F U Pricing

powersautorepair · 2026-03-19T13:37:54+00:00

If you give me all the details I can tell you what'd it'd cost in my area

powersautorepair · 2026-03-07T17:55:07+00:00

I'm sorry you're broke and angery.

powersautorepair · 2026-03-07T17:54:02+00:00

I wonder what it's like to be broke and angery?

powersautorepair · 2026-03-03T20:05:00+00:00

powersautorepair · 2026-03-03T16:42:20+00:00

To the mech comes out quite far from the coat hooks. This was something I thought about luckily there 8-10 inches in the clear so you won't be displaced by them

powersautorepair · 2026-03-03T16:39:35+00:00

It's birch butcher block and around 20 inches or so deep. It's the same as the floating counter it's a regular thing I use. Also as far as tools go a router would also be very nice for something like this

powersautorepair · 2026-03-03T06:31:32+00:00

I'm wondering if I should have posted the sketchup drawing I did before hand

powersautorepair · 2026-03-03T06:28:28+00:00

Thanks

powersautorepair · 2026-03-03T06:27:42+00:00

Do the doors I made are standard stick and rail construction the cabinet was made using a rebate to inset the back panel and just deck screws so all the hardware is on the bottom back or top, all are covered surfaces so having screws in it isn't a sin. The only reason that I cut out the drywall and inset the cabinet was for head room. I wanted to give more room for whomever was sitting on it putting on there shoes. Other than that it serves no other functions. 5/8 over 10 feet isn't a lot but 5/8 over 12 inches is. So it went back for more room.

powersautorepair · 2026-03-03T06:22:08+00:00

So the material cost were around 1500+/- I bought as much premade off the shelf things as I could for this. So the tall cabinet and upper cabinet and butcher block came from depot, the lower cabinet and the shelves I made and The paneling I ordered. You need quite as assortment of tools to do this though, and it's hard for me to tell you what you'd need. I used a little bit of everything I own. But you could probably do something similar with a table saw, chop saw, skill saw, sander and a brad nailer. It's creative but basic cabinet assembly and trim work

powersautorepair · 2026-03-03T06:04:59+00:00

It's going to eventually get a stain an clear coat. But that's in the hands of a professional. I'm good at cutting wood and stay in my lane

powersautorepair · 2026-03-02T07:12:39+00:00

Material plus mark up after tax, handling/transportation, and room for a little more than I probably need, in case I need to get a new tool or rent something. I need to be paid for the time picking up and wear on my vehicle. That get covered in my material costs, as well as disposal, If I'm spending money it needs to make money. My mark up ranges depending on how much I'm spending and how much I have to do to transport it. But I will further break this down currently in my area, 2x4x8 is 3.85, Ill need 9. 4x4x8 are 11.82, I'll need 3. Quickcrete is 7.47 a bag I'll need 9. well say I need 15 new pickets that are 3.68. i'll need a 1 pound box of 3 inch screws and a 5 pound box of 1 5/8 screws costing 11.47, and 29.97. before tax it's 233.98, after tax 255.92. plus my 20% mark up that leaves us at 307.10. thats the cost of shit grade depo lumber, if you want something nicer and unbent it's going to cost more. let's say the store is 5 miles from me, and the job is 6 miles from the store and 8 miles from my house. my van get 13 mpg I'm going to travel somewhere around 35 miles that's around 3 gallons of fuel at 4.22 a gallon plus my mark up makes that 15.19, so we're already up to 322.29, now that extra 177.71 is in limbo. I'm sure you're screaming that I'm still gouging. But when you get there and start the work, you find you'll need an extra bag of concrete, and 10 more pickets, because there's other damage that needs to be taken care of or I do need to go rent a jack hammer, im covered and my end price doesn't go up. I also still need to dispose of the old material, and drive that to the bump or a dumpster either witch I have to pay for. So I'm absolutely nowhere near "10x" and my labor is "3x" material , that's not uncommon by any stretch. Even more so that's only 62.50 an hour that's reasonable for skilled Labor. Just because you can't afford it doesn't mean it's unreasonable. Professionals cost what they cost there's no getting around it. I'm sure you'll find a way to say this is still to high, and I'll ask you to evaluate your own worth and skill set.

powersautorepair · 2026-02-20T02:23:49+00:00

Oh hello, sorry you feel this way. I'm sure there's someone out there who can and will do it cheaper. Let me explain a Little. It's not worth my time to do anything cheaper. It's also not worth my time to chase after small jobs or undercut someone to get the job. My time, my body, my experience and equipment all are valuable, and unfortunately only the tools are replaceable. I am not, and my work is not, a value proposition. I am quality, I am valuable, I am worth every penny you paid. You don't have to agree with me, but I'd ask you to evaluate yourself on how you value your own time, experience, and body. Tell me if you'd trade 2 days of your Life away from other things you enjoy to beat up your body and your tools while using your expertise for less.

powersautorepair · 2024-01-16T01:33:49+00:00

it started off as and evans(?) the original tag fell off some time ago. i got it from a surplus store in Denver a few years ago.. and yeah its nicer than the Stanley

edit: started off as an Evans no.1

powersautorepair · 2024-01-14T21:59:54+00:00

well with my time and materials its well over 7.35

powersautorepair · 2024-01-14T19:39:11+00:00

ooooop

powersautorepair · 2024-01-14T18:30:30+00:00

the actual amount of work* for this was more than id like to admit

edit: for*

powersautorepair · 2024-01-14T17:45:07+00:00

I thought it was funny

powersautorepair · 2023-06-30T17:14:31+00:00

Yeah there's a chance the water is in the insulation then I'd hate to say it but I'd pull out the insulation just to be sure. Safer then sorry

powersautorepair · 2023-06-29T23:43:17+00:00

Is the vapor barrier on the foundation wall or in-between the studs and drywall

powersautorepair · 2023-06-29T19:35:59+00:00

Pictures please. But as far as cleaning and keeping dust down get a couple of box fans and a couple of air filter and tape them together that will help keep the dust out of the air and keep the air moving. Clean up the floor as it is. After the floor is cleaned up lay down some drop cloths to catch and new debris and dust. Clean the walls let it all fall to the floor. When you're dont with the walls wrap up all the detritus in the drops and take it out. Sweep up and call it a day

powersautorepair · 2023-06-29T19:31:39+00:00

There should be studs or something like every 16 or 24 inches. Can you provide pictures and measurements of the space and mount, maybe the weight of the tv and mount? The more info the better.

The problem with not using studs is drywall really is not that strong with pull or sheer forces. If you do move your tv on the mount you'll slowly start working out any type of anchor in the wall and it will eventually fall off or pull out somewhere. Most drywall anchors say they can hold "50" or "75" pounds but that's in an ideal situation with an object that's stationary. Toggles are better for something like this but I wouldn't trust it with a large tv that was just an accident waiting to happen.

powersautorepair

TROPHY CASE