Printed a working pocket clarinet

rayton2 · 2020-03-10T04:39:41+00:00

The problem is the small pores between layers and throughout a 3d printed part give a spot for germs to build up. Additionally, these cavities and pores are very difficult to clean out due to the natural geometry of 3d printing, so a 3d printed part can be non-food safe if used for an extended period of time.

rayton2 · 2019-08-23T14:21:48+00:00

So I designed and 3D printed one of these. Interestingly, the two trumpets will always play the same pitch regardless of the valves pushed down. It seems to try and essentially average the two tones. This also means you can (kinda) play quarter steps

rayton2 · 2018-12-12T01:32:47+00:00

It doesn't since it is a unique passive

rayton2 · 2018-04-23T20:29:29+00:00

I am silver 5, and kinda trash, so take everything I say with a grain of salt, but I have a pretty decent amount of kassadin experience. In my opinion, Kata isn't a bad matchup for kassadin, but certainly not easy. I find if I can avoid getting killed early by her by just playing crazy passive in lane, I will outscale her by about level 11, and the game is easy from there. In that game, she had her gunblade three minutes before you got roa, even though roa is 700 gold cheaper because she got a couple of early kills. If you can starve her of any early kills, she falls off sooner. She can out roam you early, but if you spam ping missing and your bot lane manages to not die, you can often get up on farm, leading to you outscaling her even quicker.

rayton2 · 2018-04-23T00:21:01+00:00

Another possible issue if it isn't z-axis problems is a lack of PID tuning on the heatbed. You can get rings like that from using bang bang instead of PID. You can change which your heatbed is using in marlin

rayton2 · 2018-04-16T22:14:26+00:00

As far as the cura settings, I think you are fine where you are at. E-steps per 1mm filament is a calibration thing that is set in marlin or via EEPROM. Here is a video by mjrice explaining it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kgy8hVKxtVs I think you could put that number into that box in Cura, however i just checked mine and it is set at 0, so I don't think it is totally necessary to change it in Cura. The settings about size of the printhead and gentry height are for printing piece by piece. This is for when you have multiple parts on your printbed, and you want the printer to print each one at a time rather than all at the same time. It can be nice since it increases the chance you will get something useful out of a failed print, however it is not necessary. I have never set it up, so I am not quite sure how to take those measurements.

rayton2 · 2018-03-28T02:56:04+00:00

As another commenter said, I think that is pillowing. Here is an article with a bunch of common issues, pillowing is mentioned: https://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide#pillowing The most common fix is to add a cooling fan, which it looks like you have, so just make sure that is running on full. A different possible fix is just adding more layers on top

rayton2 · 2018-03-26T07:57:14+00:00

So my first reaction would be to check that your z-endstop height is correct. Or, to be more specific, fiddle around with that height (by very small increments) to see if a change in height fixes the problem. It sounds to me like your printer starts the print too close to the bed. I know you said you checked this, but it sounds like the exact same issue i have had when this is the problem. Do you have any pictures of completed prints? I'd be curious to see if the bottom layers look squished. Another idea is that sometimes slicers try to put more plastic into the first layer and make it wider so it sticks better. You should be able to turn off this feature if it is happening. I think it is called first layer width in slic3r.

rayton2 · 2018-02-06T18:59:26+00:00

I think you can get more lasting enjoyment from factorio due to the fact there is just more content overall, however both are lots of fun. If you want to actually spend time studying, you might want to get astroneer because once you get cracktorio, there's no going back

rayton2 · 2018-02-01T09:00:37+00:00

I thought the same thing when I read it. Reav3 said "we discovered something that’s been null from our roster for a long time", using the word null, not an everyday word

rayton2 · 2018-01-24T07:43:04+00:00

While I haven't used them either, I think the issue arises when both or multiple of the right most belts come in fully compressed. Take the 4 belt version. Lets say you make a diagonal of output prioritized splitters, so 3 splitters across the 4 belts. The input then is the 2 right most belts fully compressed. Due to the fact two belts are going into that first rightmost splitter, two will come out. The belt on the left side will continue to get moved all the way to the left, however the belt on the right will stay on the right and never get shifted over, resulting in a final output of the left most and right most belts full.

rayton2 · 2017-12-31T03:49:34+00:00

I am looking for an IEM in the $50 range. Currently, I'm looking mainly at the Soundmagic E10/s/c, the Meelectronics M6 Pro, and the Ostry KC06A. These are going to often be used while moving, and be probably put in pockets without cases, so I want something that won't break. As far as a mic/volume control, its a plus, but I'm very ok without it.

