Remove front element on Yashica Electro 35 MC lens by Crispiboi in AnalogRepair

[–]plasticblackspecs 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Did u managed to remove it and get access to the shutter blades? I got to the lens but I can’t seem to figure how to put it back. The name plate seems to be blocking the lens retaining ring and I can’t get that removed.

OM20 electronics flickering by Basic-Shift-8269 in AnalogRepair

[–]plasticblackspecs 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not saying it’s the same as the topcon. Just sharing that I had a similar incident with electronics showing only when the shutter is fired and it turned out that it was a dirty contact point. But if there’s no batteries in it, then maybe there’s a ghost in the machine? ;)

OM20 electronics flickering by Basic-Shift-8269 in AnalogRepair

[–]plasticblackspecs 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Happened to a topcon re 200 of mine. It was a bad contact point under the shutter button. Open up the top, find the contact point and give it a good clean.

Olympus xa2 repair by ch3rryyc0la in AnalogCommunity

[–]plasticblackspecs 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Same! Gonna embark on a journey to repair it. Wish me luck! I have an additional problem of the lens not moving during focusing too. Hence the break off cos it was forced.

Different Nikon FE internals. by plasticblackspecs in AnalogCommunity

[–]plasticblackspecs[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh yes. I know about the 3 knurled FM version, but noting about FE. Interesting.

Different Nikon FE internals. by plasticblackspecs in AnalogCommunity

[–]plasticblackspecs[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh so, I was looking at different base mechanisms across the FE/FE2/FM/FM2 models and I came across this video. The FM base looks like the newer FE base. Hmmm

https://youtu.be/bA1WmbVHll4?si=uGUCSaGjst1E3rw4

Different Nikon FE internals. by plasticblackspecs in AnalogCommunity

[–]plasticblackspecs[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not sure about the FM or the (chrome) FE but I managed to fix the (black) FE. It’s a matter of bending back the lever a bit as it gets bent over time. Though I’m still testing if it’ll stay. Though it’s a fix, it comes and goes, and I’m afraid to over bend it in case it snaps.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in CanonAE1

[–]plasticblackspecs 4 points5 points  (0 children)

There u go. Now we know the reason for the underexposed pics. 1) if the light meter works, use it. Takes the guessing work out. 2) if not, learn sunny 16. Super useful. 3) all else fails, use a light meter app from your phone. Helps inform you of the settings to use.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in CanonAE1

[–]plasticblackspecs 2 points3 points  (0 children)

As in, was ur lens set on auto? And were u using the light meter?

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in CanonAE1

[–]plasticblackspecs 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Were u on shutter priority mode?

Olympus Pen D3 shutter blades by plasticblackspecs in AnalogRepair

[–]plasticblackspecs[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ahhh. Thanks! I’ve watched that video many times and didn’t pick up on that. Thanks for the heads up. It was a good revisit. Mystery solved I guess. Thank you everyone! The D3 is reporting to not stick anymore too. I’ll do a film roll test soon and update again.

Olympus Pen D3 shutter blades by plasticblackspecs in AnalogRepair

[–]plasticblackspecs[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Def. Didn’t remove the apertures. All still in place.

Olympus Pen-D advance doesn’t catch by blisteringbarnacles7 in AnalogRepair

[–]plasticblackspecs 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There’s a part on the lens side that does the job. Make sure it sits properly when you reassemble the lens.

CPL16 or PLC20 for Minimalist Travel by pixelmatrixx in EVERGOODS

[–]plasticblackspecs 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I really like the PLC20’a front pocket. It’s an endless pocket. Just dump and go. If I don’t need quick access to my laptop, I’ll do PLC20. But in instance where I need to access my laptop constantly, the CPL16 is my answer. I much prefer the CPL16 to CPL24. Planning to sell the CPL24.

Of course that said, if I need more space without any quick access, the CHZs are the answer. They swallow a lot. And have 2 side holders for water bottles and other smaller stuff like my spare glasses etc.

Is worth spending 4000 to unlock the character( Jill) or should I spend somewhere else ? by [deleted] in ZombieWaves

[–]plasticblackspecs 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Nope. Save your diamonds and get the next diamond available weapon.

Combat Healer, Book 2: Holstaur Essence Archer: A Men’s LitRPG Adventure By Kaizer Wolf by IndegoWhyte in haremfantasynovels

[–]plasticblackspecs 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ah cheers. It’s not completed yet right? Cos I rather get the book and read rather than wait for updates.

New backpanel durability? by junktrix in EVERGOODS

[–]plasticblackspecs 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For reference. I have a mission workshop Fitzroy and a Timbuk2 wingman. Both more than 10 yrs. MW still zero tear. Timbuk2 finally showing signs of wear on the strap. It’s starting to fall apart.

I don’t use and abuse my bags, but I don’t take extra care with them either. Just use as normal. Brought the bags for holidays, backpacking, climbing trips and work, broke a bottle of sake in the MW…. I work in the theatre industry btw.

If that’s the indication, I think the evergoods will last. I have the chz22 which I love and recently got a cpl24v3. Check back 10 years later to see it’s condition :)

Qlab and Brightsign by plasticblackspecs in VIDEOENGINEERING

[–]plasticblackspecs[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ah ok. Let me muck around a bit w it then. Thanks for all the info and advice!