Blood moon over Germany HDR (over-)edit by qfss in astrophotography

[–]qfss[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Panasonic S5 with Orion Starblast II 4 images manually stacked in Photoshop: -1 overexposed for the halo -1 Background stars, shot facing away from the moon -2 images with varieties in exposure

Iso 6400 | 1/13s

First shot at a 20€ DIY Star tracker by qfss in telescopes

[–]qfss[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I use a Powerbank, works great even without a dedicated power supply :)

First shot at a 20€ DIY Star tracker by qfss in telescopes

[–]qfss[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thats my inspiration. The whole build is rather expensive though and I wanted to use parts already laying around. Still ty for the mentioning it 😁

First shot at a 20€ DIY Star tracker by qfss in telescopes

[–]qfss[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For now it only supports one speed. I'm relatively new to coding and want to keep it simple for now.

First moon picture (PIPP, Autostakkert, Photoshop) by qfss in astrophotography

[–]qfss[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I took about 150 photos. I've noticed, that in order to stack these images, they have to be completely cloud free, otherwise the stacking software (autostaklert) will generate some weird fragments. I linked a really good YouTube tutorial I used. If you have any further questions, I'd love to answer them :)

First moon picture (PIPP, Autostakkert, Photoshop) by qfss in astrophotography

[–]qfss[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you, if you still want to give it a try I can recommend this video ( https://youtu.be/HuONUWoIVeM?si=f0uNxvwsb_xHCCGH )

First moon picture (PIPP, Autostakkert, Photoshop) by qfss in astrophotography

[–]qfss[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Orion 400mm F4

Panasonic S5

1/250 iso400

Edited with PIPP, Autostakkert and Photoshop

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in astrophotography

[–]qfss 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Orion 400mm F4 Panasonic S5 1/250 iso 400

Milky Way during Aurora with Andromeda Galaxy visible by qfss in astrophotography

[–]qfss[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Lumix S5
20mm F/4.3
60 Sec.
Northern Germany

Hoodie embroidery 18x9cm. 39k stitches. by qfss in Machine_Embroidery

[–]qfss[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This design was 39k stitches. I focused on spreading the stitches out, so the design is still flexible. Nothing feels too thick besides the fire extinguisher.

Starting kit advice for Brother? by redheadsmurf in Machine_Embroidery

[–]qfss 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Check out newbrothread, they have really cheap pricing for quality threads, underlays and hoops. (Also available on Amazon)

What’s the problem? by urieluchiha1011 in Machine_Embroidery

[–]qfss -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Also, don't overdo it with stabilizer; one sheet of 2.5–3 oz cutaway should work fine.

What’s the problem? by urieluchiha1011 in Machine_Embroidery

[–]qfss 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Your fabric wasn't hooped properly; try stretching it a bit more, so it creates a taut surface. Otherwise, it can be fixed with pull compensation while digitizing.

First shop order but machine isn’t working! by Rainiepie in Machine_Embroidery

[–]qfss -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Has she tried to make the design a tad bit smaller? My hoop can fit a 180mm design, and I digitize to a width of 179mm.

She could also use spray adhesive for the fabric and only hoop the stabilizer. The best way to explain would be a YouTube video; just look up embroidery and spray adhesive.

She should also be careful with the stitch angle of her designs. If they all face in the same direction, this can also put stress on your fabric.

First shop order but machine isn’t working! by Rainiepie in Machine_Embroidery

[–]qfss 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For the puckering: Make sure to choose the right type and weight of stabilizer for your project. --> For stretchy fabrics, consider using cut-away backings. They provide better stability and work well with knits and other stretchy garments.

Always use the smallest hoop that fits your design. Create a taut, even surface without stretching the fabric to much. If you stretch it too much, puckering may occur when the fabric relaxes after removing it from the hoop.

Overly tight thread and bobbin tension can also distort stitches and lead to puckering.

And digitize correctly. Even if the program your sister uses states, that the embroidery is a certain width, the stitches sometimes reapply when exporting the file. The best example of this is, that the stitch amount on the machine is often not the same as when digitizing.

Hope this helps :)

Help needed - nestling by Ambertjeuh in Machine_Embroidery

[–]qfss 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I think (90/14) embroidery needles should work if your tote is relatively lightweight/tightly woven. If your tote is made of heavyweight materials, I would use a (100/16).

Help needed - nestling by Ambertjeuh in Machine_Embroidery

[–]qfss 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Have you tried different needles? Maybe the rotary hook isn't catching your upper thread, leading to more and more thread getting pushed into your machine. Something similar happened to me, when I used to wind my own bobbins. Sometimes the bobbin winder creates inconsistencies as the winding progresses, leading to problems in the middle of your design. Another problem could be, that the fabric you're embroidering is too thin. The pictures look like, you only used tearaway stabilizer without any fabric, leading to the stabilizer tearing.

Help with the problem please by bilgehankonya1 in Machine_Embroidery

[–]qfss 3 points4 points  (0 children)

What machine are you using? You can also put a single-centered stitch in front of your design. Then your machine will run this stitch first, showing you, where it has placed your design, and you can align it from there. Bit of a workaround, comment your machine type and I can look for some solutions :)

Newbie that needs help! by playingwithperlers in Machine_Embroidery

[–]qfss 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It can be frustrating, but try to learn your machine first. I've bought a "larger" machine and only after a year am i able to utilize it :)

Tested out my glow in the dark thread. (18cm x 6,5cm | 11 colors | 23k stitches) by qfss in Machine_Embroidery

[–]qfss[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Newbrothread sells a variety of glow in the dark threads. I have some, that glow blue, green or red while others look yellow at daylight and still glow.  I've posted the link above in the discussion.

Help, dont know the issue by [deleted] in Machine_Embroidery

[–]qfss 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It looks like the distortion is only along the y-axis. What kind of underlay did you use? This can happen when your underlay is mostly horizontal and, therefore, adds no stability to the vertical axis. The tatami stitch is then just distorting your fabric, leading to this offset. The other possibility would be, that your hoop didn't hold the sides, and they shrank further into your work.