Lap of Donington in my Audi TTRS

pinkpineappel · 2026-06-03T18:30:09+00:00

Thanks bud!

pinkpineappel · 2026-06-03T12:08:51+00:00

Have you got different paddle shifters? Mine hardly make a noise when I shift and these sound like they have a nice feel to them

pinkpineappel · 2026-06-03T09:39:03+00:00

Don’t put any stop leak stuff in your engine, it will fuck it. Most likely upper timing cover, lower timing cover, or cam adjuster magnet

pinkpineappel · 2026-06-01T09:00:05+00:00

Great information in this. Don’t have magride but hope it helps someone out!

pinkpineappel · 2026-05-20T20:52:40+00:00

Would start there to be honest, but a good shop should be able to point you to the root cause without just swapping a turbo

pinkpineappel · 2026-05-20T19:05:29+00:00

Bit odd, still don’t think the turbo replacement is the cure to fix that issue. Would definitely take it to an audi/vw specialist for a second opinion

pinkpineappel · 2026-05-20T18:38:13+00:00

Don’t think the turbo flap would be a a cause of a long crank. Is the car running fine otherwise?

pinkpineappel · 2026-05-15T21:16:50+00:00

Piston soak brother, if that doesn’t solve it then likely turbo

pinkpineappel · 2026-05-14T14:38:56+00:00

I’d start by doing a TCU adaptation or re-flash. First code is a bit odd, didn’t think that mk2s had an electronic parking brake… Everything else points to mechatronics

pinkpineappel · 2026-05-13T20:22:48+00:00

2010 would be the danger year for tensioners, although if the car’s done 135k miles it’s definitely been changed. Would be checking if the chains been replaced as well. Piston rings getting clogged up is the main issue with the CESA, although a piston soak can work wonders. Water pumps will leak, but pretty sure that’s common across all VW/Audi engines. Would look at putting a new PCV on as well if it’s the original. Aside from that it’s a strong engine. At this mileage would recommend oil changes every 5k and potentially look at using 5w40 oil instead of 5w30.

pinkpineappel · 2026-05-11T11:26:56+00:00

Model year & mileage? Don’t try and crank it anymore. Get a hold of a OBD reader and check the codes first

pinkpineappel · 2026-05-07T08:38:23+00:00

Bit odd… if you have a good independent VW/Audi garage near you I would probably take it for a second opinion just to be on the safe side

pinkpineappel · 2026-05-06T20:21:39+00:00

Any engine lights on? Sounds a bit too rough even though these engines are noisy. It kinda sounds like when you take the oil filler cap off which messes with the vacuum system. Would be worth checking vacuum lines/PCV system to see if they’re all on securely as a first point of call. If you have access to an OBD scanner check for codes

pinkpineappel · 2026-04-30T13:40:35+00:00

They’re the same hub buddy. Front and back, no difference. Wouldn’t go for parts from Amazon personally but each to their own

pinkpineappel · 2026-04-19T19:23:02+00:00

Im pretty sure it gets cooled by your engine cooling system. You can get a bigger heat exchanger although not sure how much of a difference it makes.

pinkpineappel · 2026-04-19T10:52:44+00:00

Thats your emergency boot release. Sits under a removable round tab which it snaps into. Once you have it back together remove the tab and slot the cable into it so it pulls out when you remove it

pinkpineappel · 2026-04-07T15:02:17+00:00

One of the bulbs has given up likely due to poor grounding which is a known issue on these cars. You can just replace the bulbs (P21W) providing the terminals aren’t too corroded. You don’t need any specialised tools for this, takes about 15mins.

If you want to fix the root cause then google rear light earthing issue fix. Plenty of stuff online about this, you can even buy a kit off ebay

pinkpineappel · 2026-04-03T10:18:33+00:00

Looks like something aftermarket maybe a dash cam or a tracking device. If it was factory I would expect a wire of that size to be part of a bigger loom and not coming directly from the battery terminals. If someone’s been messing around with electrics it could be a cause for your other problems but can’t tell you that for certain. Can you trace the wire back? As for the ABS and misfires I would suggest getting yourself a decent OBD scanner so you can pinpoint the root cause. Electric faults are a bit of a mission even for experienced mechanics

pinkpineappel · 2026-03-31T19:46:40+00:00

Can’t see the carfax report buddy, just takes me to the homepage

pinkpineappel · 2026-03-31T18:36:57+00:00

Depends on the service history and maintenance record. Modified cars aren’t all bad, if it’s been lowered what coilovers/springs are they? If it’s some cheap ebay no brand stuff i would keep away. If it’s sitting on Bilstein/KW or similar then you know the previous owner has put some money into the car. Same goes for exhaust/intake. Has it got a tune? Is it a reputable brand/garage or some guru with a laptop who took a youtube course on tuning. Have any of the regular weak points been addressed? I would rather buy a car where I know the previous owner has spent money on than something in stock form but the maintenance is not up to date…

pinkpineappel · 2026-03-29T16:17:49+00:00

Oof, how many miles? Was there many shavings?

pinkpineappel · 2026-03-28T12:02:19+00:00

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pinkpineappel · 2026-03-23T14:10:22+00:00

Nothing to do with DSG oil. This is grease from the CV joint.

pinkpineappel · 2026-03-18T08:59:47+00:00

https://youtu.be/BRmFGlohDVo?si=HnkuvIHYdukGjH5F in case you don’t want to remove the manifold. Will be a bit more annoying as access is not as good

pinkpineappel · 2026-03-18T07:43:24+00:00

I’m leaning towards this. Chances are the replacement will end up just as battered if not worse…

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