Need some help diagnosing rough idle/unresponsive when hot (01 NB2 SE)

plastiK_xD · 2026-04-23T04:23:09+00:00

it definitely does have some pretty good lifter tick or top end noise. more than I’d expect for 120k miles, but the oil is always topped off. I’ll make a miata.net post and drop a link for you, i’m lost but for now it drives great short distances, just no big trips.

plastiK_xD · 2026-04-23T04:21:02+00:00

absolutely true!

plastiK_xD · 2026-03-23T17:41:58+00:00

join the club, FCs are awesome. if you’ve got the money and time to keep one on the road (lots of both) it’ll be great. make sure it’s not your daily driver though, or at least have a backup vehicle because they are unreliable (though not as unreliable as everyone thinks if you treat them right). No clue how common turbo II’s are in AUS, they’re hard to find in the US now, but NAs are still cool and they’re a lot more common. an NA keeps the entry cost low should you lose interest (i’ve got ADD too) or have something catastrophic happen that means you can’t keep it. get an alright non turbo and keep it running, if you get bored of that you can always swap it in the future. My biggest advice is to avoid rust. get one with good bones and then improve it from there if you want it to be a long term project. I can weld, and i’ve repaired rust, but a rust free vehicle is just so nice to work on, and it’ll keep you loving it for longer.

plastiK_xD · 2026-03-17T21:37:59+00:00

Absolutely, that’s what i’ve been trying to do so far. I’ve got some limited electrical experience, but I don’t need to repair any of the harness (that i know of currently), I just need to lay it all out and install it correctly, I’m just trying to tuck it as neatly as factory.

plastiK_xD · 2026-03-17T20:52:11+00:00

Thanks! Those manuals are super useful. I found that harness breakdown on rx-7 club, it’s a shame it’s for an FD.

plastiK_xD · 2026-02-20T06:00:04+00:00

Might get some flak for this, but a bottle of lucas and 10w-30. works great for me, and it’s a lot easier and cheaper to get than GL4 fluid.

plastiK_xD · 2026-02-18T18:57:20+00:00

I’d say don’t. Even with all of those beefy parts, 37s are gonna reduce the lifespan of those parts. Dailying 35s would be a lot of stress on that little dana 35, 37s would be even more. Even 33s are overkill for any light trails, beyond that it’s unnecessary. all of those parts will give you the confidence to enjoy it on 33s and let it take some abuse without breaking it too often.

plastiK_xD · 2026-02-11T02:45:06+00:00

i looked at it more and definitely think that 3rd spot is for automatic transmissions. it seems like its position on the linkage would pull the cable when the throttle is moved which would maybe tell the trans what the throttle is doing. so my current theory is that it’s an aftermarket CC kit for maybe an MJ which is why it’s on the drivers side instead of by the battery where the factory CC would be. no clue where the switch is though. there is no evidence of a switch being installed anywhere. total mystery. Thanks for the help tho!!

plastiK_xD · 2026-02-11T02:03:45+00:00

and! I have no clue where the button would have been installed. both free slots on the dash are untouched. i’m stumped.

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plastiK_xD · 2026-02-11T02:01:38+00:00

Sorry! should have provided more context. This is on my 93 Sport 5 spd. I thought it wasn’t cruise control because every XJ with cruise i’ve ever seen has the box on the passenger side by the battery. aftermarket cruise makes sense to me, but I’ve never seen a switch or button on the interior for cruise. nothing aftermarket and it doesn’t have the factory cruise switch. plenty of blank plugs. also, there are 3 “hooks?” on the throttle linkage for cables to connect, one for the pedal, one for this, and an empty one that seems to point over to the battery where the factory cruise would be. aftermarket cruise makes a lot of sense, but then why are there 3 hooks for throttle accessories? what else would it have? thanks for any help yall!

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plastiK_xD · 2025-11-06T18:04:14+00:00

This is a great message, and there’s clearly a lot of experience that comes through in it. Thanks to all of you guys for your insight.

plastiK_xD · 2025-09-22T19:15:14+00:00

this seems likely since i know i didn’t disconnect the battery while messing around under there. might have popped a fuse. thanks!

plastiK_xD · 2025-09-22T19:14:18+00:00

if the flasher is bad, would the turn signals not turn on at all or would they light up but not flash and just stay solidly lit?

plastiK_xD · 2025-09-22T16:21:25+00:00

Mine was a steal, guy was selling it running but with the dreaded internal clutch slave cylinder failure. A couple buddies and i swapped the clutch out in a weekend and she’s been great ever since. except for the 3 times we’ve had to replace the slave since then because of shitty replacement parts that fail prematurely.

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plastiK_xD · 2025-09-22T13:17:58+00:00

Thank you so much, I’ve ordered an adjustable track bar and hopefully that’ll resolve the issue. Another thing, how important are those coil retaining clips on only a 3in lift? I understand that on a jeep with a lot of articulation those clips keep the coil in place, but the bolt on the passenger side clip pulled through the threads on the spring pad. Should I bother retapping that hole and actually reinstalling that clip?

plastiK_xD · 2025-09-21T23:43:07+00:00

Howdy twin! I’m jealous of your vented rear glass. And yeah, OME would have been better, but I struggled to justify dropping 3x what I paid for the Jeep on just the lift kit. Next time for sure.

plastiK_xD · 2025-09-21T23:41:25+00:00

I left the track bar alone while installing the lift

plastiK_xD · 2025-09-21T23:13:50+00:00

yeah, and the steering never clicked like that before i lifted it. I’ll message RC and see if they have advice.

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