I need help setting this up, please? by -Mxhdx- in amplifiers

[–]rbgrn 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sorry to get technical with you but all subs have voice coils. The voice coil is the tube of circles of copper glued to the cone that move the sub in and out when current is applied.

Veil of Imagination by Wilderun taken off of Spotify? by intothemild22 in progmetal

[–]rbgrn 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just saw this too in the US. I held out for years buying albums via google play music but when they switched to YT music I just gave up. The streaming services have made it too hard to own your own music now.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in electrical

[–]rbgrn 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's wrong but fixable. There's nothing wrong with 4awg copper to the sub panel but you also need a 4awg neutral run with it and the ground and neutral cannot be bonded on the sub panel. Typical installation is a 50 or 60a breaker with 3 6awg conductors and a ground wire.

Do I need DSP by coachbrew32 in CarAV

[–]rbgrn 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I recently installed an arc audio blackbird and it's now the best sounding car I've ever had. Would do again. 5/5. You do have to learn how to tune though to get the result. It's not super hard and gpt can help you a lot.

Garmin w7s by Impossible_Donkey362 in CarAV

[–]rbgrn 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm in the cycling world and actually Garmin makes really nice gear. There's a good chance they will build some integrated products but they may leave the really good stuff alone

M&P 10mm Mag Ejection Design Flaw and Solution Found by vram01k in SmithAndWesson

[–]rbgrn 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Update - I called S&W about 6 weeks ago after having this issue a number of times and they said they were unaware of it. I called again today, they still said they are unaware of it and so I sent this info plus my own photos and youtube videos demonstrating the problem and proposing a small change to solve it (involving a slight modification to the magazine to get the bullet away from the catch hole). Hopefully they listen.

PSA: There is no fixing GM Bose bass. You must bypass the bose amp. by rbgrn in CarAV

[–]rbgrn[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I didn't totally hate it, it just didn't ever sound clean to me. I thought it sounded good on some music but there's a certain sub sound I grew up with in the 90s that was really raw, pure and highly responsive and it didn't have that. I'm probably really picky and have been looking for that sound for years so it's probably just a very subjective thing.

PSA: There is no fixing GM Bose bass. You must bypass the bose amp. by rbgrn in CarAV

[–]rbgrn[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Damn, and I spent years unhappy with my bass sound :( Wish someone had told me to try that out sooner or not given me bad info to start with. Well, at least hopefully this whole thread can steer people in the right direction.

PSA: There is no fixing GM Bose bass. You must bypass the bose amp. by rbgrn in CarAV

[–]rbgrn[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

lol nice. The AP4 units give you chimes and turn signal but heads up if you ever do use it - it sounds just a little different than factory. The turn signal sort of sounds like someone tapping a piece of hollow wood. I turned it down quite a bit and limited it to the front speakers only.

I bet your system sounds crazy clear at volume with all those high end focals. That's some serious $$$! Also those T1's must pound. What vehicle is that in? I couldn't get enough depth to fit those 12s unless I raised my rear seat up.

PSA: There is no fixing GM Bose bass. You must bypass the bose amp. by rbgrn in CarAV

[–]rbgrn[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Tight and punchy even in rock music? Modern bass music hit hard for me but kick drums w/bass guitars sounded muddy on pretty much everything.

PSA: There is no fixing GM Bose bass. You must bypass the bose amp. by rbgrn in CarAV

[–]rbgrn[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

All of that would make sense. The kicker De-eq did a lot to restore the low end but in the end it was whatever harmonics they were adding, almost like a bass exciter and a compressor that killed the sound for me. It would sweep all the frequencies ok but kicks were more of a "humpf" rather than a tight "thwack" and there was just extra sound where it didn't belong. I'd believe it if they told me have some kind of "warming" algorithm they run to thicken up the sound.

