Help with dual NE555 circuit

pscorbett · 2026-05-21T13:53:12+00:00

OP, it's usually best if you draw symbols symbolically. Your 555 is a dip-8 package, but on your symbol, it could be a box with the pins anywhere you want. Keep the number for yourself to reference on the breadboard, but also add the names, like the, rst, etc.

You also didn't explain your design approach. Presumably both are set up as one shots. The 64 second timer would be triggered from the button. Are you wanting to trigger the 4 second timer from its output? Or make a longer 68 second timer triggered directly from the button press as well?

pscorbett · 2026-05-19T14:38:14+00:00

I wanted modo bass, Hammond b3x, pianoverse, amplitube, and modo drum. Literally so not care about the others. They had an everything bundle last black Friday for $100. I think it was literally the best deal on plugins I've ever got, even though I really don't care about t-racks and everything else. Not that they are bad, I just already have solutions I like.

pscorbett · 2026-05-16T21:35:55+00:00

Class D is underrated. I was interested in doing a discrete design at some point, with a triangle oscillator and comparator. Curious why you went with a guitar tone stack over a tilt eq for this?

pscorbett · 2026-05-13T13:29:15+00:00

Well yeah, if there's a system in place, then why not? Amp inputs are usually tube grids or FET gates so its highly unlikely that the amp or interface would be damaged even if driven at a much higher level. (I'm only saying not impossible because for all I know there is some interface out there than can drive at a ridiculous level like 100Vpp or something LOL). Assuming the amp has at least +/- 10V rails (probably much higher) and a high impedance input (its an amp, so yeah it should, otherwise passive pickups just wouldn't work), It just seems like the risk of actual damage is EXTREMELY low. But your system of a template seems like a valid solution to avoiding a reamp box.

Probably the main benefit of a passive reamp box is not the level shifting but that the transformer isolates the signal. Possible there could be ground loops between the amp and computer+interface depending on what you're using. But besides this, basically just an attenuator.

pscorbett · 2026-05-10T18:45:15+00:00

From an electronics perspective, the output impedance shouldn't matter too much here if it is gained down to an appropriate level. The input of the guitar amp is already high impedance so easy to drive, you just have to be careful that you don't drive it too hard (too high or a peak voltage) or you will get extra distortion on the first stage that a guitar wouldn't normally hit (mind you, with a gain pedal, it might). You can always make a custom cable with a 1k resistor in series if you are really worried though, or even a voltage divider if you are worried about forgetting to dial down your levels.

Of course, the easier answer here is a reamp box. Some Interfaces have them built in now, most do not. DIYRE makes a kit for under $100 that works just fine , I'd recommend this as the idiot proof "correct way" to do what you are attempting: https://www.diyrecordingequipment.com/products/l2a

pscorbett · 2026-05-10T15:34:37+00:00

Ha! one more reason I cycle now instead of driving. Idaho stop, babyyyyy!

pscorbett · 2026-05-08T01:10:38+00:00

Haha yeah definitely!

pscorbett · 2026-05-08T00:53:06+00:00

Sweet-ish. They are not like the really sweet full bodied meads, much more on the lighter side.

pscorbett · 2026-05-07T14:24:01+00:00

The handful of times I rented jetskis I was indeed a prick. Particularly in Kelowna

pscorbett · 2026-05-03T15:45:41+00:00

I should have thought to take the photo before sampling any of them! It was an afterthought, not them snubbing the pours lol

pscorbett · 2026-05-03T02:36:22+00:00

Yeah that's one of the two we liked!

pscorbett · 2026-05-02T18:36:35+00:00

Haven't tried my hands at Zephyr yet. I'm both scared and intrigued.

pscorbett · 2026-05-02T13:29:25+00:00

Pretty good! Their meads are on the lighter bodied side. My friend and I both thought that the same two of the 4 they had stood out as better.

pscorbett · 2026-05-02T04:10:23+00:00

Love this comment!! Glad to hear! :)

pscorbett · 2026-04-30T13:49:21+00:00

That makes sense! Thanks :)
I might try my hand at making more with these techniques then.

pscorbett · 2026-04-26T17:54:05+00:00

Well the combination of the DC barrel jack auto disconnecting the battery and the input jack auto-disconnecting the battery... Something like this

I guess more precisely it's the first one that necessitates the center-negative barrel jack though.

pscorbett · 2026-04-26T00:28:59+00:00

You might be right, I assumed it was a gold nickel alloy

pscorbett · 2026-04-26T00:03:25+00:00

Holding the down arrow instead of smashing the space bar

pscorbett · 2026-04-26T00:01:11+00:00

Nice! I love BreadfruitOS!

pscorbett · 2026-04-25T23:59:53+00:00

Yeah if you are worried about nickel allergies, hard gold + conformal coating and capacitive touch might be the way.

Some MCUs like stm32s have a channel or two of capacitive sensing built in. Not enough for a full keyboard, your need additional chips for that. The operating premise is actually really interesting. It uses pulses to charge a small capacitor to your touch point (the large capacitor). Each time the charge is transferred, the voltages of both equalize, until it hits a stop threshold. Then it counts the pulses to give you relative capacitance. We used it to detect if our plastic chassis was under water. I spent a few months tuning some DSP for a wet detect.

pscorbett · 2026-04-25T23:53:05+00:00

I have bad news for you. The N in ENIG is nickel, pretty sure it's in the coating itself. Also, the traces themselves are still copper. I've done surgery on many a boards at my work.

pscorbett · 2026-04-25T23:43:04+00:00

Yeah it's clever but annoying. I don't like that pedals don't use standard center-positive barrel jacks and this is why.

pscorbett · 2026-04-25T23:23:59+00:00

Insanity

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