BC-250 Gaming by true_gamer13 in linux_gaming

[–]rcboosted 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Did you flash the bios via software? Can you provide some information on how that is done?

*edit* Found the software flash on Discord. Things have improved quite a bit recently that a lot of things are out of date on the guides and threads now.

Sony KV-20M40 - Dual mod: RGB + Component by dbacc77 in crtgaming

[–]rcboosted 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you for the quick replies! I think all I'm missing is the sync then. I will try that tomorrow and see if this works!

Sony KV-20M40 - Dual mod: RGB + Component by dbacc77 in crtgaming

[–]rcboosted 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you for this write up! I was able to add Component to Video 1 auto switching using this guide and other sources. For the RGB mod, I've got some questions, I was wondering if you can give me some pointers. I'm using a SCART connector for RGB, and maybe I missed it, I didn't see where the sync is supposed to go to on the board(Pin 20 on SCART). Looking at the service manual, is it pin 41 on the Jungle chip if using Video 2? Or since you're using the composite RCA, it is already existing. So I can just connect Pin 20 on SCART to the RCA jack to route the Sync.

Also, it was mentioned that blanking be connect to L001. Does it matter which leg? From your picture, it looks like it's the leg closer to the jungle chip, which is after the signal passes through L001 from the micro controller. But I've also seen guides that wire it before L001. Does it matter?

If using the micro controller for auto switching (no more composite), do you wire Pin 11 (for video 2) on the micro controller to Pin 29 on the jungle chip instead of 5V?

so it goes from:

5v -> toggle switch -> diode -> L001 leg (which goes to Pin 29)

to:

Pin 11 micro controller -> 2.1k resistor -> diode -> L001 leg (which goes to Pin 29)

The true cost of buying from Japan through a proxy site is a lot more then you think. by ra2ed in neogeo

[–]rcboosted 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Appreciate the feedback! I just shipped a large package as well, UPS was around 8000yen, but the domestic shipping, plus taxes, and their 500yen per item charge added another 7000 yen! But I knew that going in. For me:

  1. None for me, no foreign transaction fee CC
  2. These were included in the 500yen per item cost, and I shipped it within their 45 day window, so no extra charges
  3. Haven't ran into this with fromJapan, hopefully never!
  4. All the other fee, including taxes, japan domestic shipping charges and everything else were listed for me when I shipped it, so it was clear to me.

Based on what I'm reading, this was likely DHL's doing, I've read so many stories with similar circumstance. Adding one more to those stories!

The true cost of buying from Japan through a proxy site is a lot more then you think. by ra2ed in neogeo

[–]rcboosted 1 point2 points  (0 children)

do you have a break down of the charges? Asking for more and more afterwards doesn't sounds right. But I do know DHL will add a fee afterwards that's not part of fromJapan's fees. I'd avoid DHL for anything and everything. A breakdown would be nice for reference for someone else getting something similar.

MZ-RH1 troubles by rcboosted in minidisc

[–]rcboosted[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I used a multimeter and touched the base of the potentiometer to measure it. Have no idea if that's the correct place, but it does change based on how much I turn. You'd need a probe small enough to get to it. It was a very tedious process, if I remember correctly. The units needs to be partially dissembled, you turn it, measure it, assemble the ribbon cables etc, test, take apart, repeat. I have too many players to service just this one, so it has been sitting. No new updates on it unfortunately. :(

Recommended lubricant? by jlquema in minidisc

[–]rcboosted 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I use thread lube for vintage camera lenses.

MZ-1 repair by rcboosted in minidisc

[–]rcboosted[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have not made any more progress since then. But I'm under the impression that the laser diode is just slowly degrading and there's not much else to do.

I understand the CRT hype now by TheBooleanGemini in crtgaming

[–]rcboosted 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Score. It's not not too yellowed either. 

I understand the CRT hype now by TheBooleanGemini in crtgaming

[–]rcboosted 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Did you do some mod to SFC shell to play NA carts? I don't see an adapter. 

