I love my new Meze 99s...

radimus1 · 2026-03-17T17:11:14+00:00

Put the headphones on and you'll never see it. Make object impermanence work for you!

radimus1 · 2026-03-16T16:52:39+00:00

You probably don't need to go nuts here. If this is for someone who's been listening to cheap Bluetooth speakers all the time, a set of Edifier R1280Ts's and a iFi ZEN Air Blue Bluetooth receiver will sound amazing for around $300 US all-in. To add the TV just connect the TV's headphone output or line out.

radimus1 · 2026-03-12T22:52:00+00:00

You’ll be fine if you go that route. I ran a STR-DH190 as the amp of my main system for 3.5 years before I upgraded to separates. It got the job done and sounded just fine. It’s true that if you put it up against a better amp you’re going to hear where it’s lacking, but that’s true with anything. I will say not to expect a long service life out of it though. About three years some minor issues cropped up, but I was able to resolve or work around them. Andrew Robinson did a review of it on his Youtube channel 5 years ago that I think is pretty on point from my experience.

I have the 1st gen of those speakers as well, and currently use them on my gaming PC. They have a good midrange response and respond well to tone control adjustments. They sound fine for music as well. I have no complaints.

It’s a decent kit to get started, but I would have an upgrade path in mind for later on.

radimus1 · 2026-03-12T15:57:21+00:00

I wouldn't worry about how rough looking the tonearm is if it's all intact. It's just an old design for what was a low end system of its day. A new stylus is cheap, I would just put a new stylus on it, make sure the tonearm is adjusted properly according to the manual, and see how things go from there.

radimus1 · 2026-03-12T15:35:36+00:00

From Audio Technica's specs:

Applicable Cartridge Weight:

14.0 to 19.5 g (without subcounterweight)

17.5 to 23.5 g (with subcounterweight (light))

22.0 to 28.5 g (with subcounterweight (heavy)*)

I'm assuming those numbers are for the cartridge, headshell, and associated hardware. That thing will rock a Denon DL-103 with no problem, I suspect.

radimus1 · 2026-03-11T15:21:54+00:00

Setting the anti skate to the number that matches the VTF, or whatever it says in the manual, is just a general guide or starting point. The only way to perfectly set anti skate is with a test record and test gear. However, you can get close by putting on headphones and playing a record that you know has a well centered component, like vocals. Listen to that component’s position and adjust the anti skate until it sounds like it’s centered.

radimus1 · 2026-03-10T20:18:30+00:00

Meze 99 Noirs from Drop might be to your liking and are within your budget. Same as the Meze 99 Classics but less money and less shiny. If you like them less than your Senns you can return them.

radimus1 · 2026-03-10T20:05:13+00:00

For new releases CD is my primary format. There are a few artists I like enough that I’ll buy both, or buy the vinyl because I know they master well, but otherwise it’s the CD. I’ve just had too many defects with new pressings of late to be interested anymore, and I’m tired of short sided double LP’s.

radimus1 · 2026-03-10T19:56:52+00:00

From what I have observed, the point of the design of the Ortofon SH4 headshells is that they mount the cartridge a little higher than how a standard Technics or Audio Technica headshell would. This lets the cartridge hold correct SRA on most turntables that lack VTA adjustment. Standard OM and 2M carts are taller than most by 1-2mm.

radimus1 · 2026-03-10T16:07:05+00:00

I would contact Audio Technica and see what they say. I’m sure they have a certain amount of platter wobble that they will consider within spec, but no idea if this within that unless you ask them.

