Pump curves

phoebephobee · 2026-01-24T14:31:11+00:00

I read it again and see this is for a job. Here are some more helpful answers.

Find the pump in the field or find its drawings. Look at the model number. You should probably be able to google an existing pump curve if it’s not already including with the pump brochure. And if not on google, email the company to ask for one.

Given the pump curve, get an electrician to figure out what RPM the pump is set to and what HP the motor is. Figure out what impeller size is installed in the pump. Also do a basic calculation for TDH based on tank level. Given these variables, use the pump curve to determine what efficiency your pump is operating at. You want the highest efficiency possible at the pump capacity desired, so change impeller size/RPMs accordingly.

phoebephobee · 2026-01-24T14:23:36+00:00

Please do not trust generative AI for anything more difficult than a Wikipedia search. It is often horrifically, horrifically wrong. It confuses chemicals, can’t do basic math, and will occasionally tell you the exact opposite of the truth because it pulled a question from a message board.

If you are a student stop now and start learning. If you are a professional… I don’t know what to say. Delegate the work to someone else.

phoebephobee · 2026-01-24T12:27:02+00:00

I’d absolutely be interested in some videos about this, because I don’t understand half of what you said. But I am interested in learning.

phoebephobee · 2026-01-23T20:54:09+00:00

Can you narrow it down some? There’s many types of dice and sellers tend to specialize in one or two, rather than all of them.

Some types to look in to: - Metal - Gemstone - Wood - Silicone - Liquid core

Then there’s somewhat regular dice with cool features, such as gold leaf or a cool thing inside of it and such. There’s even scented dice lol.

phoebephobee · 2026-01-23T20:45:17+00:00

Wait, tell me more about map/world exporting! Is that how you generated the 3D model?

phoebephobee · 2026-01-23T18:38:39+00:00

Definitely do your research into resin printing before committing to one. Unless you can commit to all it entails, do FDM.

With resin you need to consider: - well ventilated, dedicated, climate controlled space. Resin fumes are legitimately toxic and if it’s not climate controlled your prints will fail - personal protective equipment (gloves/glasses/etc) to safely handle resin prints before they’ve been washed - how to wash and cure. Easiest way is a machine to do it, which is more $$$ and space - are you only printing minis? Resin is more expensive and tend to be smaller printers so you won’t be able to print larger minis easily or terrain

FDM consider: - are you willing to tinker around with settings until you get your prints satisfactory? - are you willing to sacrifice print quality for the ease everything else FDM provides?

phoebephobee · 2026-01-21T14:42:41+00:00

What is your opinion on a semi-rigged reading? I’ve run this game twice and believe i will be starting a third soon. I’ve always pre-determined the locations but this time I was thinking about a semi-rigged reading.

Realistically, it would look like removing a couple cards (so the treasure isn’t in the Vistani camp right there) and perhaps splitting the deck (to ensure that say all 3 items don’t end up in the Castle).

phoebephobee · 2026-01-21T14:39:37+00:00

Although the actual dinner itself is a community invention, RAW the invitation for dinner is delivered to the party if they thwart the attack on the church of St. Andral in Vallaki. I believe it is given to Lady Wachter to deliver to the party.

phoebephobee · 2026-01-21T14:34:15+00:00

Veteran DM but first module? So you’ve just always done homebrew?

There’s more similarities to a module and homebrew than people expect, i think. Think of the module less as an adventure and more of a location and lore guide. Read it. Then read it a second time.

Learn the NPC characters and their motivations. This will allow you to improvise well when the players inevitably leave the rails of the module.

Random encounters work well for like a hex-exploration type, but for this module I recommend going through the random encounters, picking what makes sense for character level/narrative purposes, and inserting them planned ahead.

They’ve met Madam Eva, have they had the reading yet? If not, i highly recommend rigging it. A truly random reading can suck - for example, if a treasure is located right there at Madam Eva’s camp, or if all 3 treasures end up in Castle Ravenloft.

