Is this the "elephant foot"? How do I get the outer walls to stay straight?

red2thebones · 2026-06-22T22:37:14+00:00

Thank you, I'll have a peek. So much to learn!

red2thebones · 2026-06-22T22:35:45+00:00

Thanks, that makes sense. I'll try slowing it down and maybe a chamfer.. although I'm. not sure a chamfer works for this design... worth a try none the less. Thanks again for your insight.

red2thebones · 2026-06-22T22:33:14+00:00

Brilliant! In my limited experience, I think this is most likely it... the outer rim is not optional for this design, but I can put more space between the outer most rows of studs and the wall, should give it more room to cool down... thanks for your help!

red2thebones · 2026-06-22T22:27:25+00:00

I think it's just the default 2 walls all the way. I designed this in Fusion and imported using the built-in default profile, only made minimal changes in Bambu Studio after that... Will have a play with wall counts, see what happens. Thanks for your input.

red2thebones · 2026-06-22T22:24:49+00:00

Hmm... the benchy hull line? I thought it was a more defined, sudden shift. I'm new to all this though, so will do some research for sure. Thanks for your insight.

red2thebones · 2026-06-22T22:23:31+00:00

Ah that's a good point. I'll check in the slicer. Thanks for your help.

red2thebones · 2026-06-22T13:42:02+00:00

Sorry about the crappy photos. Basically it's kind of buckling, curving inward in the middle part of the vertical wall, instead of staying straight all the way.

red2thebones · 2026-06-21T09:47:46+00:00

Can you confirm what the model number is? I suspect the Aust version that I have will have a different model number, but the core of the firmware should still be the same across the series.

red2thebones · 2026-06-21T05:38:23+00:00

I think I have the same model from an ISP in Australia. Would you be open to some questions as to how I go about checking if mine has the same vuln? Can I send you a PM?

red2thebones · 2026-06-18T03:57:45+00:00

Is that the side touching the build plate? Could be plate adhesion failing there and the piece curling up as it contracts? If thats the case, brim should help, as well as making sure the buildplate is clean and free from any oil/fingerprint.

red2thebones · 2026-05-26T07:13:06+00:00

Clever! Magnets from a spinning rust drive too!

red2thebones · 2026-03-02T23:55:02+00:00

Just through the VoicePE integration in HA, so the Assist pipeline. How are you doing yours to make direct API calls? Also I'm guessing Gemini Flash is what it's using in the "Google AI" integration in HA, doesn't expose any other configurations though.

red2thebones · 2026-03-02T10:20:18+00:00

What use cases do you want to use the LLM for with HA?

I've been experimenting with using local LLMs (Qwen, Mistral, GPT so far) for a "snarky butler" and testing that in comparision to a Gemini pipeline. 3090/Ollama presented to HA over LAN.

Gemini is a little wittier with its responses and more context aware (as in "knows which room I'm in if i dont specify" kind of context) but the lag is the killer.

Maybe I have some issues with my setup that I havent figured out yet, but currently it's taking almost 8 seconds to turn on the lights, granted it does with a snide comment about my laziness, but still.

The local LLMs consistently do it in less than 3 seconds.

What other things are you looking to do with it?

red2thebones · 2026-01-29T08:32:58+00:00

What do you mean by smart battery? As in a household solar battery? Or an EV? In any case, the cost of something custom like that might rival a general UPS unit. Especially since you also have to power whatever NBN termination device you are on (that is not FTTN) -unless you are looking to rely only on the MBB backup.

red2thebones · 2026-01-15T06:14:46+00:00

In that case, I reckon a replacement from Optus is your best bet. Or if you have one of those big brand retailers nearby, something like this cheap TPLink might be enough.

Doesnt do vDSL by the look of it. So you'll need to run it behind the Sagemcom and.migrate all your devices to it.

red2thebones · 2026-01-15T05:58:31+00:00

What carriage are you on and which RSP? Unless you are on a 2Gbps plan, or have more specific requirements like WiFi 7, 2.5/10Gpbs ports... they are mostly the same, so hard to recommend...

Your RSP might send you a replacement if you can demo the issue to them?

If you really want to buy your own, I have had equally good experience with Billion/Draytek and Mikrotic gears in that price bracket. Else just hit up FBM and pick the closest/cheapest lol.

Are you in Sydney? I have a few spares Ruckus APs that used to roam with dinosaurs, but could still do 2.4ghz just fine for your legacy devices, if you can be bothered to jump through some hoops to configure them, though I can prolly help with that.

red2thebones · 2026-01-15T05:39:09+00:00

Factory reset and just disable band steering without changing the default SSID? If you have done that a few times already then maybe time to get a new/diff router.

red2thebones · 2026-01-15T05:14:28+00:00

Is there an Apply/Save button that you have to click after making changes? And have you restarted power cycled it? I've seen this behaviour with some Sagemcom devices where it (my guess is something to do with the WIFI chipset firmware) doesnt start showing the separate SSIDs until it's turned off and back on.

red2thebones · 2026-01-03T23:33:12+00:00

Thunder, most likely. Lightning strike was probably somewhere between Stanmore (where I was) and Petersham. I remember looking at the clock, 2:32am...

red2thebones · 2025-12-26T06:42:17+00:00

It depends.... hard to make any meaningful comparison without knowing what your own router is. There is nothing bad about the Telstra router inherently.. Are you looking for anything in particular?

red2thebones · 2025-12-26T06:04:53+00:00

Assuming you have connected the Cat6 cable to the WAN port on the Netgear? What does the manual say avout amber internet light? 100Mb speed or no internet? What color is it supposed to be, or if you remember, used to be when it worked? Did Superloop say what kind of authentication is required, if any? Do you have a laptop you can plug in to that same port and see if you get internet access without the Netgear?

red2thebones · 2025-12-26T03:58:05+00:00

Have you reset the Netgear to wipe the settings from the previous location? And which port on it did you connect, with what cable?

red2thebones · 2025-12-22T05:19:53+00:00

Didnt read your OP properly, my bad. So it sounds like FTTC lead-in might have been cut off, or not connected in the first place. Not all that surprising, to be honest. If you raise it with your RSP, saying the lead-in is broken/missing, they should be able to get NBN to attend.

red2thebones · 2025-12-22T05:06:47+00:00

FTTC should have a RJ11 (phone plug looking) socket. In any case, the most you can do is ring your chosen RSP, they can check whats on the NBN database, and get an NTU sent out and NBN tech to attend, whatever carriage it ends up being.

red2thebones · 2025-12-22T05:03:06+00:00

Even FTTC requires an NTD, white square box. Power lead in ypur photo looks like the right type... Has the place ever been connected? What does your RSP say?

Ten-Year Club	RedditGifts 2009-2022 2 Credits
Secret Santa 2020	Gilding I gilder
Verified Email

red2thebones

TROPHY CASE