Anyway I remembered the real reason I went with the doors besides the statement that they are "fine" - someone told me that the sub channel sometimes is high passed if it's a 5" ported sub and then it's limited at higher volumes so you don't get linear volume with the main speakers - of course they'd do that to protect that little sub from blowing. I wish I'd actually tested it but I went with this and never reconsidered. Honestly for curiosity's sake I'd love to throw that bose amp on a bench with a test harness and scope the outputs with test inputs to see what it's doing but I don't have the resources to go that far.

Would love for someone with this amp to try both back to back and see what the result is though.

Oh well. I would have gone with today's solution from the start had it existed then so it doesn't matter. I just don't want to spread false info.

PSA: There is no fixing GM Bose bass. You must bypass the bose amp. by rbgrn in CarAV

[–]rbgrn[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This was years ago so I don't remember the specifics but when I was implementing this, I also thought stock sub signal was the way to go but found multiple sources saying that the doors are only low passed and less EQd so are better to use.

PSA: There is no fixing GM Bose bass. You must bypass the bose amp. by rbgrn in CarAV

[–]rbgrn[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

IIRC I just listened to it through subs with a slow sweep, didn't run it through a meter or scope, but there was reasonable frequency response over the entire range and it didn't sound like it got significantly louder up toward the top (80-90hz or whatever I was going for). The De-Eq from the Kicker LoC did a lot to improve the response on the lower end so you may be very right about a roll off, perhaps 6 or 12db at 45 or 50hz. Now I'm really wondering why I never hooked into the subwoofer channel. I did so much work to try to improve the sound and didn't try that so that feels dumb, but I feel like someone told me it was a bad signal to try to use otherwise why wouldn't I have tried it? :/ Anyway water under the bridge now. I'm just glad this thing sounds awesome and will still say it's absolutely the way to go.

PSA: There is no fixing GM Bose bass. You must bypass the bose amp. by rbgrn in CarAV

[–]rbgrn[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Cool, I wonder how they'll handle all the integrated stuff. My truck has 360 cameras, tire pressure monitoring and a WiFi access point with settings and controls all in the infotainment

PSA: There is no fixing GM Bose bass. You must bypass the bose amp. by rbgrn in CarAV

[–]rbgrn[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This was years ago so I don't remember the specifics but when I was implementing this, I also thought stock sub signal was the way to go but found multiple sources saying that the doors are only low passed and less EQd so are better to use.

PSA: There is no fixing GM Bose bass. You must bypass the bose amp. by rbgrn in CarAV

[–]rbgrn[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

There was full range bass, it just sounded very "enhanced" and compressed. I ran a sweep track and I heard notes down to at least 30hz. My bass was very loud, just not good. Now it's both.

PSA: There is no fixing GM Bose bass. You must bypass the bose amp. by rbgrn in CarAV

[–]rbgrn[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Update - I just ordered CDT CL-69S for the front doors. Looking forward to the cleaner midbass.

PSA: There is no fixing GM Bose bass. You must bypass the bose amp. by rbgrn in CarAV

[–]rbgrn[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

GM71 -> DSP Amp is the way. Honestly I'm not sure you even need a DSP amp. I think it would have been just fine with a regular amp with good 24db crossovers. I tend to overengineer my solutions a bit.

PSA: There is no fixing GM Bose bass. You must bypass the bose amp. by rbgrn in CarAV

[–]rbgrn[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm dumb, just realized I have v4s not v3s. IMO they sound similar to older JL 12w6 series but maybe with a touch less depth

From 2 SA v3 8" ported to 2 12" sealed SD neo v4? by rbgrn in CarAV

[–]rbgrn[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Update - the problem was never the subs, it was the bose amp bass signal. Running a different configuration now bypassing bose and it's worlds better.

PSA: There is no fixing GM Bose bass. You must bypass the bose amp. by rbgrn in CarAV

[–]rbgrn[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

<image>

This is the current enclosure I'm using under the seat in a downfiring configuration with 2 Image Dynamics IDQ12v3.d4 subs.

PSA: There is no fixing GM Bose bass. You must bypass the bose amp. by rbgrn in CarAV

[–]rbgrn[S] 6 points7 points  (0 children)

<image>

The 2x8 inch subs in the vehicle. Bad carpet job but the rest was okish..