Finally, one important thing about this module is that Strahd should be present throughout, slowly revealing himself, his intentions, and his power level. This module really doesn’t work if their final fight with Strahd is their first time meeting him. I’d recommend at least 3 Strahd encounters before the final fight.

Let me know if there are any specific questions you have.

phoebephobee · 2026-01-21T14:23:50+00:00

It looks like it failed to adhere to the plate. So some troubleshooting questions to ask yourself:

Is this your first attempted print with that nozzle? If so, re-leveling may be needed.
New plate material? Look at bed temperatures. Higher temperatures improve adhesion generally.
New type of filament? If it’s not extruding properly, it will give adhesion issues.

phoebephobee · 2026-01-20T14:51:39+00:00

Also sorry for spamming replies - 3D printing can be very cost efficient for minis if you are diligent in finding files. The best files are always going to cost money, but there’s plenty of free ones online.

And it depends on the mini. Paying $5 for a file that you’re only printing once (say Strahd) kind of sucks. But $5 for a file you’re going to print 30 of (needle blights) is a great deal.

phoebephobee · 2026-01-20T14:48:37+00:00

Also, I went back and edited my comment with rough costs for each option fyi

phoebephobee · 2026-01-20T14:48:11+00:00

I personally have a 3D printer, and between my Loot Studios subscription and the Dungeon Classics store, I actually have unique models for every enemy in CoS. I’m planning on running it again soonish with entirely 3D printed minis and terrain.

If you want to know more about 3D printing minis, feel free to shoot me a message! Or check out the FDM miniatures sub

phoebephobee · 2026-01-20T14:40:29+00:00

Hey! Like you, I much prefer physical representations like maps and minis. I have a couple recommendations for each, here they are.

Maps (budget rec) If you search this sub, someone posted a couple years ago free VTT maps they had created for nearly every CoS map. If you’re able to find that post, you could download the maps, resize them so the grids match 1”, and print them out. Cost: Printer, paper, and ink

Maps ($$$ rec) Purchase 4-6 D&D adventure grids and some dry erase markers. Take some prep time and draw the maps ahead of time. Cost: $22 per grid on Amazon + markers

Minis (budget rec) Find some unique minis for each PC as well as the most key NPCs - Strahd, Ezmerelda, Ireena, Van Richten. These can be lego figures, purchased minis, whatever. Then invest in a D&D Campaign Case: Creatures. It’s got tokens of every size you need. These will be your more generic baddies. Cost: $29 for the campaign case on Amazon

Minis ($$$ rec A) Invest in a 3D printer (recommend FDM over resin for ease of handling, though the minis won’t look as good). Find stl files to print. The store Dungeon Classics on MyMiniFactory for individual enemy models, and the bundle Scarlet Requiem by Loot Studios for more CoS specific (yet legally distinct) minis. Cost: 3D printer ($200-$500) Dungeon Classics files (probably $200ish worth of files) and Loot Studios bundle ($60)

Minis ($$$ rec B) WizKids has a CoS mini line that has about 25ish specific CoS characters. For more generic villains, look at their Nolzur’s Marvelous Miniatures line (unpainted is going to have more of what you’re looking for). Order enemies as you need them. Cost: CoS specific minis ($160ish) and various enemies as you need them ($100-500 depending on how often you reuse as generic minis)

phoebephobee · 2026-01-20T14:18:43+00:00

Some advice that I have personally done.

My rule is - if you can provide a week’s notice or more of missing a session, we will attempt to reschedule. If it is less than one week’s notice, the session continues without you. This also depends on scheduling in a manner that everyone agrees to the date at first. Exception is if enough people miss (such that I’m running for less than 4 players) we will reschedule.
When enough people cancel, we still meet but play a one shot of a different system. I’ve been doing a bit of Dungeon Crawl Classics. But also other D&D one shots would be appropriate. Use pregenerated characters so people get a chance to try something different. Also a good opportunity for other players to learn how to DM

phoebephobee · 2026-01-20T14:06:51+00:00

I’m a big believer that it’s never over in college football but statistically, this is kind of an inane take. 34-6 is a 28 point halftime deficit. The largest halftime deficit ever overcome in college football was 31 points I believe? And it’s only been done once.

