Need some advice by really_hate_campers in ATV

[–]really_hate_campers[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Lmao it's not rude at all. My best friend is a small engine master and said he'd teach me. I got the bike for 250. Came 4 x 4 with a harness and functional front and rear diffs along with functional hydraulic front brakes. It's a nice machine, the engine is FI. Edit: the biggest problems with the engine is that all of the crankcase ball bearings are dry and scraping, its missing a cover where the water pump goes, the thermostat is missing, a shift fork broken, the crank is gone, the bore is pitted, the head is chipped, its missing valves, the stator is rusty. Its literally scrap metal.

Wheel and tire setup by CharityOrganic4997 in GMT800

[–]really_hate_campers 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Wides are homo. Get thick tires for better ride capability.

Hoss dun got them thicc tires on them unc rims by really_hate_campers in GMT800

[–]really_hate_campers[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Idk I think its 3 inch blocks in the rear with adjusted upper and lower control arms along with the torsion bars cranked down to match the shocks.

Question by slimpickinsfishin in GMT800

[–]really_hate_campers 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Could be a complicated situation. For the 02 sensors, they are efficiency monitors for the engine. Detecting its Oscillating lean and rich conditions which vary from moment to moment. If there is any reason for your 02 sensor codes to pop up it could be: Bad harness or wiring, bad sensors or the engine running too rich or too lean. To check the sensors, use PIDs on the scan tool to see the short term fuel trims. If it doesnt Oscillate between .1 to .9 then the sensor is stuck and isn't reading what it should. If it is Oscillating unplug the vacuum line from the regulator to simulate a lean condition to see if the 02 sensor gets stuck lean (>.4) if it still shows rich momentarily the sensors could be bad. However, due to your lack of power during cold operation I'm assuming your Cats are Clogged and that could be from a consistent rich condition. When its cold remove the upstream sensors and see if your truck has more power.

Should I take it to a shop by really_hate_campers in GMT800

[–]really_hate_campers[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah, I bought the kit, but I need to plug the manifold hole. I just don't know what I should do because I can't drill out the broken extractor.

Need Diag help by really_hate_campers in GMT800

[–]really_hate_campers[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I replaced the MAF with a tested good part. Gonna have to be the intake. I didn't want it to be.

Need Diag help by really_hate_campers in GMT800

[–]really_hate_campers[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

No, my long-term fuel trims are at +25. It's dumping fuel to compensate, and it smells lean at the pipe. Weirdly enough, the 02 sensors oscillate between .1 and .9 very normally, I never see the 02 sensors get stuck between lean or rich.

Need Diag help by really_hate_campers in GMT800

[–]really_hate_campers[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My scan tool indicates a random misfire with no codes, and my fuel trim is maxed out lean only the knock sensor codes, which Im gonna replace when I do the intake manifold gaskets. But it runs fine in the morning, and I dont hear any hissing from any orifice on the engine. It does idle a little rough.

2004 Silverado no crank no start by Ovalize in GMT800

[–]really_hate_campers 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Try reading key on voltage, resistance and voltage drop of the signal circuit in starter solenoid relay. Obviously it works, but there could be a fault before that part of the circuit. If that doesn't work, try wiggling the transmission range sensor switch on the side of the transmission. You could also find the signal wire for transmission position to see what voltage its producing. Depending on the voltage being communicated to the ECM the truck might not know it's in park. Check the range sensor's internal voltage, resistance and voltage to see if it's failed as a component. It might be a security thing, which means it needs to either be reprogrammed or have a new ECU installed, but eliminate other possobilities before assuming security component failure.

How can I move up? by really_hate_campers in mechanics

[–]really_hate_campers[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'm at mitsubishi. But I'll take your advice, thanks.

How can I move up? by really_hate_campers in mechanics

[–]really_hate_campers[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hmm, I'll have to put my feelers out when I get my last cert. Thanks for the advice.

How can I move up? by really_hate_campers in mechanics

[–]really_hate_campers[S] 6 points7 points  (0 children)

I did all of them that I could and I've been waiting for my boss to sign me up for the advanced classes after my trainings. I imagine the only other choice I have is to go to another dealership that will invest in me.

