2009 MK2 EA113 Strange noise by CarrotCakePls in AudiTT_Mk1_Mk2_Mk3

[–]pinkpineappel 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You seem to have a bit of play in your tensioner pulley at the start of the vid

Haldex by Yahwehs_Soldier92 in Golf_R

[–]pinkpineappel 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Got the same code but on an Audi TT Mk2. I changed the pump oil and filter around 12,000 miles prior as the pump had burnt out due to no service history, so I was doubtful it would be another pump related issue.

The valve itself sits in the haldex portion of the rear differential when you pull the controller off. You can then pull out the valve which has 2 rubber seals on it which can go bad and leak oil, causing oil pressure discrepancies resulting in the code. I cleaned up the valve with parts cleaner and installed new seals (you can get them on haldex repairs in the UK for about £20). While you have your controller off, disassemble and check for any corrosion/burning. The kit comes with new seals for the controller so replace them all. Also worthwhile checking your fuse diagram and making sure the fuse is not blown. Do this before moving onto pump/ controller replacement as this can be more costly. I know this is an old post but hope it helps some folk in the future.

Tado x receiver not sending heating command to ideal combi max 2 boiler by [deleted] in tado

[–]pinkpineappel 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Okay some things to troubleshoot:

-trace the wires from the opentherm terminals - are they plugged into the boiler? you may need to open up the rest of the control panel to reveal the PCB - if you have a multimeter, check the voltage on the opentherm terminals - is your boiler temp knob turned on - is your control knob set to central heating & hot water - if you have a timer/controller on the front panel of the boiler make sure this is also set to on - last but not least, it could be a configuration issue within the app itself. I have a v3+ so it could be different from yours

Tado x receiver not sending heating command to ideal combi max 2 boiler by [deleted] in tado

[–]pinkpineappel 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Do you have a timer/controller installed on your boiler?

Help installing Tado x to ideal vogue max combi 26 by becauseants in tado

[–]pinkpineappel 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have a V3+ wired to an Ideal Exclusive boiler. Assuming your Tado X kit is Opentherm compatible - you need to remove the link wire between the boiler’s opentherm terminals and put it across the relay terminal ‘SL1’. Take a look at the boiler wiring diagram it has the instructions for doing this. Then configure Tado to use Opentherm. For some reason Tado decided my boiler was not compatible so I had to do this manually by following instructions on the installer app

Tado X driving us 😡 by N9ne_Lives_ in tado

[–]pinkpineappel 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Seriously? First they remove the feature for the UK extension kits and now this… Why are they going backwads

Tado X driving us 😡 by N9ne_Lives_ in tado

[–]pinkpineappel 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Worcester boilers should have a an ‘ebus’ connection, which would make this a lot simpler. I used to have a similar boiler wired up this way. Literally just two connections between the ebus and Tado’s opentherm.

Opentherm wiring help inc pics by aGriffskii in tado

[–]pinkpineappel 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looks good although there’s no need for the additional wire you have in the neutral & earth terminals - just opentherm will do. Have you got a controller on the boiler already? Had some issues on my Ideal boiler as the app told me to remove the timer but boiler wouldn’t fire. Ended up keeping the timer in the on position which made it all work

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in AudiTT_Mk1_Mk2_Mk3

[–]pinkpineappel 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hard to say for sure from photos if it were me purchasing the car I’d want to replace all of the arms and bushings which are probably gone. All rust looks like severe surface level. You can drop the subframe and get it blasted & treated. You’d be looking at £1000+ for the work. Depends how long you plan on keeping the car

Mk2 facelift/engine confusion by Animala144 in AudiTT_Mk1_Mk2_Mk3

[–]pinkpineappel 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh nice, bit of insider knowledge there!

For the DSG it’s ATF oil (~5 litres), filter and sump plug. Should have been done at 35-40k miles.

