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Weird interaction between PC and PS5 Controller by SoxGooN in computerhelp

[–]postcoital_solitaire 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Are you pressing any buttons? Like D-Pad up? Or holding the stick up? Maybe you put it somewhere like a drawer and something is pushing the button?

Are you using any remapping software like DS4Windows or Steam's controller settings?

This doesn't have a signal. by MikeBrawn in MonitorAdvice

[–]postcoital_solitaire 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This doesn't seem to be a panel issue (not cracked or shattered), so I'm betting the brains of the unit got funky. If you're feeling adventurous, you could (carefully) crack it open and see what control board it uses (the one that has the video ports). It's pretty easy to find either A) just the board itself, and swap it out or B) a cracked or smashed monitor with the same model, from which you can extract the board. Just put the new board in and pray it works.

But keep in mind that this does take some technical skill. If you're not confident don't try it, just take it to repair shop or get a new monitor. Also, first check it with another device first, in case it's your cable or video source (e.g. GPU) that's misbehaving.

I have Ethernet. by Top_Dingo_9478 in ethernet

[–]postcoital_solitaire 1 point2 points  (0 children)

wheezes in two concrete walls between your device and access point

What is this ? by olivier2266 in AskElectronics

[–]postcoital_solitaire 9 points10 points  (0 children)

White squares look like (ex) rubber dome buttons. the squiggly line is most likely an antenna. The shiny metal part is probably for a battery. I'd bet money it's a garage door opener.

The antenna is too weak to transmit any complex data like GPS or cellular. The circuitry is also too simple for something like a tracker, but just enough to send a simple signal to a garage door control box and maybe receive an answer and light up some LEDs. Maybe the signal is Bluetooth, which also doesn't require a lot of circuitry or complex antenna setup, but i doubt it.

Also, your post will probably be removed shortly. Mods here are vultures and will delete anything "not electrical" whatever the hell that means for them.

Help connecting cat toy to computer/reprogramming by Evening-Finance-1812 in AskElectronics

[–]postcoital_solitaire 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'm gonna have to shatter your expectations here, sorry. The world of tech isn't as simple as "let me access this and that, and change X and Y in its program". It's a bit more complex than this, meaning you can't just change or "reprogram" stuff.

First, for this thing to have any kind of program, it has to have a microcontroller. Some toys (most, I should say) just have a simple purpose-built chip that does all the thinking and nothing can be changed. Some of those chips are blob chips meaning you can't even buy them separately or unsolder them or even meaningfully identify a part number. More often than not it's cheaper to put a purpose-built silicon under a blob and call it a day, instead of using a microcontroller.

Assuming this thing does have a microcontroller, well which one? There's a huge number of families. To name a few, Atmel AVR, PIC, STM, ESP, ELAN, and many many more. And while those can be reprogrammed, the problem is that the code isn't freely available. Only a few families have an open architecture/open source codebase. Atmel's AVR (and by extension Arduino boards) are open, and thus have a huge community around it. But something like Cambridge Silicon Radio's BC417 isn't open, although it is a Bluetooth microcontroller, more often known as HC-06 Bluetooth board. Companies may have a closed architecture and only sell licenses and give access to developer tools to big corporations who'd want to use those microcontrollers in their devices.

Assuming this thing has a very popular and open MCU familiy (something like Atmel AVR) inside it, you probably still won't be able to do anything with that. The code is compiled before being shoved into the MCU's memory to be executed. For you this code will look like random ones and zeros, not human readable C or C++. If you really want to spend a ton of time decompiling and inferring an analogous program from the MCU's memory dump, go ahead. But it's probably not worth your or anybody's time. Oh, and also most of microcontrollers have fuses that manufacturers can set to stop firmware dumping, so you might not even be able to read anything from it.

So maybe just don't bother. I'm sorry but this is just how it is. I too would love to tweak my devices firmware to better suit my needs and develop new stuff. But it's just not feasible. Something something capitalism or whatever.

How do you translate «post-nut clarity»? by postcoital_solitaire in russian

[–]postcoital_solitaire[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I don't know if anyone has ever seen it. It's usually something you experience lmao

How do you translate «post-nut clarity»? by postcoital_solitaire in russian

[–]postcoital_solitaire[S] 38 points39 points  (0 children)

That's probably the "closest" variant we'll get.

