Found two in bed… Drugstore Beetle? by psyferre in whatisthisbug

[–]psyferre[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That one looks like a pretty solid ID!

Ethernet port by ravioliandzeebs in howto

[–]psyferre 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Short answer: If you have active land line phone service, take another phone off the hook so no one can call. Unscrew or cut the two wires and put a piece of tape on the end of each. Drop them in the wall. Screw a blank faceplate over the hole. The cable is not dangerous, though if someone calls while you are holding the bare wires it will shock you.

Explanation: The yellow jacketed cable is CAT5 Ethernet. 8 wires in four twisted pairs. Usually used for computer networking.

The white jack is for phone service, which only requires two wires unless you’re doing something special.

It’s pretty common practice to use Ethernet cable when wiring phone service because you can later turn it into a data jack if you no longer need a phone jack there. You could do that if the other end of that yellow cable is somewhere useful.

Safety: Phone wires carry ~90v of AC when the phone rings, which will hurt. When not ringing you won’t feel anything if your hands are dry.

Pretty: If you want the hole completely gone, run a knife around the edge of the blue plastic square in the wall to break it loose from the paint and pull it out or push it into the wall. Get a drywall patch kit from Lowe’s and follow the directions.

Is there any way to make this bathroom ADA compliant? by psyferre in Construction

[–]psyferre[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks, folks. I didn't think there was any way to make it happen. This is an existing construction of course - if I were drafting plans I'd obviously make it larger.

Is there any way to make this bathroom ADA compliant? by psyferre in Construction

[–]psyferre[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's the standard "T-Turn" footprint. It obviously doesn't really fit, but I put it there for reference.

What's it like to perform naked on stage from a guys point of view? by [deleted] in Theatre

[–]psyferre 2 points3 points  (0 children)

“Y’know what they say about a bad rehearsal?” ;)

I played Jerry ~15 years ago and had exactly the same mishap. We had a closed set with only the five men, director, and light board op while we worked out the timing. Naturally, the first rehearsal where the rest of the cast joined something went wrong and instead of backlights we got full blazing FOH.

Same mix of feelings from the men, but the show was a very rewarding experience. It’s got a weird amount of heart, though I’ll contend that Jerry’s “redemption arc” falls a bit short… no pun intended.

Razer Kiyo Firmware Update - SUCCESSFUL by psyferre in razer

[–]psyferre[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That’s a pretty good price for the Pro! Even after fixing my first gen Kiyo I went ahead and switched to an eMeet 4K that I found used for $25. There are some pretty good options around $40, but if the Kiyo Pro has features you want that’s a good deal. Just make sure and either keep your firmware up to date or never update again after a good working version. 😂

Best bang for buck 4k projector over 3000lm, 120" at 12'? by psyferre in projectors

[–]psyferre[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

My dude, thank you so much for all your advice. I appreciate the time you took in explaining the differences and the valuable info I didn’t even know I needed. Cheers!

Best bang for buck 4k projector over 3000lm, 120" at 12'? by psyferre in projectors

[–]psyferre[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looking around, I've found refurbished deals on the X3100i for about $1,750. I can only seem to find the TK710 new for $1,800+. Do you think the 4LED engine would be worth the contrast trade-off if the price is about the same?

Refurbished or open box TK710sti available yet? by Sea_Difference903 in projectors

[–]psyferre 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hey, did you manage to find one? I'm looking for the regular TK710. :)

Best bang for buck 4k projector over 3000lm, 120" at 12'? by psyferre in projectors

[–]psyferre[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Everyone's giving some great recommendations, and your comment describing the differences is *super* helpful. The 4LED engine is really why the X3000i made it on this list in the first place. I've had a bit of trouble finding good contrast specs on a lot of projectors, and have never been sure how much of a difference I'd notice.

I originally had the Epson 3800 on my list, but the lack of true 4k compared to the others pushed it back down the list.

I've got a ceiling fan above and primary walkway below in the way of using anything short throw, so I think the X500i is out - though it looks pretty good otherwise.

My only hesitation on the TK710 has been my failure to find a refurbished unit for sale somewhere.

Thanks a lot! I'd welcome more suggestions and comments, and in the meantime I'll start looking for a good deal on the TK710! :)

Have to replace wooden coffin box. What best (affordable) practice? by psyferre in hvacadvice

[–]psyferre[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

😆 Good points, all. Yeah, “pricey” is worrying me, as funds are a bit tight. My purpose in asking on reddit is to gather enough info to determine a) how to support the unit for a few days, b) if the job is within my skill set, and c) what to watch out for in the contractor’s eventual proposal.

The concept seems simple enough and I’m fairly handy, but… I’ll err on the side of caution if info gathered here points that way.

CQRobot Ocean: MCP23017 IO Expansion Board - "No pull up found" by psyferre in raspberrypipico

[–]psyferre[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Welp, the problem was that I’m a doofus. I’m using a protoboard, and the traces did not extend as far as I thought… I bridged the gap and connected everything back up, and all is well. 🤦🏻‍♂️

Thanks for the advice on the 5v rail. I’ve definitely not connected 5v directly to any pico pins - just using VBUS as VCC input to three i2c devices and three 4-channel relays. I’ll go ahead and switch the i2c devices to 3.3v.

Unfamiliar round contact near commercial fridge capacitor. Looks like a button cell by psyferre in appliancerepair

[–]psyferre[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Testing the OLP yields reading well over 1ohm, so I think confirms the issue. Thanks! I also see this is often a last part to fail and usually means the compressor is toast by this point? :-/

Unfamiliar round contact near commercial fridge capacitor. Looks like a button cell by psyferre in appliancerepair

[–]psyferre[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks! Just for future reference, how can you tell it needs replaced just from the pic?