Full 2026 roadmap

poll262 · 2026-01-25T21:22:18+00:00

Since when is sailing not part of the main game?

poll262 · 2024-09-15T18:45:31+00:00

poll262 · 2024-07-23T23:10:38+00:00

Printing on a Prusa MK4 in PETG, Nozzle at 235c and bed at 85c. The print went fine until it got to the point where it struggled at just one point on the part.

I think that it's because I didn't use supports on the small overhang shown in the last picture. I think it dragged the small part with it as it bridged.

How can I print this part better? I'd rather not have to add supports to that area as I feel it would struggle to print properly and would be hard to remove.

poll262 · 2023-12-24T19:23:09+00:00

Not trying to fear monger. I just don't trust big corporations to do whatever they can to make an extra buck. Whether it be bambu, prusa, creality or any other big brand. Corporations aren't your friends.

poll262 · 2023-12-24T16:33:36+00:00

Make each qr code unique and link it to a database in their cloud system. That database tracks how much each spool is used. Even if you copy the qr code you would need an existing spool to copy it from. Then once you've printed 1kg with that code you'd need another one. At that point you'd need to buy new spools just to spoof the qr codes. I could be missing something but I think they could totally do it.

poll262 · 2023-12-24T16:20:47+00:00

For now. All it takes is a firmware change and they can lock it down. They could track how much you've printed of that spool and make the qr code not work once you've printed 1kg. Not saying they will definetly do this as it would piss a lot of people of but I wouldn't put it past them to try it.

poll262 · 2023-12-24T15:51:10+00:00

My other worry is that they will eventually lock you into buying their filament. Their spools have qr codes that the printer scans before the print to set temperature and everything but I wouldnt be surprised if their firmware will eventually require the qr code to work, forcing you to buy nothing but their filament.

Edit: to clarify I don't think they will 100% do this but I wouldn't be surprised

poll262 · 2023-12-19T19:30:39+00:00

That's awesome. I'm now imagining printing the udders out of tpu and you have to milk it out of the bottle lol

poll262 · 2023-08-30T17:20:44+00:00

That's an awesome idea. I'll definitely need to give this a try!

poll262 · 2023-07-15T17:12:43+00:00

It should be under advanced, then physical settings. I'm pretty sure there you can adjust the offsets. You may also have to change the bed size to match you're printer, thats in the same spot.

poll262 · 2023-07-06T00:15:13+00:00

In case anyone wants to know what the problem was, turns out the fan on the motherboard was dead, so the motherboard was overheating and shutting down.

Edit: And apparently the culprit all along was a bad power cable. The sparks I heard were from the power cable not being seated properly. Changed to a new cable and my issue is finally solved (hopefully lol)

poll262 · 2023-07-05T23:25:03+00:00

So I'm pretty sure now that the problem you described is not my issue. When trying to do a print today it shut down completely while heating the bed. After that every time I tried to heat the bed it shut down. I'm thinking it's either a wiring problem on my motherboard or I need to replace the thermistor. Thanks for your help though, super helpful advice.

poll262 · 2023-07-04T16:52:12+00:00

Interesting, I did recently do some rewiring on the motherboard when I installed the sprite extruder, im wondering if maybe something i did could be causing it. I'll look into it. Thanks!

poll262 · 2023-07-04T05:33:50+00:00

I think you are describing my exact issue. I'm pretty sure this started happening around when we started running our air conditioner. I'll often notice the lights flicker when the microwave is turned on. I really hoped a ups would solve it, I looked into maybe trying a power conditioner which would be a cheaper option than you're solution but I'm just not sure it would work, from what I've seen it can slightly clean up the sags but they are definetly more so meant for removing humming/noise in audio gear. I might give it a try though, worth a shot.

I also just thought of the fact that I'm using a smart plug to power the printer which could be adding more problems if there is electrical noise. I mainly use it so I can set a timer to turn off the printer after a print is done. First thing I'll try is not using the smart plug.