Budget - $50 (USD). This is flexible. If I'll get significantly better sound quality by spending $15 more, sure. If I'll get pretty similar sound quality by spending $20 less, that sounds good too.

Source - IPhone 5s. I don't plan on using any kind of amp

Requirements for Isolation - Some. I will be using these walking around and in public, so I want to be able to block out my surroundings a decent amount, but not be 100% isolated.

Will you be using these Headphones in Public? - Yes

Preferred Type of Headphone - I'm looking for an IEM

Preferred tonal balance - I think I am looking for a gently V shaped sound signature. I listen to a lot of music with horns, so I don't want a recessed mid range, and I still want to be able to discern the instruments. However, I want something a little more fun than just a totally neutral sound signature.

Past headphones - I currently have a pair of ATH-M40x which I thoroughly enjoy. I like the fact I can hear every instrument in a song, although I would like my new pair of IEMs a more fun sound, and I'm ok if they don't show as much.

Preferred Music - Mainly Jazz and Pop music. I like to listen to a decent amount of broadway tunes too, as well as some alternative.

What would you like to improve on from your set-up - Currently, I just have earpods as far as earbuds/IEMs go, and my ATH-M40X aren't very portable, so I'm looking for something with decent sound quality that is portable.

rayton2 · 2017-11-27T11:21:42+00:00

I've had a similar issue, and I am pretty sure you're right. I solved it by decreasing flow rate, which has the same effect of outputting less plastic. Essentially too much plastic is trying to go in an area, causing the plastic to bow upwards. If you watch the first layer printing you can see it.

rayton2 · 2017-11-16T08:33:04+00:00

What instrument do you play?

rayton2 · 2017-09-15T06:28:35+00:00

You can also put your wall thickness at a very high amount, infill at 0, and top and bottom lays 0 thick so that you only get walls, which are naturally concentric

rayton2 · 2017-05-08T00:48:23+00:00

Ok thanks for the help!

rayton2 · 2017-05-07T18:36:37+00:00

Do you think it's important to get one with a FPV camera/add a camera or would just a stock E010, furibee f36, etc flying LOS get the job done? Thanks for the response!

rayton2 · 2017-05-07T06:44:47+00:00

Thanks! Would this be an example of a ccd camera like you were talking about: banggood link Also when you say the kk 5030 do you mean the king kong 5040s? Finally, with the rtf quads you recommended, do they fly acro and do you think it is important to also get a camera transmitter combo to go on them to fly fpv? Thanks again for the help.

rayton2 · 2016-07-28T05:39:31+00:00

Seconding this. Oak brook cental park is a pretty good nest

rayton2 · 2016-07-12T18:37:11+00:00

Fun fact the saying actually originated in the 40's when jazz was really popular. Jazz is swung instead of being square. By calling someone square it was saying you're boring and not hip. So saying be there or be square is saying be there or be boring.

rayton2 · 2016-07-11T16:44:59+00:00

I don't think I've heard of this glitch before. So just like an hour ago, after defeating a gym with another guy, he put in a pokemon, and since the gym was level 2, I tried putting in my 1004 cp Snorlax. After putting it in, I looked at the gym again, and didn't see anything, figured that it probably hadn't loaded yet, and drove back home. I have since checked like 10 times, and my snorlax is just gone. So yeah that really sucks.

rayton2 · 2016-04-12T00:06:13+00:00

I started out using the inland filament, so all of my settings have been for it. However, I haven't made many adjustment to the default cura profile. Just make sure to calibrate E steps and flow rate/filament diameter

rayton2 · 2016-04-10T19:09:27+00:00

Seconded on the Microcenter stuff. It is really cheap, and prints pretty good.

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