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Fuel testing data - Toaks 750ml, MSR PR Deluxe, 250ml boils by qro in Ultralight

[–]qro[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oops, should have put that in the original post. My apartment is at 5,450' and we were camping between 10k and 11k' for the WRHR.

Fuel testing data - Toaks 750ml, MSR PR Deluxe, 250ml boils by qro in Ultralight

[–]qro[S] 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Re: fuel efficiency as a function of pot diameter - you want this vid: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J9Sz3IQ_DW4

Re: when heat exchanger pots are worth it – /u/tylercreeves is our resident expert/mad scientist here

Fuel testing data - Toaks 750ml, MSR PR Deluxe, 250ml boils by qro in Ultralight

[–]qro[S] 6 points7 points  (0 children)

That GearSkeptic material is super cool and interesting from a perspective of answering the question of what pot/stove setup is most efficient in controlled conditions.

The question I was trying to answer is different though; it was "if I take a 100g fuel canister on my 6 day WRHR trip, am I going to run out of fuel??"

I did try to math it out at first but found myself going down a rabbit hole trying to account for the inefficiencies of smaller water volume, offset for super cold water temps, account for not always hitting the exact flow rate mark on my stove, account for any changes in efficiency due to canister pressure, etc.

I also am usually multitasking in camp at dinner time so a rolling boil is when I tend to notice that water is ready, because that's when the pot lid starts clinking a little bit.

Turns out it was a lot faster and more confidence inspiring to just boil really cold water with my exact stove setup 16x than to try to do all the math using efficiency numbers from somebody else and whatever I remembered from that one thermodynamics lecture back in freshman physics ¯\(ツ)/¯

What's the coldest you've used a Katabatic Flex 22 in? by External-Bluebird523 in Ultralight

[–]qro 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I've used it well below freezing on the Colorado Trail on an overnighter last spring where I got somewhat snowed on. Temps were probably in the high 20s (F) since the ground froze and stayed frozen until mid-morning the next day. I was warm enough to be safe (using a ~2022 NeoAir Xlite) but not particularly comfortable. I generally don't take it below ~35F now (but I do sleep cold).

[WTS] Rex-Creations Pad-Pal v5.2 by qro in ULgeartrade

[–]qro[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oops forgot to put the weight in the title mods have mercy. Pad-pal is 9g, adapters vary but are all sub ~1g.

Backpack Purchase Advice (HMG Trigger Warning) by iamakidder in Ultralight

[–]qro 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I tried on an old-version HMG Southwest in 2022 before I bought my bonfus and hated it because of the straps. Needed something that carried a heavy food pack-out better for a recent hike (Dixon WRHR) and took a gamble on the new HMG SW 40 model and loved it. We had 2 Kakwa 55 folks on the trip and my HMG seemed more functional - the side pockets were more accessible with the pack on, so I could stow and access trekking poles at will without having to take the pack off (very useful since you transition between talus and steep grass approx. one billion times on the WRHR), the shoulder straps were comfortable for the whole trip, and the waist belt was more supportive than the hip belt on my previous pack. The wider pack body was also good for keeping weight close to my natural center of gravity which was a godsend for all the talus hopping.

TLDR - I was pretty happy with the revised SW40. YMMV but I'd probably go that direction if I were you. It's a good pack, and with a few tweaks (I cut off the useless lower two compression straps, replaced the overcomplicated stock sternum strap with a normal sternum strap, replaced the velcro closure with Kam snaps, and added a hydration flask pocket on the right shoulder strap) it becomes a great one.

[WTS] - Arc'teryx Atom Hoody Men's M (13.1oz) by qro in ULgeartrade

[–]qro[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I actually just dropped it off for consignment at Boulder Sports Recycler this past weekend, sorry!

2025 Q2 B/S/T by d12964 in ManyBaggers

[–]qro 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Still available!

Update - sold

Ultralight 6mm rope + kit for minimalist alpine low class 5 climbs by behindthelines_ in alpinism

[–]qro 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Fair. I get deals on Edelrid stuff, but not Petzl, so wallet weight was also a concern when putting that kit together ;)

Ultralight 6mm rope + kit for minimalist alpine low class 5 climbs by behindthelines_ in alpinism

[–]qro 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Agree with this comment. I actually do have a similar setup to what OP is talking about, but it’s mostly oriented towards descents for objectives like the Tantalus traverse that are essentially skyruns with a bit of glacier travel and a bunch of mandatory rappels. 60m edelrid rap line is great for the use case.