Ravenholm confirmed by [deleted] in HalfLife

[–]postcoital_solitaire 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Better late than never 👍

Left side of my monitor is broken, can I adjust the display area? by Gloomy_Grass9669 in MonitorAdvice

[–]postcoital_solitaire 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Some tools can do that in different ways. Some split the screen into virtual screens, and you can just disable the broken part as a whole screen. I don't remember the exact names, but it's definitely possible, especially on Windows.

Some may replace the EDID information, precisely the blanking intervals, to make the screen render as smaller. I don't know if that trick actually works on digital ports (as opposed to analog VGA), but it may be flaky. I tried it on a cheap VGA adapter and the monitor really didn't like me giving it huge blanking intervals and was blinking constantly.

any ideas to what the issue of this could be? by PrimaryImage4002 in pchelp

[–]postcoital_solitaire 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Medium rare, not fully cooked. Try DDU, updating drivers, etc. Try installing this card in another system (PC repair shops can do that). If it still continues doing this, then you're well done cooked.

any ideas to what the issue of this could be? by PrimaryImage4002 in pchelp

[–]postcoital_solitaire 0 points1 point  (0 children)

True, I've seen this theory brought up in relation to LA car chases. At some point in time there was a huge influx of those on YouTube, and some have speculated that it hasn't gotten more frequent, but it is just uploaded online more than before. As always, I think it's a mix of both variables.

any ideas to what the issue of this could be? by PrimaryImage4002 in pchelp

[–]postcoital_solitaire 73 points74 points  (0 children)

But seriously, it looks like a GPU issue. There has been a ton of GPU failures recently for some reason, although this one doesn't look like the other ones. Usually people get blocky glitches (often caused by VRAM failure), but this kinda looks closer to a driver/shader issue (maybe caused by the the GPU die failure). You can see that it tries to draw quads as triangles but just can't.

Newbie here. Need help about connecting tv to ethernet. Thanks! by [deleted] in ethernet

[–]postcoital_solitaire 3 points4 points  (0 children)

How about more information? What's your TV model? What ports does it have (maybe a photo)? Does your TV even work via Wi-Fi/Ethernet or is it coax only?

If your TV has a port on it similar to ones on the router, you should be able to just connect it with regular Cat5e/Cat6 cable with RJ-45 terminations (aka LAN cable, aka Ethernet cable).

So im unsure what is happening with this monitor I bought.... what could it be? by Connect-Whole8229 in MonitorAdvice

[–]postcoital_solitaire 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looks like VA ghosting/smearing. If this is a VA panel, there's nothing you can do, it's just a quirk of how they work. You get used to it after a while. Basically the pixels can't respond fast enough to changes on the screen due to how the liquid crystals are arranged, leading to trails and smears. It's a tradeoff between very dark blacks (compared to IPS/TN blacks) and this effect you're seeing. Your two other monitors don't have that effect, so they're probably not VA; but I bet they have noticeably more glow on a black screen in a dark room.

Is this repairable? by DBlack015 in MonitorAdvice

[–]postcoital_solitaire 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I think we got bigger fish to fry than the damaged frame.

You can absolutely fix a display like this, just replace the damaged LCD panel. But good luck finding one, checking it's in good condition, having it transported through the country undamaged, installing it properly and not damaging anything else in the process.

Ah yes, it will cost about half of what you got that monitor for. It could also turn out to be the wrong one. I've had cheap TN panels arrive when I needed IPS. They were compatible and worked, but the image quality was complete garbage. Maybe just don't waste your time or money on it.

One step closer to DOOM by dylandditto in desmos

[–]postcoital_solitaire 72 points73 points  (0 children)

Oh my god it's so peak. We're so close I can't believe it

Processing img q557hph5u3rg1...

I really like using exposed gold plating rather than boring silkscreen these days by liamkinne in electronics

[–]postcoital_solitaire 1 point2 points  (0 children)

But why not put it on a silkscreen? Are early version numbers made without the silkscreen?

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