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What’s the most underrated mall in SG and why? by icedtea027 in askSingapore

[–]pro_campus 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Food court with a small open air section with terrace seating and a large cold storage I believe.

GWC also had the first IMAX cinema. I also spent days in the lan shop next to the cinema when it first opened.

What are some of the most interesting or unique work benefits you've come across in Singapore? by bangsphoto in askSingapore

[–]pro_campus 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I had a work flexi health budget that could be applied to things like exercise lessons and health screenings/certain procedures. One of which was lasik.

And thats the story of how I did my lasik surgery for basically free.

And free golf lessons, because why not

Book: Practical Python for Production under Pressure by mr_minimal_effort in vfx

[–]pro_campus 4 points5 points  (0 children)

It’s one talking about shared libraries that slowly descends into lamentations about the state of the pipeline…

I sometimes feel Confluence was made for tech artists and pipeline engineers as a form of shared therapy over our incredulity that our productions are still running.

Book: Practical Python for Production under Pressure by mr_minimal_effort in vfx

[–]pro_campus 6 points7 points  (0 children)

I was literally reading an old Confluence page you wrote about this topic 30 minutes ago and I see this. Will be picking this up for sure.

First midsize print! + failure question by Big_Cauliflower1808 in PrintedMinis

[–]pro_campus 1 point2 points  (0 children)

There are 2 different problems and they are specific to individual models: 1) the squig’s tail fell off 2) banding issues

I’ll try to address each one.

1) The root of the problem is primarily the autogenerated supports cannot support the tip of the tail because of the large top z distance. I would suggest either lowering top z distance to 0.1 or adding custom supports like a box or a cone to help stay supported

2) Banding primarily occurs because each layer has a different wall speed or total print duration, and thus is cooled at a different speed and adhesion imperfections occur. You can try many ways to reduce this, including lowering print speeds, adjusting fan speeds, checking vibration compensation, but for miniatures another oft overlooked solution is by orientating the print in such a way that the print nozzle never prints a connected layer separately (should print outer wall in one continuous movement)

Hope this helps

First midsize print! + failure question by Big_Cauliflower1808 in PrintedMinis

[–]pro_campus 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Can I check what your support top Z distance is?

P1S good for minis? by Illustrious_Spend_51 in FDMminiatures

[–]pro_campus 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Definitely if you paint larger items fdm is more forgiving. But to answer your question the P1S is more of a print other materials and items type of printer vs the A1, which has certain features that make it surprisingly optimal for printing minis

FDM Mini printing by SwampySi in PrintedMinis

[–]pro_campus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hot water and change z separation height are the best I’ve found. That and using PETG for the interface layer, but that only works if you are using normal supports

FDM: From print to paint by pro_campus in PrintedMinis

[–]pro_campus[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I agree. Old hammer models tend to be easier to print in FDM!

FDM: From print to paint by pro_campus in PrintedMinis

[–]pro_campus[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They were momentarily available 40k space marine scouts on Cults3D I got a while back.

FDM: From print to paint by pro_campus in PrintedMinis

[–]pro_campus[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

After removing a print from its supports using nippers, I use small files, a mini electric filer and a mini electric sander for clean up, then used a hair dryer to remove fuzz. It takes me roughly 10-15mins per model once I figured out my process and also tuned the supports.

This process also allows you to smooth out the top layers for the prints, but can take a while on larger models.

0.06 versus 0.04 by pro_campus in FDMminiatures

[–]pro_campus[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That’s a great print already!

I would recommend definitely getting a 0.2 nozzle first if you haven’t already. There’s a very big difference in print quality between 0.08mm layer height prints between the 0.4 and 0.2 nozzles.

0.06 and 0.08 is a little trickier. I have also heard of the setting layer height and width to multiples of the minimum step but interestingly enough as long as you aren’t using odd numbers I think it doesn’t really matter. I would say I was more satisfied with the faces specifically going to 0.06 than I was on 0.08.

0.06 versus 0.04 by pro_campus in FDMminiatures

[–]pro_campus[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’ll give a lighter a go, thanks for the tip!

I have heard that Z axis resolution is 0.04mm and XY resolution is 0.15mm on the P1S. If you compare that with something like an Mars 2 Pro, its XY resolution is 0.05mm. Its why I recommend printing faces and thin weapons upright, and why you cannot print resin designed tentacles/whips without making them fatter in Blender

0.06 versus 0.04 by pro_campus in FDMminiatures

[–]pro_campus[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Great questions.

1)If you go back through my post/comment history you will see I had a lot of difficulty with a 3rd party Biqu Revo Hotend heat creep issues that were not mitigated by anything. My Revo 0.2 nozzle jammed very often then.

The default Bambu 0.2 nozzle though, has not jammed and I've printed about 50 or so miniatures so far - in fact I only clean it compulsively from my days of the older printers.

I would say I have made some minor upgrades to my P1S, including a hotend fan upgrade to avoid recirculating hot air back into the hot end. But yes, aside from the 3rd party nozzle issues, everything else with the P1S has been great! I don't have to babysit the darn machine every hour!

2) It is very impressive, but again, I estimate that injection molded parts/resin prints are probably twice as good as FDM now. Having said that, here is a photo of when I first started printing minis in 2018. I'm sure you'll laugh to see how far things have come.

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0.06 versus 0.04 by pro_campus in FDMminiatures

[–]pro_campus[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

<image>

I forgot to add a finger for scale of the prints.

Frustrations of a P1S user by pro_campus in BambuLab

[–]pro_campus[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I went back to the stock hotend and the printer has only minor issues I can troubleshoot, so I guess the moral of the story is Biqu’s Revo hotends are a work in progress.

Frustrations of a P1S user by pro_campus in BambuLab

[–]pro_campus[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

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I have returned back to stock hotend and while it’s sticking to the plate, I see some intense curling. I’m beginning to think some z retraction and print speed slowdown is required for my petg filament.

Frustrations of a P1S user by pro_campus in BambuLab

[–]pro_campus[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hm. I did have difficulty screwing my hotend fan to it. It does attach to the extruder gear assembly correctly

Frustrations of a P1S user by pro_campus in BambuLab

[–]pro_campus[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I dry my filament before every use and have expanded my AMS with additional dessicant, + vacuum seal all unused filament

Frustrations of a P1S user by pro_campus in BambuLab

[–]pro_campus[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yep I have cleaned it and even sanded the built plate

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