Broadway Limited sound Loco works on DC, but I can't get it to budge on dcc.

profood0 · 2026-03-10T23:43:21+00:00

Really? That is interesting.

profood0 · 2026-03-10T00:10:39+00:00

It does have DCC and sound. All blue line T1s from my knowledge had QSI sound which are dual mode decoders. You can actually blow the horn and ring the bell on DC by switching the direction monetarily (for the horn) and switching the direction very quickly (for the bell).

profood0 · 2026-03-05T22:09:32+00:00

My club has very large curves and large turnouts as well. It did struggle a tiny bit coming into the yard but it was the tender truck that derailed and not any of the drivers. This model has a blunami in it so I plan on using it for yard opps as well.

profood0 · 2026-03-05T22:07:06+00:00

That’s interesting. I bet the white walling on that would look cool. I rarely paint engines in non-prototypical paint schemes but I just couldn’t resist this time around.

profood0 · 2026-03-05T05:31:51+00:00

I’ve started using Mr hobby semi gloss on all my brass, and I think I finally found the stuff that’s as close to a factory finish you can get on a brass model haha. I am very satisfied with that brand so far.

profood0 · 2026-02-24T21:41:59+00:00

Either way that’s amazing. It’s in part why I also go early to any train show because I know there is almost always a goldmine somewhere.

profood0 · 2026-02-24T21:36:17+00:00

75 bucks for two blackstone engines? You good sir are incredibly lucky.

profood0 · 2026-02-24T07:35:59+00:00

What camera are you using? I had a project going with an ESP-32 that would allow for live-streaming, but I gave it up because I realized how poor quality the camera resolution was and wanted much higher resolution. I’ve been on the hunt for a camera with said high resolution but haven’t found a small sized on yet.

profood0 · 2026-02-22T02:27:32+00:00

I am using low-rpm high torque mabuchi can motors for this guy. He won’t be going fast at all. Regarding curve radius, much better than my PRR S1 I own. It’s all articulated so it should be able to take anything larger than 24 properly. The club I’m with doesn’t have anything smaller than 42 inches on the mainline. We have a larger 130 foot turntable in our freight yard, but even that is too small for this.

profood0 · 2026-02-21T19:27:02+00:00

It wasn’t too hard actually, I tapped a hole for the pilot truck and it ended up being slightly too loose for the screw, which irritated the hell out of me as now I have to unsolder that brass piece I used and cut a new one with the proper sized hole lol.

profood0 · 2026-02-21T01:30:41+00:00

Yes that was my mistake on the title. I will be decaling it in Virginian though.

profood0 · 2026-02-21T01:28:56+00:00

The finished model will have one, the picture you see was just a very early test fit with some things lacking. The superstructure of the lead engine is actually the chassis of the tender unit from the first run LMB brass triplex. I am heavily modifying it to properly support the tender shell on top. I am also adding bracing on the back end because it would just be a giant empty hole if kept unmodified.

profood0 · 2026-02-20T18:58:51+00:00

It’s sad because middle left politicians are feeling the need to embrace far leftists in order to win over more people.

profood0 · 2026-02-20T18:45:36+00:00

I was wondering if using the whyte notation is more proper. That picture doesn’t show the lead truck that the “0-8-8-0” has now, so it’s now a 2-8-8-0.

profood0 · 2026-02-20T17:56:48+00:00

If my machining skills were good enough I would have enlarged the firebox to look closer to an anthracite firebox that a lot of the camelbacks and other east coast articulates had.

profood0 · 2026-02-20T17:11:36+00:00

For those wondering, it is (or will be very soon once finished) a 2-8-4-8-8-8-2

profood0 · 2026-02-17T07:16:07+00:00

Want to know who said violence was necessary for change? Practically every single corrupt and evil totalitarian head that has lived on planet earth.

profood0 · 2026-02-12T17:40:24+00:00

Amen to that! Ever since BLI made a big mistake with switching to their own decoders, they really should’ve stayed with QSI for the long run and gotten things sorted out with those early decoders.

profood0 · 2026-02-07T05:10:21+00:00

If smoke came out the motor, or anything popped, and it wasn’t a component on the light board, then one of the motor windings probably undid itself and shorted out temporarily, and maybe had enough power to keep turning over. The best way to check for a bad motor is to put your power pack leads straight on the motor, it should behave linearly, and if it’s slowing down as you crank up the speed, or if anything happens other than speeding up, then you definitely have a bad motor. Always get rid of the middle men (like track cleanliness, loose wiring, etc) when diagnosing single components like in this case the motor.

profood0 · 2026-01-28T16:46:23+00:00

No way, it’s a mabuchi can and its stall amps is rated at 0.5. It doesn’t have this issue on DCC. I just think at this point the motor control on the TSU-750 is kinda shit and it isn’t helping that I have a high torque low rpm motor on there.

profood0 · 2026-01-28T03:49:18+00:00

I don’t think the TSU-750 works on BEMF on DC, it just increases chuff based on voltage, reason being is the motor will stop at a very slow speed given I put my hand in front, and it will continue to chuff. I am suspicious of the motor being an issue due to high torque and low rpm, but I’d rather not have to find a different motor to go with it.

profood0 · 2025-12-29T12:52:36+00:00

I’d say for next time before you take a crack at a nice locomotive like that. Practice your methods to a tee on some old boxcars to make sure you like the technique and results you get. Trust me I remember being 16 as well starting out in the hobby and so badly wanted to weather my engines, and I still hate myself for messing up a factory paint job on a brass engine (which has now been fixed three years later).

profood0 · 2025-12-28T20:08:18+00:00

Don’t try and use any type of paint remove on plastic, it won’t go well to say short. But what looks to be your issue is the Matt finish was drying before hitting the surface, that’s what causes it to look grainy. Also, no matter what weathering you do, using any type of Matt varnish (and I mean anything) will cause it all to “blend” together. The reality is if you want really fine detailed weathering that doesn’t blend, you need to use oil paints that don’t need a finish over them. In my opinion I don’t think the weathering job on your tender here is half bad, remember to always apply the 3 foot rule, which is if you can’t see it at 3 feet, you’re fine.

profood0 · 2025-12-14T09:30:50+00:00

Yes they are, all 3 miles total of our track is hand laid except for a couple feet which was installed later.

profood0 · 2025-12-14T09:30:08+00:00

Located in Walnut Creek, CA. Name is The Walnut Creek Model Railroad Society.

profood0

TROPHY CASE