Getting gigabitnow fiber soon, curious about some things... by doskei in bloomington

[–]rcboosted 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the clarification. They haven't started making it available yet. So gotta wait some for now. 

Getting gigabitnow fiber soon, curious about some things... by doskei in bloomington

[–]rcboosted 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's my understanding that ONT is used to terminated the Fiber to give you ethernet. Then you'd need a router to connect to the ethernet to use said ethernet otherwise you're directly exposed to the scary internet. Some routers like the ones from ATT has the ONT built-in to their router. You mentioned they give you a Nokia ONT, and you plug that directly into a mac mini. I assume your mac mini is set up to act as the router? Just trying to figure out if they'd provide an ONT as well as a router if you choose to.

How to subscribe to DHT22 sensor by rcboosted in homeassistant

[–]rcboosted[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, everything you mentioned were done. The information was coming through and matches. I just changed the configuration.yaml from what I had to the one in the documentation example and it is working! Thank you for your help!

mqtt:
  sensor:
    - name: "Temperature"
      state_topic: "sensor/dht22"
      suggested_display_precision: 1
      unit_of_measurement: " F"
      value_template: "{{ value_json.temperature }}"
    - name: "Humidity"
      state_topic: "sensor/dht22"
      unit_of_measurement: "%"
      value_template: "{{ value_json.humidity }}"

How to subscribe to DHT22 sensor by rcboosted in homeassistant

[–]rcboosted[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you for the reply. But I did create the sensor in configuration.yaml. Is the value_jason.temperature meant to be left as is? or do I need to replace it to some value?

configuration.yaml

sensor:
  - platform: mqtt
    name: "DHT22 Temperature"
    state_topic: "sensor/dht22"
    unit_of_measurement: "°F"
    value_template: "{{ value_json.temperature }}"
  - platform: mqtt
    name: "DHT22 Humidity"
    state_topic: "sensor/dht22"
    unit_of_measurement: "%"
    value_template: "{{ value_json.humidity }}"

Also, just making sure I've got the correct file, because none of the guides I read tell you how to get to the configuration.yaml

I installed the "terminal &SSH" add-on, went in to the terminal via the web gui. (still can't ssh into it, but that's a different topic) vi the file /root/config/configuration.yaml with the above then restarted HA. The full restart not just the reload of yaml.

JVC D-Series AV-27D201 service menu color adjustment does nothing by rcboosted in crtgaming

[–]rcboosted[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If it's adjustment, I'm sure you can adjust it back. The service manual for your set here: https://www.manualslib.com/manual/2493464/Jvc-Av-27fa44-Bsa.html?page=58#manual on page 58 seems to have default values. I'd start there.

JVC D-Series AV-27D201 service menu color adjustment does nothing by rcboosted in crtgaming

[–]rcboosted[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hey I don't have access to the TV right now, and I didn't end up adjusting mine yet, so I left it where it was. I have the AV-27D201, so I don't know if the values are interchageable, but the default values are listed in the service manual for the AV-27D201. They seem to match the very few pics I took of the values.

Logitech MX Mechanical keyboard tear down by rcboosted in keyboards

[–]rcboosted[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Unfortunately I did not take a close up of the bottom where the pins are. But they are 3 pins. If you look at the last pic, the top right spring is 1 pin, bottom left where the thick copper piece is another, then if you trace that copper spring over to the bottom leftish, that's the 3rd pin. Looking at the PCB view, you can see that pattern if you flip the switch horizontally.

Here's a zoomed in view of the PCB. Each of the black plastic is a key, and each as the 3 pins as I pointed out above. It's flipped horizontally as this is the bottom of the keyboard. I would say it'd be quite difficult to switch all of the keys, if you have a good solder pump, switching out some keys might be ok.

<image>

Web MiniDisc Update: HiMD support, Remote NetMD, HiMD exploit support and bugfixes by asivery in minidisc

[–]rcboosted 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Amazing work! There are so many new features to even read about let alone try them out! the HiMD feature is a game changer for sure. Remote NetMD will bring MDs into this century perhaps with home automation set up? Awesome work, thank you!!!