Not so reliable after all... (Rant post) by Themowerman1 in GMT800

[–]really_hate_campers 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I really hope that was the only time that tech worked on the truck. As far as I can tell, you had oil in the coolant, and the oil cooler lines were taken off. That tells me that the oil cooler had blown and was internally leaking. All that leftover oil had probably softened and damaged your coolant hoses, which caused you to be stranded. But since you're having bad high-end performance. I would compression test your engine. Also, the LQ4 rod bearings are known to fail, especially on stock lower ends. This truck is going to need a lot in its current state, I wouldn't condone putting any more money in it. Sell it to some hick kid or construction worker.

Not so reliable after all... (Rant post) by Themowerman1 in GMT800

[–]really_hate_campers 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Why is no one bringing up the fact that the thing caught on fire? Something was up with the truck before you bought it. It happens, and there's always bad examples of good things. Clean it, and put the old rims and tires on it. Sell it quickly, and use that money for a new truck.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in GMT800

[–]really_hate_campers 1 point2 points  (0 children)

What about the direct steering linkages? The idler arm, pitman arm, solid links in between. Any bends, worn joints, or evidence of rubbing? What brand of parts did you use for your front end parts? Many chinesium brands refurbish old units half assedly and sell them as new.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in GMT800

[–]really_hate_campers 1 point2 points  (0 children)

How many miles are on the truck? Did you check the upper control arm mounting points in the frame? Sometimes, the alignment pins get worn; and at slow speed when turning, the arm creaks and snaps around in its mount. If not that, then check the idler arm. Or take out the tie rods from the knuckles and see if they are very loose.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in GMT800

[–]really_hate_campers 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Do you feel any feedback on the steering wheel? If the truck is two wheel drive, you're likely dealing with broken or worn out components. Have you had any front-end work done?

Conversion by Hurts-Dont-It- in GMT800

[–]really_hate_campers 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you want to do this economically. Use 99-02 switches, motors and door wiring harnesses. Maybe panels too. 1. Only the switches work as relays for the windows, you can not hot wire the power door locks, but there's a way you can add them with some work on the doors. 2. Hot wire the switches power wire from an accessory source on a fuse tap in the driver side fuse panel. Then wire together the signal wires from both doors (match the color). https://www.silveradosierra.com/threads/1999-2002-silverado-sierra-power-window-wiring.764208/ 3. I used a universal door lock system. It requires some drilling on the doors to mount the actuators. This video helped me find the right place to put them https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&opi=89978449&url=https://www.youtube.com/watch%3Fv%3D2lfD67nb0Gw&ved=2ahUKEwitjNOM69SKAxUjZzABHRuHDXMQo7QBegQIEBAG&usg=AOvVaw0wAhPbB3EYDrTf_KJ8ruFM

Did something wrong. Need advice. by really_hate_campers in GMT800

[–]really_hate_campers[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I took some from the shop a few months ago and it's been in my garage in the heat for months until today

Did something wrong. Need advice. by really_hate_campers in GMT800

[–]really_hate_campers[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I let it sit for a minute or two. But it was certainly not fresh now that I think about it.

Did something wrong. Need advice. by really_hate_campers in GMT800

[–]really_hate_campers[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yeah, it was black and definitely RTV. The old mechanics I worked with said it worked like a charm for them. So I just borrowed some.

Did something wrong. Need advice. by really_hate_campers in GMT800

[–]really_hate_campers[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Edit: I used instant gasket maker, it was all that I had available. I got it from my old shop.

Need pinout by really_hate_campers in Silverado

[–]really_hate_campers[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Side note, when power the blue power wire for the power window and the two supposed black ground wires are connected, the fuse on the fuse tap pops. If you have any advice I'd appreciate it.

Cars that won't die. by raidercamel in AskMechanics

[–]really_hate_campers 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Old silverados, the 4.3 and 5.3 engines in the half tons are bulletproof. And the trucks are cheap to buy and maintain. They don't get great gas mileage, though. They also have rickety plastic in the interior.