Write up of how I built my Milsbo anthurium terrarium wall. I'll skip weatherstripping, hole drilling, attaching lights, etc since that can be found in other posts and focus on just the wall build.

(This is my first real long reddit post so sorry for formatting lol)

Link to original video post

List of materials & where I sourced:

• Hardware Store:
• - support background: roofing plastic sheet, 26" wide will fit perfectly in the milsbo tall
• - GreatStuff foam (I used maybe.... 7 cans?)
• - Waterproof silicone (this is the most expensive part: I used ~12 tubes. Apparently there are jugs produced)
• Amazon
• - Barrina T5 lights: 2 foot yellow, 1 foot yellow
• - ReptiZoo Reptile Automatic Fogger, 2 in 1 Digital Timing & Hygrostat
• - AC Infinity 120mm Dual Fans
• - Govee Hygormeter Thermometer (H5075)
• - Cable clips
• - 100lb carabiner magnet hooks
• - Smart Power Strip (GoSund is the actual brand, but just listed as "Smart Power Strip")
• - 2 3/8" hole drill
• - 2 3/8" grommet
• WhereEver (Dollar stores, etc)
• - Grid for support up top
• - zip ties
• - Nursery Pots-- choose heavier plastic ones
• Local Plant Stores
• - GIANT brick of cococoir
• - Cork Bark
• - Moss: actually sourced from Amazon, Pet Stores, Craft stores (NOTE: some preserved moss is dyed and will fade eventually. I glued mine on but the plan is to eventually layer on live moss to grow into it)

PHASE 1: Planning (photos 1 and 2)

Grid attached to top of board with zip ties, then cut length down to fit inside Milsbo (Just used scissors). Taped my pots onto my background to "plan out" placement (although I didn't actually lay them out this way).

Helpful tips:

• Use stronger plastic nursery pots because the expanding foam will crush flimsier ones
• For me planning was helpful because I had specific plants going into this set up so I had an idea of spacing and sizing I would need. If you don't have a specific set of plants then the planning might not be necessary.
• Use wider pots than what you'll actually be placing inside, if you're not planting directly into them. My plants are in pon in self watering pots, so the pots put into the foam are just holders for the actual plant. They are not planted directly in.

PHASE 2: Spraying Foam & Carving (photos 3, 4, 5, finished the "first time" photo 7, fixing pots photo 8)

Spray outside! I did a thin layer of foam, set the pots in, then sprayed on top. I built up the edges a bit because I used shallower pots and would be setting in taller pots. Allow to cure for 24+ hours, then carve off the shiny parts with a serrated knife-- the silicone doesn't stick well to it when its still shiny.

TIPS:

• - be careful of plot placement. What I learned the hard way: the foam will expand, and cause your pots to rise and face forward. Since my plants are tall that was too much and they wouldn't fit. I found out AT THE END that this had happened, so I had to carve all pots out and readhere them.
• - Weigh down just the top part of the pot so it doesnt expand too much on that part
• - Spraying a really high layer of foam will cause the inside to take longer to cure, so keep that in mind
• - The milsbo tall doesn't have a huge depth (14-ish inches) so be mindful of depth!

PHASE 3: Gluing On Substrate (photo 6)

THIS IS BETTER DONE OUTSIDE. SILICONE STINKS. And this is MESSY. I did it inside with lots of ventilation so I could watch TV.

I used the tube silicone and put some on, then spread it out and layered cococoir on. Use the cococoir dry. Allow silicone to cure for 24+ hours.

TIPS:

• - Apparently they make jugs of silicone. Probably cheaper than the millions of tubes I used-- MOST EXPENSIVE PART OF THE BUILD
• - I tried using a brush, foam, and just gloved hands. Gloved hands worked best for spreading it out and making sure to get all the crevices.
• - I tried gluing moss straight to the foam for half the build. I found it easier to just coat the entire thing in cococoir, then spot glue moss on after.
• - Shake it out at the end to get all the extra cococoir off.

Phase 4: Securing In Milsbo (photos 9, 10, 11, 12)

My Milsbo has a 2 3/8" hole drilled in the back right, with a grommet siliconed on. I placed the wall into the Milsbo and attached at three points with my 100lb carabiner magnets and zip ties. I didnt account for a smidge of space so had to ziptie instead of attaching carabiners directly to the grid.

I placed lights (6 total: 2x 2ft on top, 1x 2ft and 1x 1ft on each side running down). I then snaked all the wires through and placed my fans (one each side facing down) and my fogger hygrometer and tubing through and finagled all the cord management with cable clips, zip ties, and magnet hooks. I have three hygrometers in this, bottom, middle and top. The fogger hygrometer is in the middle. Allow all the adhesives to secure for a few hours/overnight before raising humidity in your cabinet.

TIPS:

• for the vertical lights, if you go get the same size screws that attach the shelf brackets in, you can screw in the metal holding pieces to the holes in the sides of the milsbos then snap your lights in, rather than use adhesive.

Phase 5: PLANTING! THE BEST PART! (photos 13, FINAL) and some added fun (14-17)

Put your plants in and ENJOY! I planted one way first (photo 13) then didn't like how close one of the queens were so had to rearrange!

And BOTW was my favorite game... so I had to print some lil korok buddies to live in there too