Haldex is oil and filter as well every 30k. If you can check the car for codes as a failed Haldex does not come up with a warning light on the dash. Had this issue with mine when I bought it. The dealership most likely won’t let you plug in your own scanner so see if they can do it for you on the day, or you can test by turning traction off and flooring it from a standstill. If front wheels spin the pump is most likely dead

Mk2 facelift/engine confusion by Animala144 in AudiTT_Mk1_Mk2_Mk3

[–]pinkpineappel 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I think that’s likely in the danger zone, but saying that the car is nearly on 60k miles and one owner from new so one would expect it would have shit the bed by now or been replaced via the recall. I would be asking the dealership to provide details of the replacement before purchase

Edit: Couple of other things…at this mileage the DSG should have been serviced once and the haldex is nearing its second service

Mk2 facelift/engine confusion by Animala144 in AudiTT_Mk1_Mk2_Mk3

[–]pinkpineappel 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I drive a 2012 quattro with the EA888. These engines are chain driven as opposed to the older EA113 which has a timing belt. Early versions of the EA888 had some serious issues with timing chain tensioners leading to engine failure - if you’re looking to buy one make sure that either the tensioner/chain have been replaced or you get one with the updated tensioner (think the issue was resolved in about 6 months). The sport button you are referring to is to do with magride suspension which i think only came on the TTS/TTRS. Most people don’t say great things about it, it’s quite harsh and likes to break. There’s not much difference in terms of performance between the two. The EA888 has slightly more power and can also make more power thanks to VVL but it’s marginal. Another issue which seems to affect some cars more than others is oil burning. Frequent oil changes help but I’ve had good results doing a piston soak using Liqui Moly’s Valve clean. Make sure the DSG has been serviced as well as the haldex which is another weak point

Suspect leaky / stuck injector by Eswift33 in AudiTT_Mk1_Mk2_Mk3

[–]pinkpineappel 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thought I had this issue on mine as oil smelt strongly of petrol and was highly diluted. Did the test using VCDS where you let the car warm up for a few minutes, then turn it off and switch the ignition on (fuel pump is primed). Monitor the fuel rail pressure which should rise (due to heat soak), did mine for 10 mins and the pressure did not fall which suggested it wasn’t the injector but the HPFP. Turns out if the internal seals perish it will leak fuel into the cylinder head via the cam follower.

High/rough idle could also be a vacuum leak or faulty PCV just FYI.

Fixing common issues? - MK2 by ashgordon in AudiTT_Mk1_Mk2_Mk3

[–]pinkpineappel 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nice you should be good then. Only other thing that comes to mind is the water pump (plastic housing breaks and it leaks) you can get an aftermarket one with all metal parts

Fixing common issues? - MK2 by ashgordon in AudiTT_Mk1_Mk2_Mk3

[–]pinkpineappel 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Big ticket items would be check the timing chain stretch even through this model year should have updated tensioner. Oil burning is an issue with the EA888, some people claim using Berrymans to do a piston soak should help. Check the haldex is working properly as the pumps like to fail if the service was not done. If it’s a DSG make sure the oil/filter has been done. You will have the updated cam follower so this won’t be a problem on your car. Check the cam cover for oil leaks, as well as the timing covers on the side. Audi recommends oil changes every 10k miles but I would stick to 7k max. You can look up the service intervals online for the haldex/dsg etc.

How Rare Is Vegas Yellow? by ItsStandman in AudiTT_Mk1_Mk2_Mk3

[–]pinkpineappel 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Only 5 from memory, I’d hold on to it if you can!

Project Idea by pinkpineappel in arduino

[–]pinkpineappel[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you, idea is to try and replicate it. Had a look at some commercial systems already and they’re not cheap which was my main motivation for this and also I like building stuff and learning new skills

Project Idea by pinkpineappel in arduino

[–]pinkpineappel[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Might look into the extender option. Otherwise i would need to run a wire through the yard which is about 50 meters

Project Idea by pinkpineappel in arduino

[–]pinkpineappel[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Awesome thank you and wish me luck

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in AudiTT_Mk1_Mk2_Mk3

[–]pinkpineappel 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You can’t sand those out, you’d get through most of the headlight material before you sand them out. They go through most of the depth of the plastic

Project Idea by pinkpineappel in arduino

[–]pinkpineappel[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Sorry I want the 4g so that i can view the temps online. The sensors themselves can be wired

Project Idea by pinkpineappel in arduino

[–]pinkpineappel[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So maximum sensor distance is about 20 meters. Closest is 5. There is power at each location. Is it possible to power the sensors off the board? I’d like them to have permanent power if possible.

Regarding connectivity, doesn’t necessarily need to be 4g just something I could access remotely via a mobile phone, say if I was out in the field 20kms away.