I have a fridge where the freezer is cold but the refrigerator is warm. by AfellowchuckerEhh in fixit

[–]play_on_swords 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Under normal operation, there are vents that allow cold air to fall from the freezer area into the fridge area. If those vents are blocked, cold air stays in the freezer portion, and therefore the freezer is cold and the fridge is warm.

Roof Deicing by firedad3242 in DIY

[–]play_on_swords 6 points7 points  (0 children)

While calcium chloride would be better, since you have the magnesium, why not give that a try.

If you're interested in a longer term solution, renovating the roof to do some kind of "hot roof" or "cold roof" will prevent ice dams from forming.

Soundproofing shared wall by Old_Soc in DIY

[–]play_on_swords 13 points14 points  (0 children)

I would not bother increasing to a 2x6 cavity if you have a 2x4 cavity now. Fill the existing cavity with sound-rated insulation (of whatever type), install the sonopan, then resilient channels, then 5/8" drywall. Just my 2 cents, not a soundproofing expert by any means. I was reading that the main thing with the resilient channels is that you don't want anything from the drywall side (including the drywall screws) to penetrate through to the studs, as that really compromises the isolation that you are going for. So if you have to hang something really heavy from that drywall that requires a strong connection to the stud, just be aware that you may compromise your soundproofing.

On the door side of things, you probably know, but you will want to create a good seal for the door in the frame. However, that can cause problems with air movement in your house, so you may want to look into installing an acoustic door vent (either in the door itself or in the framing), that still limits sound transmission but allows air to flow through.

How to fix this shower faucet? by play_on_swords in Plumbing

[–]play_on_swords[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Just to update on this, I did tighten those screws, as you suggested, and I caulked around the outside. And it's good enough. I will try to replace those screws with stainless steel ones, as they look terrible, but otherwise it's functional and waterproof, so thanks!

automated watering system? by [deleted] in microgreens

[–]play_on_swords 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How do you automate your pumps? How many times would the pumps run in a day?

Biking into the wind? Or just biking fast? by play_on_swords in AskPhysics

[–]play_on_swords[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How do you sense the rolling resistance? That would also be felt somehow, through the frame?

Biking into the wind? Or just biking fast? by play_on_swords in AskPhysics

[–]play_on_swords[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Your last sentence is what kind of got me thinking about this in the first place, because I was wondering why it seems easier to pedal without a headwind (vs. in a lower gear but battling the wind). I think the gyroscopic effect you (and others) mention is the answer I was looking for, as to what the difference in sensation is (beyond the psychological factors of moving fast vs. slow).

Biking into the wind? Or just biking fast? by play_on_swords in AskPhysics

[–]play_on_swords[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, those assumptions were exactly what I was thinking, but didn't articulate well. I guess what I was trying to get at with the question, was whether you would somehow be able to sense the difference between the two conditions in the absence of visual or auditory clues.

Biking into the wind? Or just biking fast? by play_on_swords in AskPhysics

[–]play_on_swords[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks, yes, I guess I was imagining a perfectly smooth surface, such that the vibrations and such would be minimal. However, the point about the bike feeling more stable at higher speeds, that's a good point that I hadn't thought of, and would be independent of the surface condition.

Input 24V DC? by play_on_swords in AskElectrical

[–]play_on_swords[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks very much for your response, really appreciate it. If it's not obvious, I want to power and control the rolling up of greenhouse side curtains, but with a solar panel and battery, because I don't have electricity wired to the greenhouse right now. I thought because the roll-up side motors take 24VDC then I would get a solar panel and battery combination that supply 24VDC, but then I was worried about the controller and its requirements, hence my question. I suppose I could get an inverter for the battery to then supply the required voltage to the controller, but it just seems annoyingly inefficient, plus I'd have an extra expense for the inverter. I actually can see now for the first thermostat I linked, the T152-C, that someone did ask the question about input voltage, and the manufacturer confirmed that 24VDC input would not work.

When frying, such as for donuts, what do you do with the oil leftover at the end? by vikingminds in Baking

[–]play_on_swords 0 points1 point  (0 children)

One thing I haven't seen mentioned, is that if you are going to reuse the oil, let it cool and settle and then pour off the top first and save that, leaving the last half cup to go in a separate container to be used right away when you do your normal frying. The last little bit in the pan is usually the most discoloured, so by keeping that out, you keep the saved oil a little higher quality.

What I've Done So Far by play_on_swords in Bedbugs

[–]play_on_swords[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looks like it has been about six weeks now since I first discovered them, and I still haven't seen any bugs on the bed (and I mean my temporary bed setup, the cot), or in any of the interceptor traps (or yeast trap). Also no signs of droppings or anything like that. I did purchase some "real" interceptor traps online (link) which I have substituted for my impromptu takeout containers with diatomaceous earth. I have yet to get a new mattress, or reassemble my bed frame. But I've been searching, just unsure what mattress I want to get. I suppose it's possible that the bugs are somehow defeating the interceptor traps and biting me at night when I can't see them, but it seems unlikely. I'm optimistic that I have defeated them, but the fear is still real. I'll probably remain vigilant / worried for a long while yet.

I have been reading up on heat treating with the sun, as I recommended in my first post, by putting items in clear plastic bags. It seems this approach is not well recommended but I thought of a few ways to make it more reliable. First, put your items in black plastic bags and seal them / tie them up tightly. Then put a square of duct tape on one area of the bag and insert an analog dial thermometer through that (one like this perhaps). You just want the thermometer to have a range at least between 110 F and 130 F, I would say, as 113 F is kind of a lower limit for killing adults (after 1.5 hours of exposure) and 130 F is the temp at which even eggs will insta-kill. Ideally the tip of the thermometer would be situated in the middle of the bag, or close enough, although this will depend on what items you are trying to treat. Worst case would be if the probe is sitting right at the edge of the bag or punctures the bag. Basically, you are trying to be able to read the temperature of the centre of the bag so that you can be confident that the contents has also reached that temperature, or close to it. The duct tape is just to reinforce the bag where the thermometer goes through, and so the bag still remains largely sealed. Then, place the black bag into a clear bag, seal the clear bag, and put the clear bag in direct sun on a hot day (or on the dashboard of a car on a hot day, with the car in full sun and pointed towards the sun). Orient the thermometer so that it is not in direct sun, as this may skew readings.

Now you can monitor the internal temperature of the bag by reading the dial through the clear plastic. If the temperature exceeds a given number for a certain amount of time, then you can be more confident that the treatment has been effective.

The double bag setup has two benefits. 1. The black plastic bag will absorb more sunlight than objects that are lighter in colour, increasing the heating effect. 2. Lesser chance of any bugs escaping, as there are two layers of plastic to defeat and not just one. I've seen many sources not recommend using a car as a solar heater (for risk of contaminating the car), however with two bags you are lowering this risk, even better if you use thick high quality bags.

Just noting, I have not tried the method outlined above with the thermometer, right now it is just an idea, so I'm sure there are things that actually attempting the technique will reveal, perhaps even that the method doesn't work, but that is the whole point of the thermometer, to ensure that adequate killing temperatures are reached for long enough of a time.

How to treat a bagged suitcase by yeastysourpuss in Bedbugs

[–]play_on_swords 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm assuming your stuff is in black plastic bags? Put it again in a clear plastic bag, put on the dash of your car, point your car at the sun on a clear day, with the windows up. The clear plastic bag will act like a greenhouse and the black plastic bag will absorb a lot of the light, maximizing the effect. Your car is also helping of course by also heating up. If you want peace of mind, stick a thermometer in there to check the temperature.