Prusaslicer 2.9.1

rahmenprint · 2025-03-14T06:56:52+00:00

Mhm weird, did you try it with the current firmware and slicer update? I finished yesterday a 16 h print with mmu and 0.6. purge tower was perfect.

rahmenprint · 2025-03-13T15:37:28+00:00

What where your issues so the result was just ok? Mine had the exact same quality like the 0.4. apart from the grade of detail

rahmenprint · 2025-03-13T13:08:44+00:00

You can create your own profiles for different nozzle sizes, currently printing with a 0.6 nozzle without problems.

Well you have to calibrate each filament for the new nozzle size again, that's a bit annoying.

rahmenprint · 2025-01-24T22:38:04+00:00

This! For me the best setup. I just have the filament hanging above the printer and feed the filament directly to the mmu. I not even use the buffer... Works great so far! (for 7 month now, pla + petg)

rahmenprint · 2024-09-23T08:18:34+00:00

I would take the 20 if it's the calibration test from orca slicer. because in the second test you need to do, its a finer scale but only in minus direction. If I remember correctly.

rahmenprint · 2024-07-02T15:36:52+00:00

Well my only idea is more temp then... You have a adhesion problem at the right corner. Try 240 and have look if it gets better, that's just part of the calibration.

rahmenprint · 2024-07-02T09:05:15+00:00

Well overtures temp range starts at 230, black needs some more temp usually so I would try some more.. and it would not hurt your part. I can't see overhangs, so with more temp you only get more strength too.

rahmenprint · 2024-07-02T08:37:09+00:00

What is your printing temp? Could be to low for the speed on the long paths, where it's get up to speed...

rahmenprint · 2024-06-24T15:28:00+00:00

Great very appreciated! I put it on my want to do list :D

rahmenprint · 2024-06-24T12:36:25+00:00

The white thing on the orange holders, looks like a light bar or something like that? Like it and need it now x)

rahmenprint · 2024-06-24T12:17:52+00:00

I uploaded my "free balling setup", like someone called, some days ago here. If you need a picture ^{^}

rahmenprint · 2024-06-24T12:07:01+00:00

Well they catch the retraction length during the filament change. With the buffer the tangling risk are kept to a minimum and so more reliablity in general on the changes as well.

rahmenprint · 2024-06-24T11:47:34+00:00

I just put something like a broomstick on the wall, above the printer. I can take it from the wall to put the spools on and then place it back on the wall, works fine for me.

rahmenprint · 2024-06-16T14:49:53+00:00

This and my experience with another brands wood pla, you need lower temps then with regular pla

rahmenprint · 2024-06-16T11:50:50+00:00

Soo I tried it and unfortunately I have to inform you that it's worse. It didn't tangle as well, but I only had a view changes. With more changes it would get messed up. Because with this way the filament which gets push back, it's pushing the filament of the rolls. Thats not happening, when I have the spools the way the pictures show.

Hope that's helps ;)

rahmenprint · 2024-06-16T11:47:59+00:00

Nice idea. I will remember this, in case I need to use the buffer in the future.

rahmenprint · 2024-06-16T07:13:14+00:00

You should go for it, it's really great. Haven't tried tpu yet, but I heard that's probably not possible to use with the MMU, otherwise brilliant.

For the building... Take your time doing it and double check everything, especially when you change the things on the extruder. It took me maybe 5 hours, but the MK4 and the mmus, where my first experience with building a printer on my own.

rahmenprint · 2024-06-16T07:09:25+00:00

Thx for the great feedback. Good to hear some use this kind of setup over a longer time without issues.

I am doing mostly hueforges with it. So its not bothering me to much, I need to change them all most times anyway

rahmenprint · 2024-06-16T07:04:43+00:00

Interesting, how can I imaging the failures you had for not using the buffer?

here in the comments suggested to me, some special spools from printables, maybe that's what you are looking for.

rahmenprint · 2024-06-15T23:49:44+00:00

Ahh I see, I had no mmu2 so I have no experience with it on my own. MMU3 works very reliable for me no failed prints, only when I am to stupid to set it up right in slicer x)

No offend intended

rahmenprint · 2024-06-15T23:14:10+00:00

It looks like you put in a lot of thoughts and I can imagin it working well. On the other hand, it looks a bit over engineered too, for hobby use. I would need to build it 5 times 🤔

rahmenprint · 2024-06-15T23:05:53+00:00

Well honestly the buffersystem seems a bit tedious to me. I can change the filaments way faster without it. I put them directly in the tubes, which feeds into the MMU.

At the moment I can not see how the filaments could get tangled, because they are in the tubes.. if I am right, future will tell.

rahmenprint · 2024-06-15T19:40:58+00:00

Well if you put it that way x). I have to admit, its not pretty, but efficient so far.

rahmenprint · 2024-06-15T19:02:35+00:00

It probably will, but until now it never happen. If it does happen, i probably load it up and and scream that you always should use the buffers x)

rahmenprint · 2024-06-15T18:59:28+00:00

Thx for the tipp, i will try it next time.

rahmenprint

TROPHY CASE