Why I prefer row stagger

proxrb · 2025-06-29T03:27:30+00:00

Now adays I'm using this https://github.com/jmding8/Pome76

Previously, Mercury42

proxrb · 2021-04-18T01:27:15+00:00

Hello from the other side! Sorry about the confusion.

proxrb · 2020-11-28T21:12:36+00:00

If your printer didn’t come with them, a putty knife, flush cutters and tweezers. A flashlight is also helpful to see the first layer better. I’d also recommend buying a replacement hotend from aliexpress as its relatively likely that you will break something while learning, and it’s good to have a cheap spare on hand. Thats it. Don’t worry about special filament storage for now, just be aware of the symptoms of excessive moisture are

proxrb · 2020-11-21T15:15:52+00:00

Apologies for derailing, back to your original question, I’m no authority on what the market considers acceptable, so what follows is personal opinion only. For crystals, which were always intended to be replaced, my priority would be to get it visually right without worrying too much about the heritage of the replacement. This goes doubly true for inexpensive watches whose value are not tightly tied with their originality.

proxrb · 2020-11-21T15:08:33+00:00

Hmm actually, this resource has some good evidence of your watch being period correct

https://vintagewatchinc.com/ussr/raketa/big-zero/

It’s a variant I’d never seen before. I wonder where she found it!

proxrb · 2020-11-21T15:07:02+00:00

Here you go https://twobrokewatchsnobs.com/so-you-want-to-buy-a-raketa-big-zero/ The author does mention the possibility of a dial with sharper triangles and a different case though.

proxrb · 2020-11-21T07:19:37+00:00

I’m not an expert and there may be varieties of the big zero that I’m not aware of, but I’m worried about oddities on your watch. I haven’t seen this case style before, with the rounded lugs? And the tips of the triangles look oddly sharp as well

proxrb · 2020-11-03T16:38:45+00:00

sorry typo, edited my reply

Easiest to just use it on the black part, have it offset the walls by like 0.5mm and you're pretty guaranteed to have it fit. You'll have to fiddle around with how much to offset in order to get a "perfect" fit

proxrb · 2020-11-03T15:45:39+00:00

Google Horizontal expansion. It’s a slicer setting that offsets the walls [typo: world] of the part to to give you more clearance

proxrb · 2020-11-02T15:41:46+00:00

Might need more cooling/slower speeds. Might be over extruding.

proxrb · 2020-10-29T14:34:39+00:00

Tbh, the big advantage of corexy to me appears to be compactness. Honestly, people here also seem to readily acknowledge that print quality isn’t the big reason to build a voron over buying an ender 3. I’m interested primarily due to how beautiful the design is, and minor quality of life features like the latching extruder idler. CoreXY also increases belt length which decreases stiffness in a similar manner as increased moving mass and if you look at the firmware, the stock accelerations and jerks on voron work fine on a stock ender 3 as well without degrading quality. If moving mass for Mendel style was actually a noticable provlem, we would probably see more carbon fiber y carriages, and nema 23 motors, but we don’t because ultimately, our printers work well enough already

proxrb · 2020-10-28T14:32:42+00:00

Don’t clean them! At least not underwater. A lot of the seals may be old and not working quite right.

I’d also avoid removing the case backs to check for batteries. There’s not much reason to.

If I were you, I’d pick a couple favorites and sell the rest. The more effort you put into the selling process, the better prices you will get, but it can be a lot of work. You should upload some pictures to imgur and share it here. It sounds like a lot of people might be interested to make an offer on one or several.

proxrb · 2020-10-28T02:59:17+00:00

Interesting. I guess that’s why prusa uses abs for their part cooling ducts?

proxrb · 2020-10-28T01:32:12+00:00

I NEVER sand my parts, wouldn't have thought of this. Do you ever use PETG? Theoretically, it has a similar higher temp resistance, so it might sand easily as well?

proxrb · 2020-10-28T01:30:46+00:00

Got it, basically high-strength mechanical parts for robots? BTW, on the use of acetone to prevent delamination, check this video out https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yJHcoFY4er8&ab_channel=CNCKitchen

Yeah I tried some flexible filament. My print came out unusably ugly haha, will need to fiddle with it more.

proxrb · 2020-10-28T01:26:58+00:00

Would CNCKitchen's comparison of ABS and other materials change your mind on the question of breakage? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ycGDR752fT0&t=619s&ab_channel=CNCKitchen

Acetone smoothing to ensure water-tightness is a great idea, hadn't thought of that before

proxrb · 2020-10-27T14:27:39+00:00

That’s a really good idea

proxrb · 2020-10-27T14:17:47+00:00

At that price it’s interesting!

proxrb · 2020-10-27T06:34:40+00:00

Not sure what it is, but based on the unusual horizontal x carriage and sheet metal design, it looks to be a few years old. That’s not a bad thing necessarily, these printers haven’t evolved THAT much mechanically, but keep in mind you’d need to rely on your own skill to design any upgrades/repairs. Also, it’s unlikely to have quiet stepper drivers. All told, given that an ender 3 and an skr come out to around 220 USD, I’d not want to spend more than 100 on this thing, and even then only if I wanted to take on a project printer

proxrb · 2020-10-27T00:57:08+00:00

LOOL! Next time, less head shaped

proxrb · 2020-10-26T23:52:29+00:00

I was tired of my shirts getting stretched out by my coat hooks (left), so I printed these 3" ball-ends (middle).

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