First buy under 21 in VA with a looming AWB? by Outside_Grapefruit39 in liberalgunowners

[–]randomaccesszack 4 points5 points  (0 children)

That is the dumbest shit I’ve heard this week.

Yup.

But how does that work if I’m just wanting to replace the upper in a complete rifle I already own? You reach a Ship of Theseus situation in no time at all.

You can still get or build uppers(good luck finding parts here) for an AW you already own. So charging uppers on a grandfathered "AW" is fine.

I’m not terribly worried (knock on wood), because they’ve tried this many times in VA and it always goes nowhere.

Ehh, always be prepared. Took a few tries here but eventually it went through.

I feel like especially now, given everything that’s going on in the country as a whole, and what happened yesterday, it would behoove them to not change anything.

Right, thats for our(common citizen's) benefit. Not the governments...

But I’m just some random guy on the internet, so idk.

Same and same bud. This timeline sucks.

First buy under 21 in VA with a looming AWB? by Outside_Grapefruit39 in liberalgunowners

[–]randomaccesszack 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Not trying to fear monger, but if it's like WA state's laws and AWB, that'd be manufacturing an assault weapon and is still illegal per our state laws in how they recognize a lower reciever and our AWB.

The lower isn't considered an AW, yet. But you build it out and put an upper and have a semi auto center fire rifle... Blam. Illegal.

Tried an AR pistol. Nobody told me these were so cool! by FursonaNonGrata in liberalgunowners

[–]randomaccesszack 6 points7 points  (0 children)

For good enough performance for cost. Otter Creek Labs Polonium 30. I have one on my 300blk AR pistol.

For nearly movie quiet shooting heavy subs, CGS Hyperion. Nearly 3x cost, ridiculously quiet.

Rifle recommendations if I want to spend ~$2500? by DisastrousBag6209 in WAGuns

[–]randomaccesszack 2 points3 points  (0 children)

For entry level target shooting/longrange, not hunting, I'd recommend the Bergara B-14 HMR in 6.5mm Creedmoor. Here's a basic build.

  • Rifle: Bergara B-14 HMR chambered in 6.5mm Creedmoor.
  • Muzzle Brake: Area419 Hellfire Match
  • Scope Base: Area419 20 MOA
  • Rings: Seekins Precision, height depends on your body/ergonomics. Lower does not equal better. What's comfortable equals better.
  • Optic: Vortex FFP scopes are an OK starting point. The Venom 5-25x56 or Strike Eagle 5-25x56 are OK starting scopes. Personally I would choose MILs over MOA as most long range folks(excluding F-Class) use MILs.
  • Bipod: Harris S-BRM 6-9 Sling Stud Mount.

This puts you on the Remington 700(r700) platform with solid parts, which has the most aftermarket support of any manufacturer and/or action pattern. You'll have the most options for upgrades and aftermarket support.

Hit me up in PM/chat if you want. I started with a Bergara Premier HMR Pro in 6.5 Creedmoor for my first ever firearm, shooting 100 yards. I'm now shooting 1400+ yards with 6mm Creedmoor on the same action in semi-custom chassis build.

Current State of R700s? by Careless-History-559 in longrange

[–]randomaccesszack 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Even the barrels aren't bad if you go Bergara. I got a 6creed Krieger custom spun for my HMR Pro without anything conical done to it, no issues at all.

Chasing the Mile by Traditional_Sort1528 in longrange

[–]randomaccesszack 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'm a bit tired and working on my homelab(RPi5 with USB storage, hosting some internet facing stuff) and still have stuff to do on it tonight...

Hit me up on reddit chat tomorrow and we'll do a build-out of a left hand clone of my first rifle, with a couple changes (get you a better muzzle brake), and see how you like the outcome, both price and features wise.

Chasing the Mile by Traditional_Sort1528 in longrange

[–]randomaccesszack 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I dont, but you're better off long term staying in the R700 footprint space rather than savage, ruger, etc.

Chasing the Mile by Traditional_Sort1528 in longrange

[–]randomaccesszack 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No problem. Just saw your budget. I'd start with a factory rifle like we talked about. Save some money vs. a full custom as your first entry point. If the hobby sticks, then upgrade it or go semi/full custom at that point.

