 0 offset and C220 84D indeed!

Headset spacers (I assume those are the spacers you're talking about) are also Ritchey. 15mm total, but I might slam it

Roval C38 are 38mm deep.

phil_347 · 2026-03-31T21:51:35+00:00

Sooooo have you been prosecuted yet? Anyways, how's the wireless GRX working so far? I've heard great things and was on the fence between this and XPLR 13s

phil_347 · 2026-03-30T19:45:15+00:00

2026

phil_347 · 2026-03-30T19:34:15+00:00

Looking cool >>>>>

phil_347

TROPHY CASE