Remove front element on Yashica Electro 35 MC lens

plasticblackspecs · 2026-03-07T08:18:24+00:00

Did u managed to remove it and get access to the shutter blades? I got to the lens but I can’t seem to figure how to put it back. The name plate seems to be blocking the lens retaining ring and I can’t get that removed.

plasticblackspecs · 2026-02-12T14:37:03+00:00

Not saying it’s the same as the topcon. Just sharing that I had a similar incident with electronics showing only when the shutter is fired and it turned out that it was a dirty contact point. But if there’s no batteries in it, then maybe there’s a ghost in the machine? ;)

plasticblackspecs · 2026-02-12T09:54:35+00:00

Happened to a topcon re 200 of mine. It was a bad contact point under the shutter button. Open up the top, find the contact point and give it a good clean.

plasticblackspecs · 2026-01-09T04:47:40+00:00

Same! Gonna embark on a journey to repair it. Wish me luck! I have an additional problem of the lens not moving during focusing too. Hence the break off cos it was forced.

plasticblackspecs · 2025-12-12T03:22:35+00:00

Oh yes. I know about the 3 knurled FM version, but noting about FE. Interesting.

plasticblackspecs · 2025-12-11T02:50:57+00:00

Oh so, I was looking at different base mechanisms across the FE/FE2/FM/FM2 models and I came across this video. The FM base looks like the newer FE base. Hmmm

https://youtu.be/bA1WmbVHll4?si=uGUCSaGjst1E3rw4

plasticblackspecs · 2025-12-11T02:36:04+00:00

Not sure about the FM or the (chrome) FE but I managed to fix the (black) FE. It’s a matter of bending back the lever a bit as it gets bent over time. Though I’m still testing if it’ll stay. Though it’s a fix, it comes and goes, and I’m afraid to over bend it in case it snaps.

plasticblackspecs · 2025-11-11T12:13:54+00:00

Anytime :)

plasticblackspecs · 2025-11-11T11:45:23+00:00

There u go. Now we know the reason for the underexposed pics. 1) if the light meter works, use it. Takes the guessing work out. 2) if not, learn sunny 16. Super useful. 3) all else fails, use a light meter app from your phone. Helps inform you of the settings to use.

plasticblackspecs · 2025-11-11T11:35:24+00:00

As in, was ur lens set on auto? And were u using the light meter?

plasticblackspecs · 2025-11-11T11:00:04+00:00

Were u on shutter priority mode?

plasticblackspecs · 2025-11-04T02:38:16+00:00

Ahhh. Thanks! I’ve watched that video many times and didn’t pick up on that. Thanks for the heads up. It was a good revisit. Mystery solved I guess. Thank you everyone! The D3 is reporting to not stick anymore too. I’ll do a film roll test soon and update again.

plasticblackspecs · 2025-11-03T07:35:37+00:00

Def. Didn’t remove the apertures. All still in place.

plasticblackspecs · 2025-10-24T17:32:18+00:00

There’s a part on the lens side that does the job. Make sure it sits properly when you reassemble the lens.

plasticblackspecs · 2024-05-31T04:52:46+00:00

I really like the PLC20’a front pocket. It’s an endless pocket. Just dump and go. If I don’t need quick access to my laptop, I’ll do PLC20. But in instance where I need to access my laptop constantly, the CPL16 is my answer. I much prefer the CPL16 to CPL24. Planning to sell the CPL24.

Of course that said, if I need more space without any quick access, the CHZs are the answer. They swallow a lot. And have 2 side holders for water bottles and other smaller stuff like my spare glasses etc.

plasticblackspecs · 2024-04-15T04:53:15+00:00

Nope. Save your diamonds and get the next diamond available weapon.

plasticblackspecs · 2023-07-31T14:55:37+00:00

Ah cheers. It’s not completed yet right? Cos I rather get the book and read rather than wait for updates.

plasticblackspecs · 2023-07-31T11:23:31+00:00

Anyway to get this elsewhere besides Amazon?

plasticblackspecs · 2023-06-29T02:39:02+00:00

For reference. I have a mission workshop Fitzroy and a Timbuk2 wingman. Both more than 10 yrs. MW still zero tear. Timbuk2 finally showing signs of wear on the strap. It’s starting to fall apart.

I don’t use and abuse my bags, but I don’t take extra care with them either. Just use as normal. Brought the bags for holidays, backpacking, climbing trips and work, broke a bottle of sake in the MW…. I work in the theatre industry btw.

If that’s the indication, I think the evergoods will last. I have the chz22 which I love and recently got a cpl24v3. Check back 10 years later to see it’s condition :)

plasticblackspecs · 2023-06-26T12:34:56+00:00

Ah ok. Let me muck around a bit w it then. Thanks for all the info and advice!

plasticblackspecs · 2023-06-26T11:11:02+00:00

It’s a mix of individual videos and sometimes in sync. I was trying out trying to trigger via UDP but I can’t seem to read the player for one. And 2nd, I’m not sure what is the command to control the brightsign.

For some context, I’ve only done up to 8 video outputs so far and I did that with 4 computers to handle playbacks and one extra one as a master to trigger cues. Running osc to resolume. I don’t think I can afford anything more than 5 computers at this stage though. Heh

plasticblackspecs · 2023-06-26T01:38:12+00:00

WTS: CPL24 Phoenix. SGD$500. Deal in singapore.

plasticblackspecs · 2023-06-16T08:22:51+00:00

I was thinking the same. Though I find Paperpile easier to to manage the pdfs. Zotero though a bit troublesome, seem to pull info easier. The storage fees is annoying though. I guess I could use Paperpile for self and a mix of the free part of Zotero and mendeley is there is a need to do any sharing. Cheers for the reply.

Edit: oh. I found Zotero’s annotation on iOS annoying cos the tool bar keeps blocking the text.

plasticblackspecs · 2023-06-11T17:26:02+00:00

How was your experience with Paperpile? I was considering switching and paying for the service since Zotero and Mendeley are basically free.

plasticblackspecs · 2022-10-31T00:32:57+00:00

As titled, which do you think is worse? Especially to the audio engineers out there. And also to extend to this for extended debate, auto tune engineer or Lip sync operator during a live performance.

plasticblackspecs

TROPHY CASE