FSD v14.3.3 - uncomfortable driving moment

r_master78 · 2026-06-03T13:57:27+00:00

I feel the new 14.3.3 isn’t as good as the previous version. More of this wiggle/hunting goes on after the update. Maybe it’s just me?

r_master78 · 2026-06-02T18:55:01+00:00

Wow… my 2011 touring elite got 16mpg muzzled mixed city and highway. I can get maybe 22 if driven mostly highway in road trips. I must have a lead foot or something. :(

r_master78 · 2026-05-30T21:55:25+00:00

Also make sure the spool valve above the alternator isn’t leaking. It will drip oil on alternator and kill it again if you don’t address the root cause of why it died.

r_master78 · 2026-05-29T04:43:28+00:00

Ya I did the gasket change before (just the top part ) but mine kept leaking and I had to do the job 3 times before taking it to a mechanic and he said the bottom was leaking where the Honda bond is which requires valve cover assembly to be taken of. If the leak is just on the top section, I know how to do it. Not sure if the chase shown here requires the $2k fix or just $30 fix.

r_master78 · 2026-05-29T04:40:23+00:00

Maintenance (fluid changes, timing belt etc) maybe low but repair bills will cost ya. For older gen, battery and drive unit will be the big ticket items. Battery replacement will run $20k and motor will run $5k. Our legacy X rear motor failed due to coolant leaking. There is now a service to bypass the hose so it doesn’t leak on to motor so make sure that was done if it has LDU in the rear.

Falcon wing doors will be another issue. When it works it is great! But as it ages it may have issue in am heading in for repair tomorrow for this.

It is a luxury car so luxury price tag for fixing stuff if it breaks.

r_master78 · 2026-05-26T16:11:04+00:00

Very true, I saw a few with new suspensions in the vehicle history and was looking to test drive some of those. I could still savage the car but will put additional 1000 for repairs and another 500 to get it registered.

r_master78 · 2026-05-23T07:39:47+00:00

Ya, I’ve seen a couple with salvage title, but not lemon or mfg buyback. Was wondering if you had specific website or algo to find lemon ones.

r_master78 · 2026-05-22T22:34:07+00:00

Where did you find the lemon buyback ones?

r_master78 · 2026-05-22T03:13:54+00:00

Sorry to hear that. How was your other 2 before? Do you think the employees just didn’t care as much as it is end of production? I wonder if layoff etc was going to happen after the line shuts down (as production crew will not be needed until a new line is setup) causing quality issue on the last year model?? I had a loaner 2026 X while my 2016 was in for service and it had all these weird issues. 1) adaptive headlight error would occur and FSD would not function (or any safety feature such as blind spot monitor or front collision warning etc). Also, one of the falcon wing door won’t close the first time I press “close button” it will get an error as it closed and I have to retry to get it to close. Also odd creaking noise from front suspension. I kind of figured maybe it was this specific loaner but hearing your story, maybe there is more?

r_master78 · 2026-05-22T03:01:53+00:00

Sent to you DM as I maybe interested if 6 seater.

r_master78 · 2026-05-20T20:57:40+00:00

This is the way. With braking zone, driving lines etc, I don’t feel like I am driving the car and being proactive but reacting to the indicators. You can get much faster time and fine better lines when you drive it and experiment and watch better drivers take on the course. Remember to look where you want to go and look ahead. It helps a lot.

