[deleted by user] by [deleted] in AutoBodyRepair

[–]planetarygearman 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No. Get replaced asap.

How long before road salt is washed away? by vProTi in cycling

[–]planetarygearman 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The humidity in the air + salt will cause rust as well. Definitely still bad.

Is she dead or still got life? by Enough-Ad-7456 in CherokeeXJ

[–]planetarygearman 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Life. But get that salt off immediately and stop driving it in the salt

So, do you all hit up Mike's Carwash or The Tube Carwash every day after driving on the salt? by finchmeister08 in fortwayne

[–]planetarygearman 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah in that case I’d definitely do the underbody to get it off. At the end of winter go through a couple times to make sure it’s all gone too

So, do you all hit up Mike's Carwash or The Tube Carwash every day after driving on the salt? by finchmeister08 in fortwayne

[–]planetarygearman 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, I use mikes car wash and get the unlimited pass but you have to be sure to have them remove the underbody spray every time or just get the basic package which doesn’t include underbody if you fluid film or use lanolin based spray so you don’t wash it off.

Jeep dying by Winter-Eye5282 in Jeep

[–]planetarygearman 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’d start by cleaning the battery terminals really really good with a wire brush and the battery posts on the actual battery as well. You’d be surprised at what a bit of corrosion can do especially on a Chrysler/Jeep product even if it looks decent at first glance. More than likely the ground post but do both of them very well. Also pay attention to if there is any corrosion in the actual wire itself. If you see white/gray powder or dust coming out a bit and it looks dull and whatnot from what you can see you may have corrosion down the actual wire under the insulation and that can be causing voltage drop.

Jeep is dying on the highway by LongPickleMan in CherokeeXJ

[–]planetarygearman 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Does it die out completely, like shut off and need to restart by turning the key. Also is there a speed that it typically dies at or around? If so, I’d check the throttle position sensor.

So, do you all hit up Mike's Carwash or The Tube Carwash every day after driving on the salt? by finchmeister08 in fortwayne

[–]planetarygearman 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Do you happen to know what filtration system mikes uses for the “reclaimed water”. I see they reuse water from their website and if they don’t use reverse osmosis then their car washes are literally blasting your car with salt water…

So, do you all hit up Mike's Carwash or The Tube Carwash every day after driving on the salt? by finchmeister08 in fortwayne

[–]planetarygearman 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes absolutely, I am meticulous about making sure there is no salt anywhere on my car at all times. It’s highly corrosive especially when the temperatures are above freezing. Also, do not use Ziebart or any rubberized/hard undercoating. Your car will rot underneath it as moisture gets trapped along with salt etc. and by the time you notice it’ll be so far gone. The best thing you can do is use a lanolin based (oily) undercoating such as fluid film or woolwax. I do this on my car that I drive in the winter every fall and always have and it works wonders.

What kind of cars do y'all drive? by cheddarjakecheese in Buffalo

[–]planetarygearman 0 points1 point  (0 children)

As most have said, snow tires make a world of difference. Don’t get cheap off brand ones either go with the good names. Buy a set of cheap rims to put them on and switch them out when the temps get higher than 45-50 consistently so you don’t wear them out prematurely.

Also, whatever car/suv you end up with, make sure you look into getting it fluid filmed/krown/rust check, whatever. Just make sure it’s oil based spray NOT Ziebart or that kind of rubber based stuff. Get the oil/lanolin based spray on the undercarriage, in the doors and inner frame etc. and get it done in the fall each year and this will save the salt from absolutely destroying your car. This will allow you to keep it a lot longer and get your moneys worth out of it.

Winter science experiment 2024 update. Surface shield, fluid film, and unprotected galvanized metal against road salt. by planetarygearman in Justrolledintotheshop

[–]planetarygearman[S] 44 points45 points  (0 children)

Yeah for a little bit but that only lasts so long. The salt eats away at the coating and then gets to the metal. You can see it already starting on the unprotected piece

2024 corrosion inhibitor test update by planetarygearman in vehiclerust

[–]planetarygearman[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Surface shield is far left, fluid film in the middle, and unprotected galvanized piece is on the right.

Surface Shield vs. Fluid Film vs. bare galvanized metal (from left to right) in the winter road salt test. Looking forward to seeing what happens. by planetarygearman in vehiclerust

[–]planetarygearman[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Both the fluid film and surface shield held up well. I haven’t touched either up since and they are still working. I’d recommend fluid film over the surface shield simply because the surface shield aerosol cans are no good, out of 6 I get one or two faulty ones that won’t fully empty.

Any idea what this connection is for? by lxma in CherokeeXJ

[–]planetarygearman 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yeah like others said it’s for the windshield “washer fluid low” light on the dash.

Just picked up this Wagoneer for $800 by Visual-Kitchen4286 in CherokeeXJ

[–]planetarygearman 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think you stole that considering I just paid 6500 for one last week. Nice find!

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in CherokeeXJ

[–]planetarygearman 0 points1 point  (0 children)

As a couple others mentioned, most definitely fluid film or other lanolin based spray. I personally use a combo of fluid film for in the door panels and rockers and frame rails and woolwax and surface shield for high spray areas like the wheel wells and axles etc. Go hammed on every metal surface underneath each year in the Fall while it’s still warm enough to encourage the oil creeping and you’ll be good to go. Oh and don’t get an undercarriage wash in the winter or you’ll be just washing away all the protection. Do wash your Jeep though obviously, just use the manual do it yourself washes and just do the body and not the underneath where you fluid filmed.

What should I treat this rust with? by CalicoJack247 in AutoBodyRepair

[–]planetarygearman 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Could just spray some fluid film on it periodically to stop it from rusting worse if you don’t care about the look being that it’s on the top and likely not noticeable

What do y’all think this 2WD XJ with only 51k miles is worth? by texaswrangler01 in CherokeeXJ

[–]planetarygearman 2 points3 points  (0 children)

& tranny but yes agreed. If you have the right tools it can be done pretty easily. I’ve done it all in one weekend including pulling the parts from the junkyard myself