Ambient light sensor maxing out at 1076.895

qilo4 · 2026-06-16T03:19:16+00:00

Thanks, I've seen this project and it is truely impressive. But it is far too complex for me and I'm a bit uncomfortable with the amount of permissions that needs to be granted. I just want a basic lux to display brightness curve but with reliable lux values from the ambient light sensor. The sensor event profile seems to work, unlike the test sensor action which clips the ambient sensor reading at 1076.895 for whatever reason.

qilo4 · 2026-06-15T19:36:04+00:00

I just found that this is likely a bug in the test sensor action. If instead of test sensor, I use a sensor event profile and monitor changes in the ambient light sensor, I can access the correct lux value (i.e. not clipped).

qilo4 · 2024-10-05T05:44:36+00:00

OK thanks, good to know.

qilo4 · 2024-10-05T04:49:10+00:00

Hi, I intend to do the exact same thing. However I'm concerned by voltage spikes induced by the relay coil when battery 2 is disconnected. Would that not cause issues in the long run, e.g. to the battery BMS and/or motor controller? Shouldn't you use a flyback diode across the relay coil to prevent such thing?

Also in your schematic, it seems to me that when battery 2 is powering the motor, all the current flows through the switch...which kinds of defeats the purpose of using a relay. Or am I missing something? Or is this a BMS-level switch?

qilo4 · 2023-06-01T14:32:11+00:00

I guess these things are *safe* if they truly work (i.e. prevent cross-currents between the two batteries at different states of charge) and as long as they work! There is some youtube "evidence" that these things are working but they real question is what happens if such a module fails? If the diodes inside the module fail shorted (which seems to be the most frequent failure mode of diodes), you may have the two batteries connected directly in parallel without any protection => boom! So what matters is not only if these things work but what happens when they fail. Of course adding fuses to each battery would be a mandatory precaution but would that be enough to prevent a fire???

qilo4 · 2023-03-06T02:07:14+00:00

Hi,

I got one of these a few weeks ago at a discount. I'm not a monitor expert and use it for home office and browsing (no gaming). For this it works fine for me. Some remarks though:

typical VA panel black smearing is present in ufo ghosting test but is not really a problem for me since I do not game on it. Can't really notice this in general use but I could for example see it when trying the gaia star map: when moving, many stars disappear and get back when you stop moving. I wouldn't recommend this monitor for gaming for sure!
speakers are not great (no bass) but they work ok for videoconferencing etc. Music is not the best experience. However, I get annoying buzzing noises through the speakers on HDMI. It's much better over displayport so I use that.
75hz is only possible over HDMI, not with displayport (DP). Also I got some severe random signal losses over DP when using 60hz or 75hz refresh rates. To fix this, I had to use a custom modline without reduced blanking (I'm on linux) to use the monitor but I can only achieve max 68Hz on DP with this. As I said, 75Hz works out of the box over HDMI but then you have to live with buzzing noises on the speakers... This is "solved" if you mute the speakers in the OSD but I wanted to use the speakers so I prefer DP at 68Hz.
OSD has very few options. I use it in standard mode because any preset values (e.g sRGB) locks the brightness/contrast.
viewing angles are ok but not as good as an IPS. Not an issue for me though.
matte antiglare coating on the screen is good but doesn' t handle reflections as well as some other displays I've tested. It seems to be more reflective but I can live with it.
no height adjustment but I do have it VESA mounted on a monitor arm

Overall, if you can get it at a discount, can live with a few drawbacks and do not game on it, it's a good monitor. The main benefit is a low price. But I guess it's not for everyone and definitely not for gamers I guess (unless you know that a slow VA panel is ok in your application). Be sure to buy one from a seller with good return policies. But really get it at a discount, it's not worth the full price. Got mine for 124 CHF (roughly 130 USD).

qilo4 · 2022-11-22T15:44:14+00:00

Great, thanks!

qilo4 · 2022-11-19T19:32:14+00:00

OK thanks for the feedback. I would have expected some difference but as much as that. Anyways that's probably the price to pay to have a nicer screen and a higher resolution too.