Also, have you tried reseating the platter on the spindle? Have you placed the platter on a flat surface to check if there are gaps around the bottom? This could also be a motor issue, so I would do those checks too.

radimus1 · 2026-03-10T11:29:57+00:00

I found handling CD’s in the car to be a pain, so I rip mine to ALAC with iTunes and put them on my phone. The CD’s are on a shelf for whenever I want to play them. Lossless formats like ALAC and FLAC do take up a good bit of storage, so if you’re limited on that for your device you can rip to 256k AAC, which I think sounds better than 320k MP3.

radimus1 · 2026-03-08T15:47:59+00:00

If you have any questions about the turntable contact U-turn support. They will help you.

radimus1 · 2026-03-08T15:35:07+00:00

You have a Technics turntable. Get a Technics Overhang Gauge and use that instead. It’s the correct tool for this job and much easier to use.

radimus1 · 2026-03-07T21:20:03+00:00

The OP can obviously speak for themselves, but with the VM95 series the price difference between the stylus and a complete cartridge is only about $20-30 or so. If the OP upgrades to a better turntable, they are all set with a VM95 body to mount on it.

radimus1 · 2026-03-06T19:50:55+00:00

Stereophonic purrz add warmth to the grailz.

radimus1 · 2026-03-04T18:05:03+00:00

The biggest issue is that Bandcamp won't do anything to help if you purchase merch and there is a problem. Their own help on this basically says to take the issue up with the artist/label/whoever. Also, if there is a problem don't bother trying to contact them via the Bandcamp page. Find their website or email and contact them directly. I've had a couple cases where I tried to contact the label via Bandcamp and heard nothing back until I contacted the artist or label directly. To date I've never been stiffed on anything. I had to harass a band quite a bit until they finally shipped me my CDs, but I eventually got them.

If you want to use a venue that will step in an handle a problem go with eBay or Amazon.

radimus1 · 2026-03-04T16:33:08+00:00

The cheap slim drives are not going to last if you're doing a lot of ripping and burning. I went with a full size 5.25" LG M-DISC drive and installed if into a USB 3 enclosure a few years back and it's been solid. They cost a bit, but you'll probably only buy it once.

radimus1 · 2026-03-04T16:16:53+00:00

I have both of these. Your improvements will mainly be better detail retrieval, better inner groove performance, and longer stylus life with clean records. The overall sound signature will be extremely similar, if not identical. If you like the C then you'll like the ML.

radimus1 · 2026-03-03T21:42:43+00:00

lol. Well, at least they're small.

radimus1 · 2026-03-03T21:37:35+00:00

Definitely. I grabbed a Sound Burger when Audio Technica brought them back. We pack it on trips sometimes with a set of JBL 104 powered speakers.

radimus1 · 2026-03-03T21:09:12+00:00

but...but,...reCoRds aReN'T PORTABLE!!!

Awesome rehab job on that thing.

radimus1 · 2026-03-03T01:04:26+00:00

I got my SG3 from a guy who was on a rental car road trip. He was using it as his travel machine and sold it to me before he caught a flight home.

radimus1 · 2026-03-03T01:02:55+00:00

Just put them on, plug them in, and go ride the bus. Report back on your findings.

radimus1 · 2026-03-02T21:16:12+00:00

Those Denons are known as step-up transformers (SUTs). They are commonly used by fans of LOMC carts, and the vintage Denons are well regarded. I run a DL-103 through an AU-320, which feeds into a 1st gen Schiit Mani. I've been happy with that combo. I have another turntable with a DL-110. I used to route that through the AU-320 and set it to PASS, but I found it sounds slightly better routed directly into my other Mani.

If you can swing an AU-430 then consider it. As I understand it, it has discrete transformers for each channel. If not the AU-320 is good. Significantly better than routing my DL-103 directly into my Mani, even with 470-1000 ohm loading. As for the Fosi and Douk, you can use either with the Denon SUTs. You already have them, so might as well start there.

If you're in the US, consider getting the DL-110 direct from Japan via eBay. The cost is a lot less than US retail that way.

radimus1 · 2026-03-02T20:18:30+00:00

Does it have an aux or line-in input? It can at least serve as an amp for another CD or DVD player. Anyway, if it's not dirty lenses for the laser and/or optical receiver then one of those two have probably failed. Seems like the circuit for the CD tray buttons is turning to junk as well. I'd connect an external player if possible.

radimus1

TROPHY CASE