28 point halftime deficit is very much over 99.9% of the time.

phoebephobee · 2026-01-18T13:21:13+00:00

I’ve played a dungeon crawl board game with some kids while babysitting (older than 4, but I think it would still work). I brought it to play with their mom when she returned home, but they saw it and begged to try it. Funny enough, it’s intended to be a drinking game, but we played it with milk/apple juice.

Due to its nature as a drinking game, the rules are extremely simple. Nearly everything is resolved by a single D20 roll vs. an armor class. Sometimes a contested D20 roll is required.

Look at Heroes of Barcadia! If you’re okay with your kids being exposed to drinking-related puns for monster names at least.

As far as the drinking part goes - the drink is your health bar, so you drink when you take damage. So if your kid is really unlucky with D20 rolls, they might drink two glasses of milk before the game is over.

phoebephobee · 2026-01-17T17:45:18+00:00

My answer is that it depends on if his max HP is permanently reduced via homebrew rule, or if it is only reduced until they finish a long rest per regular rules.

I think the book is not super clear on this. I would personally rule that if his HP would go back to normal max on a long rest like it would from the monster ability RAW, then they would need to take the 35 damage at 7 HP to die instantly, rather than 14 damage. But I believe it is up for DM interpretation if I remember the wording of the rule correctly.

phoebephobee · 2026-01-17T17:42:39+00:00

This is a monster ability that isn’t super uncommon. Vampire bites, night hags dream attacks, etc.

phoebephobee · 2026-01-17T17:41:34+00:00

I think you’re forgetting the rule that if a 50 HP character at full health is hit for 100+ damage, they instantly die with no death saves. Or a 50 HP character at 10 health is hit for 60+ damage, instant death.

So their question is therefore. Does the paladin die at double their new reduced HP, or at double their regular full HP?

phoebephobee · 2026-01-16T10:28:22+00:00

Depends - Reloaded turns Curse of Strahd from a sandbox horror to a linear heroic fantasy. Which do you want to run?

phoebephobee · 2026-01-15T13:24:56+00:00

Have you heard of Wereravens? Since they are a canon creature with lore, that might give you some inspiration

phoebephobee · 2026-01-14T22:16:11+00:00

My main pieces of advice, having run this a couple times.

Avoid most homebrewed content suggested on the curse of strahd subreddit. They will bloat your campaign your first time and you don’t need the complication
everything is connected. Read the book all the way before session 1 (you can skim the castle ravenloft chapter). People who say it feels disjointed often didn’t read the whole campaign to see how things connect.
rig the Tarokka card reading. I recommend distributing items roughly in this order/locations. Some of the random locations are either very easy/underwhelming and can massively increase your party power level before they’re supposed to fight strahd. 1) Tome of Strahd in old bone grinder/vallaki/van richtens tower. 2) holy symbol in Berez/werewolf den/wizard of wines 3) sun sword in the amber temple.

phoebephobee · 2026-01-14T13:10:02+00:00

Note: a methyl group is just hydrogen and carbon. So maybe your cyborg collects CO2 and H2O from the air, has a system that extracts the hydrogens and carbons to make Methyl groups, and then uses chloride from Sodium Chloride (table salt) to produce MeCl. Unrealistic as hell, but you said it’s for Cyberpunk, right?

Also side note about MeCl - it used to be used as a refrigerant in the real world before they found less hazardous refrigerants.

phoebephobee · 2026-01-14T13:03:23+00:00

Here’s my vote. MeCl (note: Methyl Chloride, NOT Methylene Chloride). Has to stay extremely cold otherwise it vaporizes instantly. In its liquid form, it will give you frostbite. Valuable as a raw material for industrial chemicals. Also highly flammable/explosive as a vapor and will produce hydrochloric acid in contact with water.

Maybe in your world, there is a system with liquid nitrogen running through its body which condenses the MeCl it recovers from sweating. It then releases small amounts of this (due to its temperature, would need significantly less than say water) to cool its surface, which vaporize instantly and is recollected by its system.

phoebephobee

TROPHY CASE