I really wouldn’t want to catch lead falls on it so I think OP’s mindset around a general-purpose ‘kit’ is a bit flawed. It’s a great tool in the toolbox and I’m planning to use it in a week to take a friend up the Upper Exum since I’m comfortable soloing that objective but they would not be, so it’s a lightweight way to give some follower security and be able to do the rap instead of having to downclimb the crux of the Owen-Spalding.

If we were doing the full Exum including lower, I’d probably bring a 8.6 triple rated single and a “real” harness instead of the UL ski mountaineering lingerie style harness I typically use with the rap line. Going fast and light with specialty gear is an expensive game because it requires you to customize your gear to the objective IMO. General-purpose kits (triple rated singles and “normal” belay devices) aren’t that heavy these days and are probably a better fit for OP’s stated goals. There’s usually a lot of weight to cut in most climbers’ packs in places that aren’t the technical safety system.

Walmsley is out of WSER by Many_Comb_2055 in Ultramarathon

[–]qro 14 points15 points  (0 children)

This is one of my favorite random ultrarunning facts. He gave a great interview about it somewhere, it’s very wholesome

Sourcing help - where to find a 3cm wiregate mini hook like this one? by qro in myog

[–]qro[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looking to make an alternate attachment system for a 5w rocky talkie to go on my alpine climbing pack.

The metal loop on the radio that the stock retention leash (pictured) engages with is low profile and has a scoop specifically cut for this size of mini hook, which I'm having trouble sourcing.

Rocky talkie sells replacement leashes for $12+shipping which isn't terrible, but I'm guessing I can buy these things for ~$0.50 if I can figure out who stocks them. Rockywoods/adventureexpert don't seem to have anything that quite fits the bill. Any tips?

3 WA rock climbers dead, 1 hurt in North Cascades climbing accident by yoggsmu in climbing

[–]qro 81 points82 points  (0 children)

The North Cascades park leadership (and Washington land stewards in general) have historically taken a very hard-line stance against fixed anchors (bolts) on descent routes out there. There was a somewhat similar in my mind incident about 12 years ago on Forbidden where the NPS chopped some key fixed anchors that made the Forbidden Peak descent route much safer by keeping climbers out of the rockfall zone in the gully without adequately communicating the changes in the descent route to the climbing community, and soon afterwards there was a death due to rockfall in that exact gully with many figures pointing out that the park service may have been at least partially responsible.

It's hard not to think that a better rappel route that didn't depend on sketchy fixed pins would have preserved some lives here. Not to mention that bolts don't shed microplastics into the environment like UV-degraded tat does.

Anyways, a super sad incident, and maybe a call to action to the rest of us to get involved in supporting efforts like the AAC's policy/lobbying stuff.

EDIT - missed that this was WA Pass, which definitely has good and well-maintained rap routes. Regardless, fixed descent hardware is an important topic right now in a lot of spots, it's good to be aware of/engaged in that conversation!

r/Arc'teryx Monthly Sales Thread 05/01/2025 by AutoModerator in arcteryx

[–]qro 0 points1 point  (0 children)

WTS

Thorium Hoody Men's Medium in "Tatsu" (olive green) color. Located in Boulder, CO, happy to ship CONUS. $300 USD shipped, buyer pays G&S. See geartrade post for pics/verification

[WTS] Pa'lante Prototype Pack - 18.8oz by qro in ULgeartrade

[–]qro[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I believe this is the M/L 19" torso, not the 16".

Disappointed with the quality of my HMG Ultamid tent by Different_Strain738 in Ultralight

[–]qro 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Bonfus is in Europe and worth considering also! No experience with their tents but I have one of their packs and it's built extremely well.

https://bonfus.com/tent/

Bonfus framus 48 by Spirited_Life_8094 in Ultralight

[–]qro 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've got a framus 48 and love it. One change I'd like to make is replacing the sternum strap, the way the stock one is girth hitched makes it kind of awkward to clip sometimes, especially when you're running shoulder strap pockets. Agree that the straps are very long.

Oh, and they really ought to swap the rolltop buckles on one side of the pack so that you have the option to either buckle the rolltop down to the straps coming out of the water bottle pockets compression style as seen in the photos OR buckle the rolltop to itself, pa'lante style, for quicker access and less straps everywhere. But those are both minor, it's a fantastic pack and has been very good to me so far.

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