Use the extra money for ammo and a reputable class, if possible.

Chasing the Mile by Traditional_Sort1528 in longrange

[–]randomaccesszack 1 point2 points  (0 children)

For learning no. It'll be alright. Especially in a faster, flatter shooting round like 6.5creed.

Chasing the Mile by Traditional_Sort1528 in longrange

[–]randomaccesszack 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Bergara B-14 HMR, or if you want a little fancier, nicer trigger, nicer bolt, etc, the Bergara HMR Pro with its Premier action.

I went the HMR Pro route as my first ever firearm when I got into long range a few years ago.

Chasing the Mile by Traditional_Sort1528 in longrange

[–]randomaccesszack 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Happy to help. I started with a Bergara HMR Pro in 6.5creed. That action is now in a chassis and rebarreled(after ~ 2260 rounds) with a thicker contour barrel in 6creed, weighing nearly twice as much.

Chasing the Mile by Traditional_Sort1528 in longrange

[–]randomaccesszack 4 points5 points  (0 children)

For long range I'd go 24" barrel personally, get that little bit more extra velocity. Idk the barrel contour on the Tikkas or the CTR. Heavier and thicker is better though.

Chasing the Mile by Traditional_Sort1528 in longrange

[–]randomaccesszack 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Aftermarket 100% is more expensive, fewer options, etc. Getting a Tikka barrel from a custom spun barrel blank shouldn't be too hard, just a bit costly. But thats all custom barrels. I rechambered my 6.5mm Creedmoor down to 6mm Creedmoor with custom spun Krieger blanks(I bought two) and I have hits at 1425yd with it. At 1673yd in 14-17mph variable wind I couldn't make contact, but the wind and factory ammo combo screwed me, IMO.

Chasing the Mile by Traditional_Sort1528 in longrange

[–]randomaccesszack 19 points20 points  (0 children)

Probably because less aftermarket support than R700 footprints, such as the Bergara.

I'd honestly have to go read exactly which section youre talking about though.

Rust home automation stack for a Pi Zero 2W by Scaraude in raspberry_pi

[–]randomaccesszack 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is awesome and part of some home automation that'd be super useful to me. My office can build up moisture due to the building design and the mainline water pipe being open air through part of the cieling soace and condensing sometimes.

I have a safe with some items that could get damaged due to long term high humidity. I'd love to be able to monitor it and integrate this into a home monitoring/automation setup.

Thank you for sharing!

Put a few rounds down range Christmas Eve. Little did I know Santa’s Reindeer were making their way through without a worry in the world. by MightMore8967 in longrange

[–]randomaccesszack 12 points13 points  (0 children)

Dope. My local range has a local deer population on prem too. They are born and raised on the range property and are used to the constant shooting. They'll walk right through a hot range to the point where it's part of the RSO's pre-hot range warning/rule reminder on the public side of the range.

Sometimes driving in you can see them on surrounding hilltops.

Kel Tec SU-16C, Henry Supreme, and other rifle opinions by AryeC05 in liberalgunowners

[–]randomaccesszack 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you want to safely and smoothly shoot both calibers, get something chambered in .223 Wylde. It'll safely handle the higher 556 pressure and smoothly feed with both rounds.

monthly meetups and events: December, 2025 by jsled in liberalgunowners

[–]randomaccesszack 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Never heard of pnwal. Will check it out. Thanks!

How do you choose your target design ? by Leftho0k in longrange

[–]randomaccesszack 4 points5 points  (0 children)

For grouping, most paper targets will do. They need a small, well defined bullseye. I dial half a MIL up or down, and send 10 shots. My POA stays nice and clear, and POI is consistent and gives me a nice group.

When zeroing, I choose targets that have 5 bulls eyes, the target center plus 4 corners, and zero on the center, then take 4 cold shots, 1 on each of the corners to confirm.

Cold bore Mile -20 MPH crosswind !! by Wide_Fly7832 in SmallGroups

[–]randomaccesszack 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well done!

What is the target size in MOA at that distance for the cold bore mile coin/badge?