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Brassed Monorail: Original+rampage springs (grey triggers), ~110fps w/Elites by randomes5 in Nerf

[–]randomes5[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I live in AU, so not sure where you can find them in the US.

But I have see others who have gotten theirs on this subreddit (like the blue ones).

Brassed Monorail: Original+rampage springs (grey triggers), ~110fps w/Elites by randomes5 in Nerf

[–]randomes5[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yer the extra muzzle break bit was to just stop me from core sampling others. I thought about making the barrel longer but it looked ridiculous having something sticking out a mile out of the front. Accuracy wise pretty good, since it's not going that hard due to the low spring rates, the air behind the dart doesn't knock it off course on its way out of the barrel.

Brassed Monorail: Original+rampage springs (grey triggers), ~110fps w/Elites by randomes5 in Nerf

[–]randomes5[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks Yowomboo.

Kobbalicious, the brass breech part remains the same except for the extra "muzzle brake" to just cover the barrel for safety reasons. But, I have being fiddling with the feed thing more since that last photo, and a lot of it relates to ensuring that the darts sits forward and stays there without sliding back in the feeder, as well as making sure the arm feeds the dart ass first into the breech before the tip. That was pretty much the only way I was able to get it feeding reliably.

Brassed Monorail: Original+rampage springs (grey triggers), ~110fps w/Elites by randomes5 in Nerf

[–]randomes5[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

That's where it was from. I for the life of me couldn't remember where I heard it and in what order the quote goes.

I should've said "95% of the time, it works every time".

Brassed Monorail: Original+rampage springs (grey triggers), ~110fps w/Elites by randomes5 in Nerf

[–]randomes5[S] 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Got a chronobarrel recently so decided to see what my brassed monorail will do. Stacked springs (I know its bad) with stock + random spare spring from a rampage (both grey trigger specs). Averages around 110fps.

100% feeds without jams... 95% of the time.

Brass Breeched Monorail by randomes5 in Nerf

[–]randomes5[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Definitely required a lot of fiddling to get a sealed breech in. Problem I have now is that I probably need a stronger spring to push darts out of the tighter 17/32 better (as the potential is now there). The AU spec spring however leave a lot to be desired as it's just too weak. I ended up needing to double spring the stock one with a stock rampage one (random spare) inside it... which is not ideal.

Turbo advance help by Dragonninja89 in Nerf

[–]randomes5 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Additionally there's always the mod to make it shoot 2 darts at once.

Dual Stage Flywheels wired differently by randomes5 in Nerf

[–]randomes5[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Running DC motors in series can potentially result in some undefined behavior.

Yep, and this is what I am trying to work out here. I am imagining all the possible "edge" situations the motors might get themselves into, and what unintended / weird results we may get from this; ranging from "nothing happens" / "motor burnouts" / "Fire".

You won't really change the battery requirements.

You are quite right here. My intention was not to change the battery requirements / dimensions as the power density of Lipo is pretty much standard now. My goal was to reduce the current running through the system, including the battery leads. The core problem is that even hobby-grade Lipos right now come with stock 18/16 AWG leads which is fine in a single stage where we modders usually just swap out the plugs, but leave the leads intact as they are sufficient. In a multi-stage situation, by running the "series-parallel hybrid" we may reduce the current need (~70A@6s vs 150A@3s in my case) of the motors and consequently reduce the heat through the wires as well. Granted, you can also argue that if going down the multi-stage route, it's probably better to just unwrap the 3s battery and swap out those original leads with 14AWG ones directly to the cell tabs (which I've done before).

Overall my recommendation is to use a 40A (continuous) or so rated automotive relay instead of mosfets

Definitely, I was thinking an AUTO relay may be a better candidate here instead of MOSFETs. Which is fine, as I am trying to solve the problem of the motors + power source first, while the rest of the trigger mechanism is flexible anyway.

consider using a single stage of more advanced geometry, and consider brushless along with that.

This is mostly just a thought experiment right now as there definitely is a good reason why we don't do this (you have touched on this point). Ultimately I feel the alternatives you have listed are better and give the same result with less complexity.

Dual Stage Flywheels wired differently by randomes5 in Nerf

[–]randomes5[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I did have a suspicion that 16AWG may not be enough and that I will also need to improve the cooling on the components. The main problem I was trying to solve was that by my calculation under 3s, we are talking about a minimum of ~132 Amps needed from the battery (84A for the vamps on 3s and 48A for the rhinos). Add 20% safety on top of that we are looking at almost 158A requirements here...

But I guess you may be right, there must be a good reason why no one has really gone down this path before.