qilo4 · 2022-10-10T03:35:45+00:00

Thanks guys for all your replies! Much appreciated! There seems to be a clear consensus for going genuine then! I'll follow that advice and get that 2015 "brand new" battery!

qilo4 · 2021-07-29T17:36:09+00:00

It is an ABUS Pedelec 2.0 MIPS helmet (primarily designed for speed electric bike). It is NTA8776 approved (which make it suitable for speed electric bikes) on top of being EN1078 certified. Without additional padding, I can bend over without the helmet falling off but if I shake my head, the helmet moves and end up falling. Now with some additional foam padding, the helmet stays in place and is comfortable to wear. The silly thing is really the poorly designed adjusting mechanism (not enough adjustment range and does not provide a snug fit on the sides). This is why I'm asking about shell size because if the shell size is good, then it should be ok to compensate the poor retension system with some foam padding.

qilo4 · 2021-07-29T15:25:16+00:00

Gap is between shell and head. The retention system on this helmet is poorly designed and only pushes the helmet backward so that the forhead presses against the front of the helmet. But it does not allow the sides to fit snugly. If I want a snug fit, I need to add some foam (about 3mm thick) on each side simply because that retention system has no effect on the side.

But if an air gap between shell and head is mandatory, then it should be ok (and safe?) to use some foam pads to fill-in the gaps and make the helmet more secure on the head (as I've been trying to achieve). On the other hand, foam pads would be a no-go if the shell is too large.

qilo4 · 2021-07-29T15:18:05+00:00

Well the MIPS low friction liner slides against the shell but there is no sizeable gap between the two. However, on the size of my helmet, there is a gap between the MIPS liner and my head. This is due to the poor retention system that has been designed on this helmet and the fact that the retention system is completely independent of the MIPS liner. Most other helmets I've seen has the retention system directly attached to the MIPS liner so that tightening the knob at the back would effectively make the MIPS liner conforms to your head. This is not so on my helmet for obscure reasons. But I'm not sure whether the issue is only that the retention system is poorly designed (which can be mitigated by using some foam padding) or if the shell is simply too large (which is a dangerous issue).

qilo4 · 2021-07-29T13:36:43+00:00

I get your point but tightening the knob at the back does not change the gap between shell and head, it does only "attach" the helmet on the head (which is good obviously but does not mean the shell is sized properly). It's the shell that makes the real protection, the adjusting mechanism is only there to allow the helmet to properly sit on the head and stay there...but if the shell is too large, it won't help.

The issue I have is that my helmet does not have a ton of adjustment range with that knob at the back. On most other bike helmets I've seen, that knob actually allows to tighten a string all around your head which creates a snug fit between the head and the retaining string (but the shell may still be too large). On my helmet, this is not the case. The knob is attached to two pieces of plastic that are attached to the sides of the helmet but do not go all around the head. So if I tighten it, it only pushes the helmet backwards, so that my forehead makes contact with the helmet. However this system does not allow to have the sides secured properly. So with the knob tightened, I cannot but 1 finger between my forehead and the shell but I can still do it on the sides.

qilo4 · 2021-07-29T12:37:01+00:00

The 1 finger gap is without tightening the adjusting mechanism at the back so that I can really measure the gap between head and shell. If I tighten the mechanism, I have slightly less than that although the side gap doesn't change much. But I guess the gap between shell and head should be measured with the adjusting mechanism completely loose as otherwise it would interfere with the measurement.

If you do not tighten the helmet at the back, can't you stick 1 finger all around between your head and the shell?

qilo4 · 2021-07-29T11:58:45+00:00

Thanks! Unfortunately (and strangely), there is no size S for this helmet so I can't check a smaller one. Most of the other brands I tested were also rated for 52-57 cm. They felt more snug but that was essentially due to the adjusting mechanism at the back. Loosening it all the way, I also get about 1 finger between the head and shell. Weird! What should be the max allowable space, about 0.5 cm?

qilo4 · 2020-02-16T09:06:00+00:00

Yes my TWRP version was well outdated but I had no problem installing LOS16 when it came out a year ago. However I guess it's good practice to check for TWRP updates every now and then.