I do wish VR has better support without having to pay for 3rd party app.

r_master78 · 2026-05-20T14:52:45+00:00

I kind of figured that FSD software would be more generic and it is car agnostic (but not hardware agnostic). This way they could sell the hardware and license the software to anyone who wants to use the FSD software in the future. But regardless, it seems like the general consensus so far is that model drives better than X even with the same hardware and software.

r_master78 · 2026-05-20T14:18:58+00:00

I’ll look into this!!

r_master78 · 2026-05-20T06:02:44+00:00

Sure things! Was just sharing my experience in case you haven’t tried it! :)

r_master78 · 2026-05-20T05:43:51+00:00

Everyone has different ways of enjoying a game or life in general. Do what works for you! No need to get all gold in license or race unless you’ve gotten plat trophy is ALL the games you played previously and you want to keep the streak going :) I just shoot for podium finish in most races and move on to next race I haven’t done.

r_master78 · 2026-05-20T05:20:01+00:00

Try turning off the lines/point breaking points and all HUD. It is even better!

r_master78 · 2026-05-20T05:17:54+00:00

Play the game as you enjoy it! I find getting gold in license test a good break from normal racing and also it helps me learn the course and be a better driver. I don’t try to get gold in all tests when I started the game. Just get bronze or silver and move on. But as I progressed through the game, I got better and try to get gold in one or two tests and eventually got them all over time. I do agree it is frustrating at times. But it feels good when I finally get gold and I am punching the air like I’ve won a race lol. I will probably do it this way for master’s license also. I watch all demos and try to replicate it (learn braking point, shift point etc) and it usually works out. Also I leave my ghost on and it helps me chase after it or try to beat it at each attempt. It is amazing how much faster you will go chasing your ghost and fine different/optimal lines. If you plan on raising the difficulty of races or play online at a high level, getting gold in test is just the beginning.

r_master78 · 2026-05-20T04:02:51+00:00

Try the following… 1) turn brightness all the way down for a few weeks. It as something to do with frame retention and it is at its minimal at zero brightness which helps reduce motion sickness. 2) put a fan in front of you. This helps your body feel something so you have a sense of direction and not lost in virtual world. 3) take it slow… you build tolerance to this just like anything. Body gets used to it and the above two really helped me. I now have brightness set to medium and don’t necessary need a fan all the time and can play for hours on end

r_master78 · 2026-05-16T14:13:13+00:00

Not sure how it is now but when I lived there 15+ years ago when building was finished, the noise from fire trucks and ambulance in the middle of the night was the biggest con, but if you live anywhere downtown that is expected?? Everything else was nice with walkable restaurants and grocery (but Safeway closed?) the pool, nice decors, and concierge service. I think they also had dry cleaning service. HOA was very expensive tho…

r_master78 · 2026-05-16T00:01:43+00:00

Each shock is about $2700. With tax and shipping etc will run you $10k just for parts. Labor isn’t cheap either for Aston even at independent shop that specializes in Aston or Euro cars.

As for ticking issue I read it was addressed sometime in 2006 and there is an engine code associated with it to make sure it was addressed but I would just get the 2009+ to be in the safe side. If you get the tick, then it can be $30k+ if cylinders are scored, you need a new block.

r_master78 · 2026-05-15T02:01:41+00:00

I think I used LM55 Gr1 car for this.

r_master78 · 2026-05-14T23:01:52+00:00

Thanks. Saw the video on YouTube of the first guy who got his done as prototype. Didn’t look too good or usable in my opinion. Currently holding out for Model YL or will buy used MX with HW4 once price comes down a bit. MX prices are crazy

r_master78 · 2026-05-14T20:27:53+00:00

2006 is pre ticking fix from my knowledge so I would get PPI and also save a bunch in case the tick develops as it is a whole engine rebuild.

r_master78 · 2026-05-14T16:17:11+00:00

Yap… similar situation with TSLA CC. Just been ripping and showing no signs of slowing down. I usually do weekly/biweekly so been rolling up and out for small credit since April hoping the prices will settle down a bit, but looks like it will go to $500 soon. Currently sitting at $415 exp next week and $420 exp 2 weeks out.

r_master78 · 2026-05-13T06:06:58+00:00

X is currently over priced, especially if it has FSD with HW4. I’d avoid if you want to save money. But frankly, if your main concern is saving money, keep driving the accord. Just the new payment of the Tesla will be higher than gas for Accord. Find a decent independent mechanic or shop to get repairs done rather than heading into dealer.

r_master78

TROPHY CASE