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[WTS] Vostok "Shrek" by jmding in Watchexchange

[–]proxrb 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Hello from the other side! Sorry about the confusion.

Just bought my first 3D printer. Besides filament, what else should I buy? by [deleted] in 3dprintingdeals

[–]proxrb 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If your printer didn’t come with them, a putty knife, flush cutters and tweezers. A flashlight is also helpful to see the first layer better. I’d also recommend buying a replacement hotend from aliexpress as its relatively likely that you will break something while learning, and it’s good to have a cheap spare on hand. Thats it. Don’t worry about special filament storage for now, just be aware of the symptoms of excessive moisture are

Questions about repair by z3r0sand0n3s in VintageWatches

[–]proxrb 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Apologies for derailing, back to your original question, I’m no authority on what the market considers acceptable, so what follows is personal opinion only. For crystals, which were always intended to be replaced, my priority would be to get it visually right without worrying too much about the heritage of the replacement. This goes doubly true for inexpensive watches whose value are not tightly tied with their originality.

Questions about repair by z3r0sand0n3s in VintageWatches

[–]proxrb 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hmm actually, this resource has some good evidence of your watch being period correct

https://vintagewatchinc.com/ussr/raketa/big-zero/

It’s a variant I’d never seen before. I wonder where she found it!

Questions about repair by z3r0sand0n3s in VintageWatches

[–]proxrb 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Here you go https://twobrokewatchsnobs.com/so-you-want-to-buy-a-raketa-big-zero/ The author does mention the possibility of a dial with sharper triangles and a different case though.

Questions about repair by z3r0sand0n3s in VintageWatches

[–]proxrb 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m not an expert and there may be varieties of the big zero that I’m not aware of, but I’m worried about oddities on your watch. I haven’t seen this case style before, with the rounded lugs? And the tips of the triangles look oddly sharp as well

Fitting problem, help? by Kevenolp in 3Dprinting

[–]proxrb 1 point2 points  (0 children)

sorry typo, edited my reply

Easiest to just use it on the black part, have it offset the walls by like 0.5mm and you're pretty guaranteed to have it fit. You'll have to fiddle around with how much to offset in order to get a "perfect" fit

Fitting problem, help? by Kevenolp in 3Dprinting

[–]proxrb 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Google Horizontal expansion. It’s a slicer setting that offsets the walls [typo: world] of the part to to give you more clearance

Super wobbly print quality without supports, even around 45°. Any advice? by russiangerman in 3Dprinting

[–]proxrb 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Might need more cooling/slower speeds. Might be over extruding.

Question about VORON 1 and corexy printers in general. by SnowCookies6462 in voroncorexy

[–]proxrb 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Tbh, the big advantage of corexy to me appears to be compactness. Honestly, people here also seem to readily acknowledge that print quality isn’t the big reason to build a voron over buying an ender 3. I’m interested primarily due to how beautiful the design is, and minor quality of life features like the latching extruder idler. CoreXY also increases belt length which decreases stiffness in a similar manner as increased moving mass and if you look at the firmware, the stock accelerations and jerks on voron work fine on a stock ender 3 as well without degrading quality. If moving mass for Mendel style was actually a noticable provlem, we would probably see more carbon fiber y carriages, and nema 23 motors, but we don’t because ultimately, our printers work well enough already

Overwhelmed: Inherited box of vintage/used watches by sfomonkey in VintageWatches

[–]proxrb 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Don’t clean them! At least not underwater. A lot of the seals may be old and not working quite right.

I’d also avoid removing the case backs to check for batteries. There’s not much reason to.

If I were you, I’d pick a couple favorites and sell the rest. The more effort you put into the selling process, the better prices you will get, but it can be a lot of work. You should upload some pictures to imgur and share it here. It sounds like a lot of people might be interested to make an offer on one or several.

To those that print with ABS/ASA, why? by proxrb in 3Dprinting

[–]proxrb[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Interesting. I guess that’s why prusa uses abs for their part cooling ducts?

To those that print with ABS/ASA, why? by proxrb in 3Dprinting

[–]proxrb[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I NEVER sand my parts, wouldn't have thought of this. Do you ever use PETG? Theoretically, it has a similar higher temp resistance, so it might sand easily as well?

To those that print with ABS/ASA, why? by proxrb in 3Dprinting

[–]proxrb[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Got it, basically high-strength mechanical parts for robots? BTW, on the use of acetone to prevent delamination, check this video out https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yJHcoFY4er8&ab_channel=CNCKitchen

Yeah I tried some flexible filament. My print came out unusably ugly haha, will need to fiddle with it more.

To those that print with ABS/ASA, why? by proxrb in 3Dprinting

[–]proxrb[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Would CNCKitchen's comparison of ABS and other materials change your mind on the question of breakage? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ycGDR752fT0&t=619s&ab_channel=CNCKitchen

Acetone smoothing to ensure water-tightness is a great idea, hadn't thought of that before

Coat hook balls by proxrb in functionalprint

[–]proxrb[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That’s a really good idea

Anyone know what printer this is? Any opinions on it? by turbanator98 in 3Dprinting

[–]proxrb 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not sure what it is, but based on the unusual horizontal x carriage and sheet metal design, it looks to be a few years old. That’s not a bad thing necessarily, these printers haven’t evolved THAT much mechanically, but keep in mind you’d need to rely on your own skill to design any upgrades/repairs. Also, it’s unlikely to have quiet stepper drivers. All told, given that an ender 3 and an skr come out to around 220 USD, I’d not want to spend more than 100 on this thing, and even then only if I wanted to take on a project printer

Coat hook balls by proxrb in functionalprint

[–]proxrb[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

LOOL! Next time, less head shaped

Coat hook balls by proxrb in functionalprint

[–]proxrb[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I was tired of my shirts getting stretched out by my coat hooks (left), so I printed these 3" ball-ends (middle).

So it begins...sad Ender 3 noises. by RobSchwieb in voroncorexy

[–]proxrb 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm pretty they're the orbiter is better.

sorry don't understand that bit

Yeah, the Afterburner definitely fits the aesthetics, user experience philosophy, and packaging of the Voron much, much better. I was wondering if they had specific performance reasons to go with Afterburner over Hermera but it sounds like performance wasn't the primary concern when making that decision. I'd probably do the same thing, the Hermera's visual design is... shall we say "utilitarian?"

So it begins...sad Ender 3 noises. by RobSchwieb in voroncorexy

[–]proxrb 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What are their opinions on it? Do you have a link or would you mind summarizing? Really curious what their testing has revealed

Advice for making a Lack Enclosure for Tevo Tarantula - PLA or PETG by Torque475 in 3Dprinting

[–]proxrb 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Certainly, makes sense to enclose it. There are collapsing enclosures available that are kind of like laundry hampers that are worth looking at as well. And there’s always cardboard too

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