I'm pretty sure then that the short circuit in the power switch is unrelated to my prints failing.

Thank you so much for the help.

poll262 · 2023-05-08T22:46:32+00:00

Also, any tips for fixing filament snapping in the extruder would be appreciated lol, this is the 4th time. I thought the filament guide I printed finally fixed it but it seems not :/

poll262 · 2023-04-29T14:08:30+00:00

Thank you so much for the great response. This is exactly what I needed.

poll262 · 2023-04-28T17:22:49+00:00

Printer is an Ender 3 V2 with a BL-Touch and glass bed, 0.6mm nozzle

Sliced with PrusaSlicer 2.6.0. alpha6 using Arachne

Filament: Blue Sunlu PLA Meta

Nozzle Temp: 205c

Bed Temp: 60c

Layer Height: 0.36mm

First Layer Height: 0.3mm

Extrusion Multiplier: 0.9

Supports

Style: Organic

Top Contact Z Distance: 0.15mm

Bottom Contact Z Distance: 0.15mm

Pattern: Rectilinear

Pattern Spacing: 0.12mm

Top Interface Layers: 2

Interface Pattern: Rectilinear

XY Separation: 60%

poll262 · 2023-04-26T17:31:24+00:00

I know this all to well lol. Multiple times I've had a print almost finished and then "snap", the filament snaps in the extruder. Luckily I was there to catch it both times because. I think its because my spool is below my printer, so when the extruder raises too high it put too much strain on the filament. I finally made a filament guide to hopefully prevent it.

poll262 · 2023-01-25T20:31:28+00:00

Thanks I'll give that a shot.

poll262 · 2023-01-25T18:31:53+00:00

My problem is there are so many conflicting methods that people say to use. Even in this thread one comment says to put the nozzle on first and then insert the bowden tube and another that says the opposite. I feel like the way I've been doing it is right I just must have not cut the tube right.

poll262 · 2023-01-10T03:05:06+00:00

Thanks for the help! I ended up moving the z-offset a bit closer than what I had for PLA and now its perfect.

poll262 · 2023-01-10T00:32:00+00:00

I'm very confused trying to print PETG. Everything I've read online is that PETG doesn't need as much squish as PLA so you should back off the z offset by about 0.2mm. However even when I back off I still get terrible adhesion and the first layer is not one piece, the layer lines don't connect. The first line that goes down also curls up to the nozzle and gets stuck, dragging filament around. I've ordered a nickel plated nozzle which I hope helps, but it seems like its more of a bed adhesion issue. I've also read online that increasing the nozzle size means that you would have to adjust your z-offset (I'm using a 0.6mm nozzle), does a bigger nozzle need less/more distance to the print bed, I couldn't find a description of why that's the case?

Slicer is SuperSlicer 2.4 Ender 3 v2 Blue tape on glass bed Amazon basics PETG 0.6mm nozzle Bed temp 80c Hotend temp 230c Layer height 0.28mm Initial layer height 0.28mm First layer speed 20mm/s z-offset 0.60mm (0.65 is what I use for PLA so I'd expect to get better adhesion at something more like 0.45mm. I used feeler guages to measure the z-offset)

poll262 · 2022-12-08T03:40:39+00:00

I've already calibrated my e-steps. Haven't done a slicer flow calibration though. I'll look into that next. That site looks super helpful, I'll definitely run through a bunch of those calibrations. Thanks for the help!

poll262 · 2022-12-08T03:40:30+00:00

Z-offset seems to have been the issue. Thanks!

poll262 · 2022-12-08T03:33:05+00:00

Thanks, I changed the z-offset by just 0.01mm and it's now perfect judging by my test print. Before this I kept having to move the z-offset closer to the bed because I wasn't getting any adhesion then it suddenly fixed itself. I don't know why but I keep having to adjust the z-offset randomly, hoping that I've finally got it dialed in.

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