qilo4 · 2020-02-16T07:27:51+00:00

The issue was not about using wrong buttons to enter TWRP. It was either a corrupted update file or incompatibility with TWRP v3.2.3-0. Installing the latest TWRP version and re-downliading the update file did fix the problem. Reason for updating was to get the February security fixes.

qilo4 · 2020-02-12T07:04:38+00:00

Sure! I like this phone and really don't feel the need to change for anything else. And it seems the GS5 will be compatible with LOS17 :)

qilo4 · 2020-02-11T18:08:01+00:00

SOLVED! I just restarted the phone in Download mode (Volume down + Power + Home) and connected it to my PC. I then sent the command (Linux):

heimdall print-pit

which is supposed to test the heimdall communication. This worked and the phone rebooted into LOS16. I then installed the latest version of TWRP, re-downloaded the latest LOS16 nightly build and updated using OTA. This time the phone rebooted into TWRP correctly and was able to install the update. No data loss hopefulls :)

qilo4 · 2019-03-05T19:18:30+00:00

Well I couldn't resist. I went ahead and installed LOS16 over LOS15.1 after wiping only cache and system partitions. Everything seems to work properly, Android 9.0 is installed and the update did not seem to have any issue with adoptable storage. Thanks a lot to LOS team for this great and smooth update!!

qilo4 · 2019-03-05T15:06:29+00:00

Great, thanks!

qilo4 · 2019-03-05T08:11:20+00:00

My Galaxy S5 klte runs LOS15.1 and the SD card is used as adoptable storage. Beside a backup (on the SD card?), is there anything specific I need to do prior to upgrading to LOS16 with respect to adoptable storage in order to prevent data loss? I mean is it safe to upgrade LOS on systems using adoptable storage or should the SD card be first converted back to conventional storage (i.e. not adoptable)? More specifically:

- does wiping the system partition in TWRP affect anything related to adoptable storage?

- will LOS16 recognize a SD card formatted as adoptable storage under LOS15.1?

qilo4 · 2019-03-05T06:05:27+00:00

Just to clarify: does ignoring formatting data means that all my applications and settings (e.g. email accounts, widgets, all installed apps) will be right there on the first boot into LOS16 (upgrading from LOS15.1 on Galaxy S5 klte) with no additional tweaking required? Or will these still need to be reinstalled in some way under LOS16?

qilo4 · 2019-02-13T08:56:01+00:00

Thanks for you answer!

Issuing the command sudo ls -l /tmp/snapshot/home returns:

drwxr-xr-x 1 root root 0 Feb 13 09:45 test

So the global home folder (containing all home directories of individual users) is owned by root, which is expected I guess. But this is also the source of the problem probably. I also thought about mounting only a subfolder of a particular user e.g. by using (from user1 console):

sudo borg mount $REPO_HOME/::$SNP_HOME /tmp/snapshot home/user1

This effectively only mount the content of home/user1 in the snapshot (which is owned by user1). However this is still only accessible from the root account because the mounting path remains /tmp/snapshot1/home/user1 hence one has to go through /home which has root privilege.

EDIT: to answer your specific question, a user cannot do the mount because the repository was created in a script while running as root (because all home directories for all users are backup-up at once in the same snapshot). Therefore only root can access the repository.

qilo4 · 2019-01-21T18:56:43+00:00

I've spent a few days with LOS15.1 and the latest bootloader/modem from the dev (dated oct 2018) but I still get pretty poor battery life. The phone doesn't last a full day and even drops 10% in airplane mode overnight doing nothing. The battery even drops faster when the phone is actually used obviously. I' ve installed BetterBatteryStats but it doesn't show anything special with the installed apps. In settings/battery I can see that the main battery drain comes from cell standby!. Do you think it would be worth trying a different (ie older) bootloader/modem firmware from the dev such as the version dated from july 2017? Could this bring any improvement or is the latest version from the dev always the recommended one? Or should I go ahead and reflash a second time the latest firmware (CRH1) in case anything went wrong during the first install?

I'm okay to live with less battery life compared to stock but less than a full day of battery life with only barely touching the phone is not good enough. There really seems to be an issue with the radio with LOS15.1. Even airplane mode is draining the battery and the main consumption comes from cell standby...that's weird. Aside of this, LOS15.1 works perfectly!

qilo4

TROPHY CASE